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Thread: AMC 304 Intake manifold

  1. #1
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    Default AMC 304 Intake manifold

    About to put an Edelbrock #2131 on a '73 non EGR 304 V8. The Edelbrock instructions are somewhat generic. They talk about a lifter valley heat shield on the bottom of some stock manifolds. Does anyone know if mine would have this? The primary purpose appears to assist a PVC valve function. I realize I'll need a new oil fill tube, hardware, intake manifold gasket and RTV... anything else? Any hints about past experiences doing this project to make it go smoother? Is getting the distributor out going to be a pain in the keister ?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    this is all from a fuzzy memory bank
    the factory metal intake gasket was a pan design, covering the lifter gallery.
    you want vapors only, not excessive oil to be drawn up and out through the PCV opening.
    can't help on your specific manifold question, though I seem to recall the manifolds having that metal shield as well.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    I've got the Eddy manifold too, but did not install it (PO did). I can't answer your valley pan Q. but I do know from experience the distro was very easy to remove/install.
    Mike, A.K.A. Lost Dawg
    '73 CJ5 - With a 360!)
    '99 F350 SuperDuty - pulls our 5th-wheel, gets me to work.
    '04 Liberty - Momma's ride.
    '61 Scout 80 The 'Brute Ute' - a work in progress, from the frame up!
    '63 Scout 80 'Brute Ute II' - Another project...
    Insanity isn't for everybody, but it works for me!

    73 CJ5 pics here
    http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...tart=#imgAnch2

  4. #4
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    thats the only part that makes me alitttle nervous is pulling that out and getting it back in okay.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    The manifold swap should be fairly straight forward. As you anticipate, you'll want the oil fill tube, gaskets, etc. I think I remember reading somewhere that you may need to reshape the pan a little, but that it wasn't difficult. The distributor is simple to pull, just have #1 cylinder at TDC, note where the rotor is pointed and mark (I used tape and marker), remove the hold-down nut and clip after removing all the pertinate wires and hoses and cap, and gently pull up, the rotor will turn (clockwise/counterclockwise?) as you pull it out. Look into the hole and see which direction the oiler slot is pointing, so that when you install the new manifold and things move, you have a reference point. Also note where the rotor pointed when came out at the end, then you can start there when you reinstall. Installation is reverse, the reason you made a mark for where the rotor was pointed is so you don't skip a tooth on reinstall and throw your timing off, and so it slides into the oiler slot. I got lucky and only had to try 3 times to get it right!
    Sorry for the ramble, I'm told I talk this way too!
    Good luck.
    Mike, A.K.A. Lost Dawg
    '73 CJ5 - With a 360!)
    '99 F350 SuperDuty - pulls our 5th-wheel, gets me to work.
    '04 Liberty - Momma's ride.
    '61 Scout 80 The 'Brute Ute' - a work in progress, from the frame up!
    '63 Scout 80 'Brute Ute II' - Another project...
    Insanity isn't for everybody, but it works for me!

    73 CJ5 pics here
    http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...tart=#imgAnch2

  6. #6
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    You will also want to make sure when you put the bolts back in that you put some RTV on the threads. I didn't last intake I put on and I still have anti freeze seeping past the bolts. I have found with the AMC intakes that if your not very careful when you set them on the gasket they leak. Just make sure when you set it down on the heads it is straight. Use the gasket sealer as they recommend in the gasket set instructions. I use spray tack or something like that on the intake ports and RTV on the water ports. Keep your RTV neat, use plenty but don't goob it.

    Has been a lot of years since I dealt with the edelbrock. But the heat shield they speak of is attached to the bottom of the intake with these little drive in rivet lookin things. When you get your old intake off, flip it over and you will see exactly what they are talking about. I don't have any intake pictures I don't think. I will look and post them if I do.

    Just take your time and make sure the gasket is lined up right and you don't slide the gasket out of place when you set the manifold on it. The bolt holes on the gasket (metal valley pan gasket is what you want) have indentations to hold them in place.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    gob of goop = goob?
    Tim Reese
    '75 CJ-6, Copper Polly 304/T15
    '77 J10 type 45 (131" WB) 258/T15/3.54
    '82 J20 type 27 360/T18/NP208/3.73 7600 GVWR
    '95 VW Golf Sport 2D 2L

  8. #8
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    This is exactly the info I need, thanks to all. Is there a marking somewhere to let me know when I'm TDC? If the valve covers are off is there a tell-tale? I'm kind of use to 7' dia open flywheels, not so used to automotive.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    Pull the plug and stick a stick in the hole. when you turn the engine over you are at TDC when the stick doesn't move any higher. I suppose then you watch the valves to see who is open or is going to open to determine if it is a compression or exhaust stroke.
    Inch by inch it's a cinch!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: AMC 304 Intake manifold

    I'm no expert but my understanding of the valley pan gasket is the purpose is to keep hot oil from splashing onto the undreside of the intake manidfold keeping it cooler giving cooler denser fuel. I recently did a valve job on my 75 304 and it was there. the hardest thing was getting the manifold inplace while lining up the valley pan and the front and rear rubber gasket. The instructions mentioned using RTV sealer in place of the rubber gaskets and I finally went that way. you don't need to remove the distributor on a V8 AMC, and I woldn't just to change the intake. It's just one more thing to worry about when getting it back together and running.
    Last edited by LarryD; 03-02-2007 at 01:02 PM. Reason: can't write clearly
    THE TOUGHEST 4-LETTER WORD ON WHEELS: JEEP
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    Larry

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