Help- Engine Rebuild- Buick 198 V-6

Can anyone help me with info. I have a 1963 Buick v-6 198. It ran until grandma died and it was parked 20yrs. Now I can’t get spark. The car isn’t worth much. I wanted to swap to a 215, was told it would drop right in, but mechanic said it would cost $3-$4 grand?? It has the original 2 speed auto trans. The 215 supposed to bolt right up. I thought it may be cheaper to just rebuild the 198? I know parts are expensive. The engine is complete, I would need the rebuild kit. I could disassemble engine myself, have block, crank etc.. hot tanked. Just need someone to rebuild it. What should I do?? Rebuild the 198 or find a 215 and rebuild it? Thank you for your help!

 

Is it in a jeep or car? First off, 2 completely different motors. Second, maybe there is nothing serious wrong if it just has no spark. Third, do you have a 215? Kind of rare in buildable condition these days. Fourth, neither is cheap to build, find parts for and a 225 would be a better choice depending on the transmission, which is a 2 speed.?..Dynaflow from the 50's? Unless this is a rare restoration, that automatic had all kinds of problems, and I would call it a boat anchor.

 

First thing I would do is get spark to the 198, which shouldn’t require too much money or effort. I’d bet once you have spark it will fire up pretty easily, although it’s been sitting a while so you may need to rebuild the carb to get it running properly.

My 56 Jeep has a 198 and certain parts are scarce or unobtainable. If I was faced with needing a rebuild, i would used that as an opportunity to ditch the 198 in favor of a 225.

 

It’s a 63’ Buick Special v-6 198. All complete engine and trans. Auto 2speed dual path turbine, worked great 20 yrs ago before it was parked.

 

I’m having trouble figuring out why I don’t have spark at #1? If I change out to a 215 or 225 it’s gonna cost more than cars worth. Has the original 2speed dual path turbine trans. Hope to just service it and it should be fine? I hope.

 

In 20 years, fuel will varnish and quickly clog the carburetor.
This extended time can also cause seals to become brittle and crumble, in both the engine and transmission.
Assuming the original style distributor is still installed, have you to checked to see of the breaker points are functioning properly. Is the coil good? Are all of the critical electrical connections clean?
There are so many variables to getting a 'parked' car to run again. Good luck.

 

Usually caused by corrosion on the points contact, however, lets troubleshoot the system:

Assuming you have the rotor in and the dist is rotating while cranking:
Disconnect the distributor pigtail at the - coil post.
Turn the key on
Do you have power at the + coil terminal?
If not, then you have an open circuit between the battery and the coil. Probable causes: bad battery, cables, ground, corroded fuse(s), bad ignition switch, bad/corroded connectors, etc....
If so, prop the points open with a piece of paper, reconnect the pigtail and check for power at the points arm. Do you have power?
If not, then check at the coil. If no power at the coil - post, then the coil is bad.
If so, then check at the pigtail where it connects to the points.
No power means the pigtail is broken.
If so, check for power at the points arm.
If no power, then the points are broken/grounded or the condenser is bad.
If so, clean the points contacts, and, with the points closed, use your finger to open and close them. Every time you do this (with the key on), you should have spark at the coil wire.