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My Prarie Gold 67' CJ-5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by willy s. flatfender, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. May 4, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Started on the master cylinder brake/clutch pedal upgrade today. I am using a combination of 71' and 66' parts whichever are in the
    best shape plus a new dual master. I used the pedal shaft and clutch pedal from the 66' because the 71' had a cable control stock.
    Here's the 71 master test fitting to check clearance.

    [​IMG]

    Putting bleeder plugs in new master.

    [​IMG]

    Then I bolted it in place to bleed it and started to fit and evaluate the rest of the linkage. I am using the 71' brake pedal and push rod and
    when I took them off this is what they looked like minus the three washers and the cotter pin, and the push rod didn't run straight into the
    master.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the wear on the shaft.

    [​IMG]

    and the push rod.

    [​IMG]

    So I decided to make a steel bushing This is an old lug stud, the push rod is a tight slip fit up to the shoulder. I flattened the head and
    marked the center then ran a nut on to clamp in the drill press.

    [​IMG]

    Then I drilled a pilot hole and followed with a 7/16" bit that matches the stub on the brake pedal, drilling straight thru, the threaded end is cut off by the drill bit.

    [​IMG]

    This is the bushing.

    [​IMG]



    Here it is re assembled to check the fit and finish up every thing else in the clutch/brake linkage. The bushing goes into the rod end and then onto the pedal
    stub and then is pinned, this moves the rod further inboard and in line with the bore in the master.
    (pay no attention to the welding rod retainer, that's just temporary)!


    [​IMG]
     
  2. May 4, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    This 1" piece of strap was the clutch rod on the 66' so I replaced it with a piece of threaded rod and 2 brake yolks, it is now the right length
    for the new trans. and adjustable.

    [​IMG]

    Installing the 465 seems to have moved everything back about 2 1/2", I haven't altered the drive lines yet but the clutch rod, clutch cable and
    z-bar or clutch control tube were all off 2.5". Mounting the tube on the frame I moved the front bolt to the rear hole and drilled a new rear hole.

    [​IMG]

    The new clutch rod is now the right length but the cable is too short so I have to lengthen it. This is the yolk with a pin frozen in the bore,
    I ground the head off and drove it out the opposite way.

    [​IMG]

    Then I cut and drilled this piece of 1/4" to make a new tab for the cable to pin to.

    [​IMG]

    Then welded it on and ground it down.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. May 4, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Then rattled every thing black and bolted it all back together. I still need pins for the brake yolks but 5/16" bolts and lock nuts will work for now.

    [​IMG]

    A couple of the new cable attachment on the tube.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The new master in place, still need the outside washer and big cotter pin.

    [​IMG]

    The homemade bushing ground and painted and a pin holding it on. That's white lith. on the boot to help slide it in place.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. May 5, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Tired of working on the front so I moved to the rear today and pulled the rear end, springs, shocks and shackles.

    [​IMG]

    I think these pieces of junk (the shackles) are actually early theft prevention devices, impact socket, thin wall 1/2 drive, box end wrench, none of them will fit.
    The sides are too close to the bolt head or nut, I broke a 3/8 drive socket, only the very tip of an open end wrench to back up and another 3/8 drive socket
    finally got the two shackle bolts off.


    [​IMG]

    Found this on the passenger side spring hanger, I wasn't going to do anything to the frame on the rear but this changed my mind.

    [​IMG]
    So I got my frame template out and cut these 2 pieces to box above the spring hangers, then I drug the welder as close as I could , still the gun just
    reaches the pass. side.

    [​IMG]

    Driver side, one of the boxing plates goes here, it will stop about the body mount and extend a couple inches past the spring hanger.

    [​IMG]

    The pass. side fitting the new steel.

    [​IMG]

    After welding the plates in I moved to the outside of the frame, here I took a grinding disc and ran the edge in this joint on both
    sides then cleaned the surrounding area with a flap disc.

    [​IMG]

    This is the offending area, I cleaned the joint and cut into the crack before welding it solid.

    [​IMG]

    Driver side again I hit something about halfway through the weld and boiled it out, you can see the bubble, but the rest is solid. Since I was under the hood I
    filled a couple holes also.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. May 5, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Then I wire brushed every thing I could reach and rattled it all up.

