Ross box questions

Old Bill, I Thought About What You Said About The Reamer Being Tapered. I Didn't See That In Mine. What I Think Happened Was That When You Tightened The Two Ends Of The Reamer, That One End Was Turned Down Harder Than The Other End. If You Look At The Cutting Blades They Are Not Supported The Entire Lenght. Only In The Middle. Tension On One End Might Grab The The Beveled Ends Of The Blades More Than The Other End Of The Blades. Just A Thought.

 

Sink, If You Wanted To Borrow My Reamer You Can Pay The Shipping Both Ways And I'll Send It To You. Usps Parcel Post To 23451 From Here 07662 Is $3.85 One Way. Anyone Else Need It ? Pm Me. It's Not Much Trouble. I Set Up An Account With Usps And The Mailman Takes The Package Right From My Door. Over The Last Year You Guys Helped Me More Than You Could Imagine.

 

Reason why I'm asking about the Ross box now, is because recently/suddenly I'm only able to rotate my steering wheel 1.25 times to the right until it stops. I can rotate it 2+ times to the left before the tire contact the spring which gives me a nice tight turning radius. Even then I can feel that the steering wheel "could" rotate further but won't due to binding at the tire. But not the case with turning to the right. The tires could go much further but the steering wheel stops dead at 1.25 turns. Hadn't noticed it before, and can't seem to find other explanation (linkage binding, knuckle fill-plug in too far, etc.).

Last week I replaced all the tie rod ends on 'er. Symptoms prolly coincide with zat.

 

Nope. No matter how I did it, it was tapered. El Cheapo chinese crap.... I fought both for a good 1/2 hour to be sure. Of course, I didn't check the first one until after I trashed the bushings....

 

Jim While I appreciate the offer, I already rebuilt mine, I was making the suggestion to the others in this thread who were looking to buy one. seems like a lot of money for a tool they will likely use once and store in the tool box for the rest of their jeep's life...

 

It's possible I guess. But I followed the FSM instructions. Bellcrank is dead-center perpendicular to the front axle.
:?

 

Jim,

Where did you get your parts from?

I need to do this on my '68.

 

Barry, I Got Everything At Walcks 4wd. The Site Does'nt Have Pics But You Can Get Pics Someplace Else. The Nice Thing About Walcks Is They Have All The Little Bits And Pieces You Need For Everything On The Early Jeeps. They Also Put Together Kits For The Steering Box And Bellcrank And Drag Link. You Can Also Order The Parts Separate. I Called A Few Times And The Owner Answered The Phone Twice. Cool. They Are All Very Helpful There. If You Need That Reamer Pm Me. Good Luck.

 

Thanks Jim.

I'll give them a call after I get the box out.

 

Jim I can't seem to find this writeup on Vernco.com. Got a linkey-poo?

 

Guess what I found today... I rebuilt my rossbox a few months back and have only neighborhood driven since and all seemed fine... just finished rebuilding my knuckles, adding knuckle studs, adding front 11" brakes and 1 piece tie rod. when I tried the steering it would only go about 3/4 of the way to the right, all the way to the left (sound familiar?) :?

I was about to rip back into the knuckles when in an all-to-rare flash of clarity I disconnected the drag link and moved the knuckles by hand,,, VIOLA they were able to move all the way to the stops in both directions. I checked the steering box and it would seem that I put the steering arm on in the wrong spot. R)

Note to self: when dismantling a rossbox, always mark the location of the steering arm before removing it

 

HIPPO393, Go to Vernco.com . The page is green . Look to the left at the bottom. Click on Site Map. The next page has a list of projects. Click on Our 1951 Willys Wagon with a Flathead Ford V8. Then click on Steering Box Rebuild. That should do it . You'll even see a pic of the reamer. Good Luck

 

This should be done with a center punch on anything removed that is splined or bolted and balanced. I do it to clutches, flywheels and everything else, my distributor housing is even marked to go in and be timed within a degree or 2 because I punched a mark into my timing cover.

Alan this is an adjustable reamer.

 

marked with paint marker because I assumed the box and all contents were beyond rebuild. I was wrong...

 

Ah you know what they say about ***--umed!!

If the eyes don't see it, don't assume squat.

 

Sink, There is something that does'nt seem right. If the steering was fine before the knuckles were done then how does the draglink and pitman arm have anything to do with it?

 

steering seeming fine and being fine are two different things. I never checked to see if it was able to go fully to each side. the increase in turning radius was just not enough to become obvious in the limited test driving I did.

 

hey they had me in mind when they coined the whole aZ outa you and me thing...