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Thread: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Sacramento Calif
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    15

    Default D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    I have 1969 cj5 with Dana 44 in the rear it has full floating axles and locking hubs is this a good setup?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Brodnax Va.
    Posts
    698

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    If it was done right its a nice feature .



    The jeep aint yellow is it?

    ETA: I ask because member here has a nice 69 that he done his own home brew full float that looked Very nicely done , Check the tech writeups off the main page to see what I mean. He had some nice fab projects and I havnt saw him around latley.
    Destroyer of Forums.
    Old School : 62 CJ5 , F134 , T90,D18, Dana 30/Dana 44 5:38s Both locked, Disc front brakes , dual Res MC,Manual Saggie Steering,Rear Tank and Electronic distributor
    Version 2.0 in progress My 62 CJ5 build up (link)
    Southern Virginia Jeepers Member

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Chanute, Kansas
    Posts
    817

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    IMO, you can’t make an axle any stronger than with a full float conversion.
    Only issue I’ve had with mine is that it’d shake hub bolts loose and break’em off. I got really good with EZ Outs ‘cause of it, but replaced with manual lock outs with drive flanges then Thread Locked the bolts and that seems to have cured it for now.
    Though, I like have’n the lockouts for flat tow’n so I got some Grade 8 all-thread I’m gonna use to make studs then bolt on the lock outs with Ny-lock nuts and star washers. Hopefully that will resolve the issue for good.
    '60 Willys CJ-5 + '65 L76 Corvette = Corveep

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
    Posts
    629

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    I just replaced my rear hubs with drive flanges as well.
    Different problems with the hubs though. I flat tow and thought I would really miss the hub feature but...
    I drilled and tapped two 1/4x20 holes in the face of the drive flange. Cut a piece of 1"x1/8" stock about 3" long and drilled two holes to match the flanges. With two 1/4 x 3" bolts and the strap-I have a great handle that I can pull those pesky flanges right out with. Takes me about 5 min. a side to pull the flanges and replace the cap for towing or trail use. Not as fast as the hubs, but stronger and more reliable. And much better than pulling the driveshaft for towing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Palo Alto, CA
    Posts
    36

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    I have to confess that I've had trouble with the hubs in my custom design (see tech section). I haven't submitted a write-up of my solution(s). Two problems:
    1 - Under constant loading (ie, freeway), the Warn Hub gears work themselves apart and cause a big 'clunk' as the posi-traction differential catches the spin and the hub gear drops back into gear. The fix was to defeat the springs inside the Warn Hub with a little ring of metal carpenter's tape.
    2 - Angular acceleration of the driven wheels (esp passenger side on a washboard road) is enough to turn the Warn Hub to the 2x2 position. All of a sudden one hub is completely disengaged. I thought it was someone with a wicked sense of humor until I had the problem with no one around. The fix is to put a little bar across the hub and pin the finger slots so they can't rotate.
    Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread...

    But, yeah what the others have said however, we are a biased sample.
    "Polluto" '70 CJ5 225V6, 33x12.5, 2.5", D18 twin stick'd, D27, Full Float D44 (custom), 11" Brakes, WarnOD, Pertronix

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Twin Lake MI
    Posts
    377

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    My warn set-up has the set screw in the hubs. Nice feature for flat towing

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Chanute, Kansas
    Posts
    817

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Corveeper View Post
    IMO, you can’t make an axle any stronger than with a full float conversion.
    Only issue I’ve had with mine is that it’d shake hub bolts loose and break’em off. I got really good with EZ Outs ‘cause of it, but replaced with manual lock outs with drive flanges then Thread Locked the bolts and that seems to have cured it for now.
    Though, I like have’n the lockouts for flat tow’n so I got some Grade 8 all-thread I’m gonna use to make studs then bolt on the lock outs with Ny-lock nuts and star washers. Hopefully that will resolve the issue for good.
    Just for future reference no, that did not "resolve the issue for good".
    On to the safety wire.
    '60 Willys CJ-5 + '65 L76 Corvette = Corveep

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,412

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    I used studs with a shoulder for the hub body to ride against. Cleaned the bolt holes in the bearing hub thoroughly with a tap, then thoroughly with brake cleaner, then thread locked the studs in place using Loc-tite red. I use aircraft style pinch nuts and flat washers to hold the locking hub body's in place. Has worked for me for many, many years with no issues. Lock-Rites front and rear.
    '59 CJ-5 modified, '59 CJ-6 more modified, stock '57 CJ-5, Koenig PTO winch

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Nederland, Co
    Posts
    83

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Wiseman View Post
    1 - Under constant loading (ie, freeway), the Warn Hub gears work themselves apart and cause a big 'clunk' as the posi-traction differential catches the spin and the hub gear drops back into gear. The fix was to defeat the springs inside the Warn Hub with a little ring of metal carpenter's tape.
    !'ve only put about a thousand miles on my full floater but I think I've experienced this. I noticed this on a smooth up hill climb where it just turns lose. My thought was the the axle shaft was walking out and the snap ring pushes the center of the hub out. In the normal usage the snap ring is at the end of the axle shaft holding the axle shaft through the hub gear. On the full floater the snap ring is on the inside of the hub gear.

    Could you elaborate on your fix? Does defeating the spring inside the hub mean that it won't disengage?

    Thanks
    1966 cj5, 225, t19 4 speed, dana 18/30/44 4.27, Air locker/tru-trac, ramsey DP-1 dual pto with winch.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Chanute, Kansas
    Posts
    817

    Default Re: D44 full floating rear axle with locking hubs ?

    Quote Originally Posted by nickmil View Post
    I used studs with a shoulder for the hub body to ride against. Cleaned the bolt holes in the bearing hub thoroughly with a tap, then thoroughly with brake cleaner, then thread locked the studs in place using Loc-tite red. I use aircraft style pinch nuts and flat washers to hold the locking hub body's in place. Has worked for me for many, many years with no issues. Lock-Rites front and rear.
    What studs are you using?
    '60 Willys CJ-5 + '65 L76 Corvette = Corveep

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