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Thread: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Lorton, VA
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    884

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    Which is more rare? An Acme hardtop for a pre-76 CJ5 or a windshield frame? You can buy reproduction windshield frames. You can also cut off the soft top channel and make it removable for use with a soft top. But I have seen precious few Acme tops for an early CJ5. I know which one I'd rather cut.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    exploring the woods of Maine
    Posts
    1,259

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    The difficult is no problem..............The impossible just takes a little longer
    ........I didn't get a Jeep to go fast..........
    74 with a glass tub , 8274 winch and the right combination of wheelbase, width. line and nuts.
    76 cj7 all glass the loving brides ride, and a handful of parts rigs

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Middletown, DE
    Posts
    22

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    TahoeJarrett, here's how I plan to mount my body side door hinges


    Then I'll move the top hinge on the door down. I want to repair the fiberglass on the door anyhow, so patching the old holes and drilling newer lower mounting holes isn't a big deal. This will allow me to run a bestop supertop with bestop soft doors in the summer months, as I'll be using their instructions to locate the hinges on the body. I believe the top hinge is 5 inches down from the cowl, and the bottom hinge is 15 inches down from the cowl.

    I think the original solution from ACME was to remove the lower bolt on the windshield hinge and attache the door hinge there, drilling a hole for the upper hole in the door hinge. I found this example of a nice fitting top on a pre 76 CJ showing the upper door hinge on top of the windshield hinge.


    Also, as you can see, this top is sitting very nicely on the Jeep with the windshield soft top channel still intact.



    The top sits flush with the body tub, and the door gaps look uniform. I'd love to get my top to fit like that!

    TahoeJarrett do you have any pictures of your Jeep with the top on it? Examples of how good / bad the fitment is?

    As far as removing the windshield soft top channel, I'd really rather not. There are a few good examples of Jeeps showing the pre 76 ACME top fitting very nicely with the channel intact. This is really how I'd like to get my top to fit. I would really love to see how the top sits on the windshield from the interior. It appears to be molded inside so the top can sit flush on the top of the windshield frame. This would require the top to sit down lower though, either by removing the channel, or trimming the top. If anyone has pictures showing the inside view that would be awesome!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    24

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    No pics showing the Acme sitting on the Jeep. I did have similar issues you pointed out in the first post. I thought one could buy a second windshield and remove the channel. Then when you convert to the Acme, switch out the windshield. Just a thought. Nice pic. Hope mine will have similar fit when I get to messing with the Acme. Currently running a soft top.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    280

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    How about turning the top upside down on something soft and trying to fit the loose windshield to it without trying to juggle the pieces.
    It might show where the conflict is. I wouldn't think you should need to cut the top or channel based on the pictures.
    I would try several times before breaking out the grinder.

    On my mongrel Postal top, I undo the hinges from the tub and get the top centered, then line up the bolts and snug them down.

    Regarding moving the upper door hinge down, I like the idea of matching it to the soft top hinges.
    Might want to add a sheet metal backer from where it is, to where you want it. Certainly ACME put it high for a reason, leverage comes to mind.
    Last edited by Mr. Gangrene Jeans; 11-02-2012 at 02:30 PM. Reason: additional comment
    1969 DJ-5A Universal Dispatcher 100
    153cid/NP542/3.73 Dana 44

    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
    and I took the one less traveled by > Robert Frost

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Medford Mass USA
    Posts
    15,077

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    Quote Originally Posted by ApexWrangler View Post
    TahoeJarrett, here's how I plan to mount my body side door hinges


    Then I'll move the top hinge on the door down. I want to repair the fiberglass on the door anyhow, so patching the old holes and drilling newer lower mounting holes isn't a big deal. This will allow me to run a bestop supertop with bestop soft doors in the summer months, as I'll be using their instructions to locate the hinges on the body. I believe the top hinge is 5 inches down from the cowl, and the bottom hinge is 15 inches down from the cowl.