    [​IMG]

    Driver wheel well.

    [​IMG]

    Pass. side spring hanger.

    [​IMG]

    Pass. wheel well.

    [​IMG]

    Realized much too late I had forgotten to show the boxing so here it is, after shake and shoot. Nice huh?

    [​IMG]

    I built new spring plate/u-bolt protectors and shackles last week when it snowed and here they are along the cleaned and painted brake and clutch pedals.

    [​IMG]

    Shackles: 1 1/2"x 1/4" strap 4" long 7/16" holes 1" square tube brace.

    [​IMG]

    U-bolt plate on it's side, I just heated 1/4" plate red hot and beat the snot out of it to bend the 90s then welded them to the set of plates w/ shock mounts
    that I took off the 6, then a couple pieces of scrap to brace the center.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. May 9, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    I'm having trouble locating center pins for the rear springs, so I decided to build the tranny tunnel today.
    Started with the stock piece and trimmed every thing that was touching the trans, OD shifter and homemade
    twin stick.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then I drug out my trusty 82' chevy hood, and started cutting.

    [​IMG]

    This is the two pieces that make up the box to surround the tower on the trans.

    [​IMG]

    Checking how they will fit and what needs trimming.

    [​IMG]

    Then welded up.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. May 9, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Then I cut a 9"x 9" square and folded a 1/2" of each edge over on itself to strengthen it.

    [​IMG]

    And welded it in place, the folded edges give a nice solid edge to really burn in.

    [​IMG]

    My clean one owner 68" chevy tunnel cover, to mark the opening in the new cover.

    [​IMG]

    The top half is done.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. May 9, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    I wasted about 3 hours trying to get the right side looking decent and it was a mess, I couldn't even stand to take pictures.
    So I took another approach, built a flat top and side and welded it to the cover, once it was solid I turned it over and cut
    all the mess off from underneath. Then it was just a matter of cutting and trimming the openings for the shifters.
    Here the boot for the trans is in place and the hole for the OD shifter is done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I wasted so much time I couldn't finish, I small hole to fill, clean up and paint but it is almost done. Here's a couple showing the t/c shifters in action.

    Front end out, low range.

    [​IMG]

    Front end in, high range.

    [​IMG]

    Man the range shifter has a long throw, it's gonna be tough to boot.

    and front end in, low range.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. May 9, 2013
    tomatolane

    tomatolane Lane

    Chattanooga...
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
    Messages:
    465
    You are for sure a true rat rodder.

    Love your thriftyness , great work man.
     
  10. May 11, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Thank you, I am glad you're enjoying it!
    I have have worked on projects before where every thing had to be the newest innovation, latest tech,
    trying to build the worlds greatest Jeep. All while hundreds of others were doing the same thing faster
    so I would have to stop and change to the new latest innovation, until I burned out on the build
    and either couldn't finish or it took years. This way works for me and I can enjoy the finished? project
    a lot sooner than before.


    How's this for thriftiness? This is the top half of a torn boot from a recently acquired dana 300 that became the boot for
    the overdrive shifter.

    [​IMG]
    Here it is installed.

    [​IMG]

    I finished the master cylinder replacement. I struggled to drill the upper bolt holes, so I just welded the top of the brack
    to the top of the frame rail.

    [​IMG]

    I'm long past the days where I want to hear a dauntless rumbling or sm=465/d 18 rattling under my feet, so I covered the tunnel
    with tight seal, and bonded it with my hair dryer and roller.

    [​IMG]

    Then covered it in rustoleum bed liner.

    [​IMG]

    I want to glue carpet pad and cheap carpet in also but there are so many angles I don't know if I can.
     
  11. May 11, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    I am still having trouble locating centering pins for the rear leaf springs and thought maybe someone on here
    had to find some similar to these and could help out.
    The stock spring packs were ten leaf w/ a cast degree shim, the head on the pin is 3/4" to fit the shim and
    the spring perch on the axle.
    Here is the shim in place on the stock spring.

    [​IMG]

    And without the shim, you can see that it is the same as all the other pins w/ a tapered slotted head, 5/16"x 24 thread, but it is 3/4 inch tall.

