Clutch Installation Question

I’m installing a new Luk clutch kit on my 225 dauntless cj5. As I’m bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel, the fingers compress down, and by the time everything is torqued, they’re basically flat. I’ve made sure that the disc is installed the correct way. Is this normal?

Here’s the LUK kit I purchased


Here’s a pic of the installed clutch


Here’s how flat they are


Thanks for your help.

 

It's normal for the clutch fingers to compress as you tighten it up.

 

I've always had good luck with Luk products. The diaphragm fingers laying flat represent the clamped up position of the assembly. As the clutch friction material wears away the fingers will eventually protrude to reflect the material loss.
As long as the travel of the pressure plate is acceptable to disengage and reengage the the friction disc it is likely okay. The engaged & disengaged occurring at the middle of the finger flex travel is actually desirable ...you should be fine.

 

Yep normal.

 

Does your 1970 have the longer bell-housing? By that I mean the one that doesn’t use a separate plate. I had issues with that clutch fitting on my 1971. Used a Luk clutch that protruded an extra 1/2 “. I don’t have the number handy, but can get it for you if you need it.

 

Looks normal to me

 

Thank you all for the confirmation.

Mine is the shorter version that uses the adapter. Here’s a pic

 

You should be fine. Mine doesn’t have the adapter and was longer, which didn’t make that clutch “tall” enough.

 

Hello,

I have been reading many, many clutch-related posts on this website... I also have a 1971 CJ-5 with the factory close ratio 4 speed and the LONG bell housing without the large adapter for a t-14. My set up does have a small adapter to accept the Jeep T-18 close ration transmission. I put the standard V6 clutch in my Jeep (Valeo - not LUK) and after about 3000 miles, I have a clutch release bearing that whines loudly from time to time. It is pretty clear that the clutch kit I purchased is incorrect for the T-18 with the long bell housing as I could never get the clutch to fully disengage without adjusting the free play out of the pedal. I believe this has caused the clutch release bearing to wear out prematurely. Do you have a record of what LUK clutch worked for your long bell housing set up? Thanks.

 

That’s the same basic issue I faced. I had to adjust the cable so tight to get the clutch to disengage, that I had constant contact with the clutch and the t.o. Bearing. I also went with the longest t.o. Bearing I could find.

The Jeep is currently at the shop that rebuilt the engine, so it’s to early to know if this will work. I haven’t been able to actually drive it. It seemed to disengage and have some space left between the clutch and the bearing. The real test will be when I get it back and am able to drive it.

I initially purchased Luk clutch #01-029. The second one that I ordered was 05-065, which if memory serves me correctly, was 3/8 to 1/2” “taller”, I can’t remember for sure. I believe the place I order it from called a high hat or something like that.

I'm looking for the number of the t.o. Bearing that I used, it was taller then the one that come with the initial clutch kit.

my remaining concern is the clutch pedal is very, very stiff. I think I’m going to have to pull everything and try a longer pivot stud.

I hope to have the Jeep back soon and will report back on how it works.

I hope this helps you out.

 

Here are pictures of both Luk Clutch’s.

 

Thaanks very much for your reply. It helps. But it would be nice to hear how your project runs after it gets out of the shop. I went back and measured my bell housing and it turns out its the same length as the one for the T-14 transmission. Also, the cast iron adapter for the T- 18 is about the same thickness as the one for the T-14 so it seems that the key difference is the length of the T-18 input shaft vs the length of the T-14 input shaft. They both have the same diameter and spline count but it looks like the Jeep T-14 input shaft is input shaft is 8.875 inch (or 9.35 according to posts on ECJ5) and the T-18 input shaft for the Kaiser era was 7.43 inch (according to Novak). The difference is 1.445 inch. I'll measure the adapters more closely to see if they are the same. Then, I'll need to investigate the length of the bearing retainers to see what, if any, changes are necessary from the standard V6 - T-14 clutch and clutch release bearing.

 

I still have my t14 laying on the floor if you need any measurements from mine

 

I’ll update you as soon as the engine is back. I know how frustrating this is, tried many different things to get this right since I’ve owned the Jeep.

Do you also have the cable set up and did you find the clutch pedal very hard to depress? I’ve always had that problem as well and would love to get that figured out.

 

Look forward to your update. Yes, I also run a cable set up - mine is from Inline tubing and seems to work well. I would say the pedal effort with the Valeo clutch is OK, maybe a little more effort than the one I replaced, but not too bad.

 

Sure, if you can get a measurement on how long the T-14 input shaft sticks out from the face of the transmission and the length of the bearing retainer that the throw out bearing slides on - it would be helpful. Thx.

 

Here’s a pic of the measurement of the input shaft from the face of the transmission:

Here’s a pic of the length of the bearing retainer that the throw out bearing rides on from the face of the retainer:


Hope these help. Planning on installing the transmission on Saturday so let me know if you need different pics or different angles on the measurements. Happy to help anyway I can.

 

Thanks for the pictures. Everything is helpful. So I went back and measured the two Jeeps - one 1970 with with the stock t-14 and one 1971 with factory T-18 (August 70 build). Both have the same Bellhousing (6 3/4 inch deep) and both have an adapter that is about 2 and 11/16 inch deep. The 1971 with the T-18 has an extra adapter which is about 13/16 inch thick. Now I have not measured it yet, but the jeep t-18 input shaft is supposed to have a SHORTER stick out length relative to the t-14 (around 8.75 and 9.3 inches depending on how it is measured and who measures it). This is not making sense to me yet. Also, it seems pretty clear, given the extra 13/16 inch spacer with the t-18, that these two set ups could NOT possibly use the same clutch and throw out bearing. What am I missing here?

It looks like the 05-065 LUK might be better for the Jeep T-18 installation given that it is a little thicker (as measured to the clutch diaphragm face) but unclear if has the same disengagement spec.

 

Someone who is more knowledgeable than I am on these jeeps will need to respond to your question. I’m sure someone will chime in and help.

however, I did call LUK tech support and gave them the measurements and they confirmed that they had sent the correct clutch/T.O bearing for my application.

I haven’t gotten far enough putting everything back together to know for sure if it will work though.

 

Thanks again. If you get a chance, could you let us know what clutch release bearing they sent you. Part number and length could be helpful. Thx.