    I think the original solution from ACME was to remove the lower bolt on the windshield hinge and attache the door hinge there, drilling a hole for the upper hole in the door hinge. I found this example of a nice fitting top on a pre 76 CJ showing the upper door hinge on top of the windshield hinge.


    Also, as you can see, this top is sitting very nicely on the Jeep with the windshield soft top channel still intact.



    The top sits flush with the body tub, and the door gaps look uniform. I'd love to get my top to fit like that!

    TahoeJarrett do you have any pictures of your Jeep with the top on it? Examples of how good / bad the fitment is?

    As far as removing the windshield soft top channel, I'd really rather not. There are a few good examples of Jeeps showing the pre 76 ACME top fitting very nicely with the channel intact. This is really how I'd like to get my top to fit. I would really love to see how the top sits on the windshield from the interior. It appears to be molded inside so the top can sit flush on the top of the windshield frame. This would require the top to sit down lower though, either by removing the channel, or trimming the top. If anyone has pictures showing the inside view that would be awesome!
    I think you're on the right track when you copy the fitment shown on the blue Jeep with the black top. I'd mount the doors without the top, then shim the windshield so the angle of the door matches the angle of the windshield. The angle of the windshield can vary some depending on the condition of the cowl seal. Adding a little extra rubber from an inner tube or such, to change the tilt-back, is not uncommon.

    Once the doors fit right, I'd set the top on and see what the position of the front edge is wrt the top of the windshield.

    I would also follow the example and drill the windshield hinges to accept the Acme hinge halves, rather than modifying the door.
    Last edited by timgr; 11-02-2012 at 02:34 PM.
    Tim Reese
    '75 CJ-6, Copper Polly 304/T15
    '77 J10 type 45 (131" WB) 258/T15/3.54
    '82 J20 type 27 360/T18/NP208/3.73 7600 GVWR
    '95 VW Golf Sport 2D 2L

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Middletown, DE
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    22

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    Mr Gangrene Jeans, I thought about trying that. But I just don't see how the top can sit any lower on the windshield without trimming it a bit.

    If you look at the side shot of the blue CJ, it looks like the rain gutter above the door is slightly tapered up for the last inch or so before the windshield. Where as if you look at the side shot of my Jeep the top is perfectly straight where the drip rail is.

    I would venture a guess, that when you could buy the ACME top new, you may have had to trim the excess front lip back, depending on what year 55-75 CJ you had. What with Jeeps history of using "whatever happened to be laying around" for parts and different parts being found on different years, and the crossover from Willys to AMC, I would make a bet that the soft top channel on the windshield probably moved slightly up or down depending on when the windshield frame was manufactured.

    Whom ever originally bought my top, may have not needed to trim the top to get it to fit their Jeep, or maybe they simply just didn't care about the poor fit.

    I'm not thinking about removing a lot of material, but simply tracing the curvature of my windshield channel on say a cardboard template, then transfer that to mark to the front edge of the top, about a 1/2" up from where the bottom front edge is now.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    280

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    Is it possible that you are missing some thick weatherstrip between the top and tub, that would raise the rear and change the angle at the door.
    1969 DJ-5A Universal Dispatcher 100
    153cid/NP542/3.73 Dana 44

    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
    and I took the one less traveled by > Robert Frost

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Middletown, DE
    Posts
    22

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    The weather stripping is in place on the lip that the hardtop sits on the tub. From the inside, the lip sits about 1/4" - 1/3" above the tub due to the thick weather stripping. That makes the outside of the bottom edge of the hard top sit just above the body line on the tub. It also aligns the mounting tab on the door striker so that it meets the tub of the Jeep and will just slightly compress the weather stripping when bolted down.


  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Jacksonville Florida
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: Fitting my Acme Fiberglass Hardtop

    Looking at your pictures, looks like the visor hardware is keeping the top from sliding forward far enough to sit where it should. Take off the visors and try!

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