    [​IMG]

    The spring packs are a little flat so I want to use the springs off my 71' project. they haven't flattened and they have 12 leaves.
    Here is the shim on the new leaf pack.

    [​IMG]

    And without shim same pin as every other one I've seen slotted 1/2" tall head.

    [​IMG]



    any body else have these shims on their shorty?

    I also got the attachments for the park brake and spring back on the altered trans. x-member.
    When I cut the section out of the x-member I went straight thru the cable guide loop, all I had to do was cut it off the
    removed section and weld it back on more or less as it was. In the stock location it hit the underside of the trans.
    but it looks close and should work fine, when I get the brake and cable re-installed.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. May 13, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    This is the parking brake off the 66' seems like it was mounted on one of the model 18's that leaked.

    [​IMG]

    The brake lever was hanging free since the stud was broken out of the bearing cap. Might have driven it with the handle pulled.

    [​IMG]

    So I cleaned up another assembly I had that still has decent shoes on it, the spare drum I had has a piece broken off.

    [​IMG]

    So I cleaned up the original one it has a little bit of grooving but still looks serviceable. Here they are after a little wire brushing.

    [​IMG]

    Then a little shake and shoot and ready for installation.

    [​IMG]

    Then installed it all on the t/c.This shot also shows the brake cable routing ring back together with the bottom half on the x-member. Cutting right through it left it a little rough
    and to clear the trans. I had to cut a bout a inch of the top piece to shorten it but it's back on and just needs a little heat and reshaping to make it as new.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. May 13, 2013
    tomatolane

    tomatolane Lane

    Chattanooga...
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
    Messages:
    465
    Love it ! just loveit !

    Every thing so far looks, ( alright, mighty, super fine! to me! :)
     
  14. May 13, 2013
    tomatolane

    tomatolane Lane

    Chattanooga...
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
    Messages:
    465
    You for sure ,qualify to use the frase (...I have done so much, with so little, for so long, that now i am qualified, to do anything, with nothing ...) :)
     
  15. May 14, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Man you are so right, I don't know what to do when I can actually afford off the shelf parts.
    Thank you for the kind words and encouragement.

    This is the largest piece of scrap 1/4" I have left, so I have to cut the 2 lines and join the halves to make the front of my skidplate.

    [​IMG]

    These pieces and circles will fill the unnecessary holes in the original skid 6 of them of various sizes.

    [​IMG]

    Where the original skid was hitting the front of the trans, I cut it from the front to the first bend about 6" from the left side and bent the
    center flat to clear trans and welded a small triangle shaped piece in the gap. Then the 2 pieces joined together were welded on the front
    overlapping for strength.

    [​IMG]

    Then the sides of the extension were heated and folded into wings. I will probably have to nick the corner with a torch to clear the front drive line
    I'll know how much when I replace the flattened front springs

    [​IMG]

    Trans. side, holes filled you can see the corner that might need trimming it's not as close as it looks but with the
    current springs the prop shaft will just clear the starter.

    [​IMG]

    The joint after a little cladding and grinding to smooth it out.

    [​IMG]

    Then the front piece in place, this fits just in front of the bolts for the inspection plate.

    [​IMG]

    Just like this.

    [​IMG]

    Side view of the finished front half, and my supervisor watching the deer instead of the work.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. May 14, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    This is how I took care of the giant drain hole for the t/c.
    I lined this 1/4" piece of 1.75" tube up with the drain plug, balancing on the edge of the hole. Marked it took the skid back off and welded it in place.
    The tube will contain the gear oil instead of letting it spread all over the skid if I ever drain it. Plus on any impact the blow should be spread around
    the plug on the bung.

    [​IMG]

    Then I cut a piece to fill the remainder of the original drain hole.

    [​IMG]

    Then while it cooled, I wire brushed and painted the battery and alternator mount.
    Bottom.

