Twin Stick Help

Just called J&W, local to me Jeep dismantler. $140 for both sticks. Maybe a little pricey but probably a fair price, I might go that route.

 

Don't you need the shift rails?

 

I think before you go that route...... I would call these guys. Jeep CJ Dana 20 "short" stainless twin-stick shifter W/boot P/N CJ20S

 

This is actually what you need. Whole kit is only $129.
Because you already have the twin stick front housing......This will bolt right on. I think
International D-20 Stainless Steel Twin-stick Shifter P/N D20IH

 

That looks easy enough to make. That’s what I needed was the concept on how to do it

 

I asked because if you have a longer than stock trans (you obviously do), I’d start with building a shifter assembly to fit through your existing floor hole to prevent even more work rebuilding the floor.

 

I have both versions of the rails so should just need the sticks. But I’m liking the Dana 20 concept that Kyle posted best so far. I have those materials on hand.

 

I am curious to know how that works out for you. I had a well known builder in Washington rebuild my D18 and install twin stick setup. It popped out of 2wd low unless I used a bungee to hold it in..... figured it was body rubbing. When I converted to the D20, I bought the complete case from the same well known builder. Terra low gears, roller bearing intermediate shaft, ect...... fanciest D20 that money can buy...... Yea it pops out of 2wd low also....
This is with a gaping hole in the floor to prevent rubbing.

 

There are at least two styles of sticks. Short and long. I am going to use the long version which I belive Cj's from the mid 60's had.

 

I'd like to use this set up with my SM420.
What is the proper name for these fittings?
Are there any advantages to them over Rod End Bearings?

 

McMaster Carr calls them Ball joint linkages.

McMaster-Carr

 

James
Went through my precious junk pile and found that I don't have a pair of sticks. Sorry.

 

The Jeep original ball joint linkage for the clutch is widely known to fall apart. The parts from McMaster-Carr are undoubtedly higher quality, and this application sees a lot less stress than the clutch linkage. I still have the OEM ball joints on my CJ-6's single-arm shifter, and it seems fine. I used rod ends from McMaster-Carr for the clutch linkage on my CJ-6 and J10. You could use rod ends (Heim joints) if you wanted - likely more expensive.

 

Keep in mind, your existing D18 single-stick shift rods are not the same as D20 rods that have a slot cut in them as shown in NorCal's IH stainless D20 lever kit. They won't just bolt up.
Since you already have the twin-stick front housing, the simplest tried-and-true twin stick setup is to swap in the early twin-stick shift rods, and use the original forged levers. These levers can often be found used on eBay for $40/set or less. This is assuming you have clearance for that front T/C housing with your larger transmission case.
-Donny

 

Kyle, Do you have the spring and poppet ball installed in the front housing for the 2wd/4wd shift rod? Maybe a heavier (fresh) spring or correct size ball needs to be installed? If this doesn't fix the jumping out, shorten/lighten your shift lever.
-Donny

 

I am running stock shift levers. I pulled the spring and poppet ball out once before. They are both in there, maybe they are worn out?

 

You might be able to use a round file and cut the groove a little deeper/sharper?

 

Worst case the bushing in the main output shaft is worn or the front output bearing is worn. Those would allow the two shafts to wobble relative to each other and the shift fork / collar. That would allow the collar to work free from the main output shaft.

 

That would probably work.
When I had the D20 built, I paid extra for special ground shift shafts for 2wd low operation. Supposedly these shafts are special made just for the builder.
I really don't use it that often, when I do I just throw a bungee on it.

Neither part should be worn. It was all built brand new 1 year ago. It has popped out of 2wd low since new.

 

Might be better to use "Heim joints" as Tim stated, true name spherical rod ends, they have ball built in that can be captured by putting a washer on either side of the ball, use a through bolt to mount with a NyLock nut, which will prevent the rod end from falling apart when they wear. Considering the small amount of movement involved, that will probably not be a concern. They are available in left and right hand threads, so they act like a turnbuckle, I have some go kart/snowmachine tie rods that I've been looking to find something to use them for. Now I know. I have a set of twin sticks that were modified at some point in the past by a previous owner, they were cut off about 10" above the pivot hole and the top 3" were heated and bent over, some 3/8" round stock fix that, and welding a the head of a bolt to the top of the round stock for shift knobs=GTG Hope this makes sense, Good luck!