1960 Cj6 Pep's Project

This post will be the kickoff of my 1960 CJ6 Re-Build. You can find some of the details about my Jeep on my profile.

I bought the jeep about 10 years ago and I worked on it enough to get it to run.
Now it is time to give it some long deserved attention. Focus will be on basic function and safety, followed by general good looks.

This Jeep will not be a rock crawler and will most likely just take the occasional logging road or beach run for fun. The intent is to get a good enthusiast level running jeep. MY engine, transmission and transfer case are in functional working order and do not need a ton of work. My top concerns are brakes, steering, leaky fuel tank, and other rust/corrosion.

 

I will be spending 25 straight days working on this project in the Saint Louis area starting around March 03.

Plan to accomplish the following:
Day 1: Disassemble
Day 2: Disassemble
Day 3: Steering and Pedals Mock Up
Day 4: Tub Removal, Refurbish the Dualmatic Lockers, Other Prep / Side Work
Day 5: Tub Removal, Frame Prep
Day 6: Refurbish the Frame, Rough Mount Bumpers
Day 7: Paint the Frame, Other Prep / Side Work
Day 8: Steering Box and Shafts Fab, Brake MC and Lines, Gas Tank Fab, Gear Shift Levers
Day 9: Transfer Case Seals, Parking Brake Fab, Frame Paint Touchup
Day 10: Rear Axle Seals and Bearings, Front Axle Seals and Bearings, Steering Linkages
Day 11: Tub / Body Steel work, Dash Wiring Bench Work
Day 12: Dash Steel work, Gas and Brake Pedals, Hood and Front Fenders
Day 13: Windshield Frame, Tailgate, Seat Frames
Day 14: Mount Tub to Frame
Day 15: Mount Tub to Frame
Day 16: Install Gas Filler, Test Fit Mechanicals
Day 17: Paint Interior
Day 18: Paint Interior
Day 19: Paint Exterior
Day 20: Paint Exterior
Day 21: Finish the Brake Pedals, Install the Steering Column, Dash Panel and Wiring
Day 22: Finish the Parking Brake, Install Seat Frames and Seats, Prepare Engine
Day 23: Install Fenders & Grill, Install Hood and Windshield, Install Bumpers
Day 24: Final Fit and Finish
Day 25: Go for a Drive

Hope to be posting here daily with progress in addition to my own website where I can host detailed pictures and videos of the project.

Right now I am working on purchasing the major parts, finding a metals and welding supplier in the area, and maybe a few folks to help me out along the way. Also looking for input on ssome of the major mechanical decisions and style choices.

 

Welcome and good luck with your schedule.

 

Welcome

 

First two questions for the group:

A. What are the thoughts on bumpers?
I figure anything beyond the C-Channel on the front will require fabricating some brackets/mounts, and my timeline will not really allow me to fabricate a scratch bumper. I threw together some of the style options on the market in the attached picture. These are shown on a CJ7, but close enough for a clean visual comparison.

B. My CJ6 currently has a fixed tow bar that looks like it was stick welded together with farm trailer scraps. I have towed the jeep a few thousand miles on that tow bar behind my Ram 1500. With the planned upgrades to the CJ6, I also intend to update my flat tow setup so I can remove the bar it when it is not needed. Does anyone have experience with flat towing using Tow Spring Shackles? Anyone have pictures of how a tow bar actually ties in with that kind of setup? It seems a bit of a mystery to me. How do I ensure a good solid fit between the Tow Bar and the shackle/pins? The proper dimensions are just "missing" from an advertised solutions I have been able to find. I could tow from the bumper D-Ring Mounts, but then I will be relying on whatever bumper / Frame Horn connection system I fabricate at home.

Got Distracted ... Pics uploaded now.

 

I’m not seeing any pictures. Might just be me.....

 

Here’s an aftermarket bumper on an early CJ. It’s made for a’76 to ‘86 CJ, but he got it to fit his ‘58 with a little modification. It’s from Motobilt.

Buffs 58 cj5 build

If you go to post #95 and picture #4, there is a good picture of his bumper. And then on the next page he explains how he got it to fit. This is from member Lilbuff63’s build.

 

something like figure D seems reasonable, and you could use the D-ring mounts to tow.

 

I vote A or B. Not fond of the loops on the front bumpers.

 

I got distracted and didnt have the pictures up yet. :-\

The Motobilt bumper was on my list as an option, and I have seen that adapting most bumpers made for 76 to 86 CJ only takes an extra hole and a washer/spacer to fit our earlier models. In 86 the YJ went almost 3/4 inch wider on the frame members.

My picture is the current selection of Amazon/ebay bumpers available. I put the pictures together so my wife can vote on something. She said she doesn't care what I do with it as long as it is "pretty" when I'm done. I asked her what "pretty" means when it comes to a bumper, and she said "I don't know, show me options and I'll tell you what I don't like!"