    [​IMG]

    Top.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. May 15, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    I believe this is the skid off the output of a 205 or maybe the carrier bearing I can't remember.
    Anyway It's going on the back of the Jeep to protect the park brake. I'm cutting the center out as marked to flatten out
    the bend and make it sit flat against the main skid plate.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Then I welded some scrap in to close the gap, except the point. I cut the point and about 3" off, turned it over,
    beat it flat and welded it back where it came from only upside down.Then I clamped it to the skid and put it in the
    drill press for some mounting holes,


    WITHOUT BOLTING IT ON TO CHECK THE LOCATION!!!:shock: :oops: :cry: :oops:



    In my defense it was hot, I had taken it on and off at least 20 other times, I was tired.

    2 of the bolt holes were directly under the t/c pan. So I marked a better location took both plates off again and re drilled all 4 holes.
    Then welded up and ground the first four holes. Here is a shot of the multiple drilled holes.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the completed skids all painted up and ready to install. The two slots are mount holes and the larger hole is where the carriage bolt
    for the main plate goes.

    [​IMG]

    Then I bolted every thing back on for the last time hopefully.
    Brake plate bolted on.

    [​IMG]

    From the rear.

    [​IMG]

    I welded this little appendage on the brake skid to protect the bolts on the trans mount.

    [​IMG]

    Another larger view underneath.

    [​IMG]

    The front. I wire brushed and painted the inspection cover ,and put it on for the last time also.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. May 19, 2013
    CJ5Kyle

    CJ5Kyle Member

    Livermore, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Looking good man. I'm digging the skid plate. I need to fab one and this just gave me some direction for mine lol
     
  19. May 22, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Thanks Kyle, Glad you like it. It's nowhere near as big as it could be, but should do all I need and it looks sort of original.
    Had to take a week to go to the front range and take care of my mom, but best of all I was able to go to Denver Spring
    and pick up some long centering pins for the thicker spring packs and factory shims.

    This is the new pins and nuts, the small circle is a head lengthener the same as I used on my POS. before I rotated the 14 bolt
    and built new spring perches.


    [​IMG]


    Of coarse the smallest ones they could find were 3/8 and I need 5/16, so I drilled the threads off
    some grade 8 nuts and bolted them on.

    [​IMG]

    Quick shot showing why you should always change the centering pins when you work on your leaf springs.

    [​IMG]

    This thing is low miles, fairly dry climate most of it's life, it spent most of it's time in AZ. and NV. and the picture doesn't show how bad they really are.
    New 5/16"x4" allens are only a dollar or so at the hardware store and they take 10 minutes to change.

    Springs bolted back together w/shims, a coat of paint and new bushings.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. May 23, 2013
    willy s. flatfender

    willy s. flatfender Member

    northwest Colorado
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Messages:
    197
    Burning the bushing out of the shackle hanger.

    [​IMG]

    Two minutes work and here's the result.

    [​IMG]

    Then the WORST JOB on the suspension of these things, removing the bushing sleeve. These things just do not want to give up
    and be replaced. 5 chisels/punches and a 4 lb. hammer and a lot of cursing. So I took a little break from the hammer and did
    a couple other things.
    I'm using a scout 20 turned 18 and the rear bearing cap speedo housing blocks the fill hole so I need to alter the vent in the front
    bearing housing, pretty simple 3/8"x1" pipe nipple, 45* elbow and a cut down 3/8"x 3" nipple.

    [​IMG]

    Another look.

    [​IMG]

    Then I ran a hose up the fire wall and put the vent in the end. I'll mount it near the battery tray.

    I welded up every hole in the fire wall, then drilled a new one on each side for the wiring harness to pass through. I used split
    rubber hose to make grommets and when I put the peel and seal on the inside I went right over the new holes to lock the
    hose/grommet in place. Then when I push the harness thru it is protected and sealed by the peel and seal.

    [​IMG]

    Same for the hand brake, this hole was torn badly and the grommet was ripped in two, now I just need a new cable for the brake.

    [​IMG]

    So while I rested from hammering I started wiring again. This is the left side wires in split loom. The right side wires come out below the battery tray.

    [​IMG]

    2 hours of hammering and the left side is finally out!

    [​IMG]

    New bushing installed.

    [​IMG]

    This one only took an hour and I could drive it from the outside in, instead of laying on my back driving it outward like the other side.

    [​IMG]

    The new bushing on the pass. side.

    [​IMG]
     
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