 

I too would vote for A or B. They have a nice clean look. I’m not fond of the hoops either. Just personal preference.

 

Question for this evening:

One of my primary concerns for this project is upping my safety on the road. To me, that means brakes and steering.

I am currently working on sourcing the required parts for my steering column and shaft. The previous owner upgraded to a newer manual steering box (I assume). The whole assembly looks hacked together with a pillow block bolted to a torch cut steel plate supporting the column behind the firewall, some welded shafts. The steering box actually looks like it is fairly well installed to the frame, but it is really far forward. The entire setup is functional and seems to be made out of solid material (the pillow block and plate likely weigh 30 lbs together), but the fit and finish is just not there. Attached picture is a montage of the current steering box and shaft setup.

Is this a 72-86 CJ Steering box?
what are my options given this situation?
Do I need the rag joint or would something like a set of Borgeson vibration reducing u-joints do the same job?
Anything I should look out for?

I am thinking a fresh Universal/GM 30" tilt column with a dash hanger and floor mount, two new u-joints and intermediate shaft with a pair of heim joint supports mounted down to tabs off the frame. Use the existing box and spud shaft. Clean up my rods and ends and replace anything that needs replacing. I'm ready to order the primary component and fill in any extra parts I need after I mock up the shaft routing around the exhaust as long as there isn't any wisdom dropped on me here to nudge me away from the initial plan.

Planned construction (from wheel to box) is Wheel, Column on Dash hanger and firewall mount, U-Joint, Rag Joint, Intermediate Shaft on Dual supports, U-Joint, Spud Shaft, Box

 

Good luck on your schedule. seems like a good Jeep to start with.

 

I'm looking forward to following along with your project. Good luck!

 

That's a lot of work for a month.
Good luck. There should be a few steel shops in st.louis
If you are on Facebook check in with the central Missouri 4wd clubs. There are a few in that area.

I would seriously consider outsourcing what you are not experienced at since one mistake is a week waiting on parts.

 

I'm sure you've been thinking about this plan for a while, but with such an accelerated build schedule, let me offer some unsolicited advice (some of which might be worth the price you paid for it )

1. Use your safety gear - nitrile gloves, safety gloves, goggles, mask/respirator, and ear protection.
2. Have a fire extinguisher or two around
3. Use or install LED or Fluorescent lighting (harbor freight or home depot both have good plug-in shop lights.)
4. Use mechanical advantage where possible - floor jacks, jackstands, hoists, cherry pickers, etc. and be sure of their ratings.
5. Gather your parts before your build. Nothing stops momentum like waiting for parts. Order/buy a few extra fasteners and seals kits if needed.
6. As you undo hardware, have a tupperware or plastic bag to stash them in with a label. Piles DO NOT work, and even an elephant would have a hard time remembering where everything goes.
7. Label all wires and brackets with info on where they go.
8. Use your phone or your point-n-shoot camera to take lots of pictures of before-during-after assembly to assist in re-assembly.
9. Don't be opposed to delaying your project to allow paint to cure or parts arrive. Cutting corners usually lands me in the "regret zone".


Otherwise, have a great time. it's going to be hard work, but if you can get it all done, that means you're back on the road in record time.

 

D without the bull nose bar.

 

X2, I like this one but without the bar.

 

Appreciate the feedback. I restored a 1966 beetle about ten years ago. The plastic baggies, and twist ties with plastic tags were ESSENTIAL in getting everything back together. Took hundreds of pictures, but never seemed to have the right angle or view.

I have been planning this one for a while. I plan to outsource the paint and any of the metal patching that I haven't done by the time I hit my paint day.

 

I ended up compromising on the Bumper situation.

Some are traditionalists and leaned towards a full width bar style with "rounded" caps. Most of those folks did not like the winch guard or stinger bar. I tend to agree on the traditional styling and wanted something a little wider with a clean, solid look.

The most common response among forum and local friends is something a little "stubbier" like option D, about half of those folks say I should lose the guard bar.

My family leaned towards the modern TJ/LJ style bumpers with raised ends, winch plates, fog lights and the bull bar.

I ended up making my decision on mounting strength and quality as much as any visual appeal. I landed on the Fishbone Offroad Piranha front bumper. It has a larger mounting surface and more contact area with the frame rails (3 bolts top and bottom) compared to the other clean looking cj bumpers. And, I really liked the guard tube shape, with a longer horizontal section that is decidedly not a stinger. I'm going to go against the crowd and say that I like the winch guard. In this case I think it is a functional addition and the shape of this one does not distract from the clean lines of a straight bar bumper.

Many of the other options for a CJ on the market only use 1 bolt top and bottom to hold the bumper on. I don't feel comfortable towing from the bumper and putting the entire tow stress on 2 shear points. Thus, I chose a bumper that looks like it will provide more strength and better fit in mounting. Hopefully that turns out to be true. I will let you know how it goes!