67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

I don't see the problem. A lot depends on how the cylinders look. Scoring, missing cross hatch{shows wear}, ridge at the top of the cylinders, worn/loose timing chain, low oil
pressure, camshaft wear, lifters worn, condition of the valves, etc. It is on the stand and checking is the easy part. How deep is your Jeep fund and how far are you willing to go.

 

Since you’re stripped and clean, I would replace the timing set for GP. New chain and tensioners will make you happy. Kinda like the clutch, if you’re pulling the transmission, replace the clutch.

 

The problem I was trying to show was sooty debris on the surface of the pistons and some sludge in the crankcase. To be honest, I do t know if that is what my 2009 f250 would look like. If that seems normal to you guys, I can live with it, particularly with a good compression test.

Next “problem” that I found was some pitting on the surface of the timing cover that is part of the water pump. Again, I’m not sure if that is significant. I’m actually curious what would have caused it. It doesn’t look like third body wear. The pump looks good to me

 

I wouldn't worry much about any of that stuff. It's pretty clean inside for a running engine. Very minimal sludge. You could wire brush the top of the pistons, but you run the risk of getting junk down the sides into the ring area and causing problems. If you're not completely disassembling it, you're probably better off not loosening up stuff and having it get into places it shouldn't be.

 

You could put it back together, paint it and call it new. Like Fireball said, try to keep it clean and not introduce new problems if that is where your headed.
Also, the new clutch and timing set are good maintenance ideas.

 

The gunk inside the motor is carbon buildup.
It's a byproduct of incomplete combustion. modest amounts will clean up with fuel additives, sea foam via common vacuum line, or running the snot out of it. I would use a little brake cleaner and be careful about not letting the spray or soup get away.

I would be very tempted to pull it all apart, clean it hone the bores and put it back together with new bearings, gaskets, seals...
Then you could also replace... rings, lifters, cam.
The non sealing surface pitting on the timing cover is ok for now. How is the oil pump housing?

 

Oil pump housing looks good.

Oil pump gears look good to me, but please let me know if they look worn to you.

Thermostat housing has some hard deposits but is not close to blocked.

I’m not sure how to assess the engine mounts. Is there supposed to be rubber on the top surface in the picture, the one that contacts the supports on the frame?

 

Make sure you put the oil pump back together correctly and shim it if necessary. Also pack with Vaseline so it will prime. Several threads on here to read up on this.

 

Pump looks ok. New thermostat housings are available if you want. Look for the rubber tearing away from the metal on the mounts.

 

Like Rob said. The end play can be easily checked while the housing is off. You never said what your initial hot/cold and running oil pressure was.
I did not use the Vaseline trick, instead I used a pressurized tank to prime and made a primer shaft to the pump drive and used a drill to check
the oil pressure.

 

The initial oil pressure was high enough to leak, but I didn’t know enough at the time to write that down. The rubber on one of the mounts was separating from the metal.
You know it is going to be a good day when you start it off by successfully removing a broken, corroded bolt.

 

You could go back with studs for the water neck. That's what I used.

 

Is that to lower the risk of the bolts freezing up from corrosion? The other bolt I had to extract was also in the intake manifold for the carb mount. Seems like the intake manifold would be the perfect recipe for rust, so studding it sounds like a good idea.

I pressure washed the intake manifold really well today. I am thinking that the intake manifold and headers would do well powder coated. I know there are potential problems with water intrusion and rust propagation under the powder coat, but being in such a dry region and being in a location that shouldn’t get nicked up too much should lower that risk. There is a place in town that does cermachrome and porcelain enamel coats that are intended for high heat.

I have been going through the parts catalog and the FSM to start a shopping spree and saw that there should be a thermostatically-actuated heat control valve off the right exhaust manifold. PO put in headers, and I don’t see such a valve. I read where people sometimes remove it to help performance at mid to higher RPM, which makes sense for me since this will be my DD for a while.

 

The thermostatic valve on the exhaust basically closes one side a little and forces exhaust across the little passageway in the intake manifold below the carburetor for faster warm-up. They are prone to failing in a closed position, annoying rattles, and exhaust leaks.

 

Your Jeep and many others have been around a long time without any powder coating. Unless you are making some kind of show Jeep, i personally would forgo that thought.
I have never used bolts on a carburetor. Just my opinion and everyone has one.
Did you decide on a color for your engine.? Asking for a friend.

 

Buick green. I thought powder coating might be more durable than paint, but I like what you are saying; you just saved me about $500. Thanks.

 

You can send me the 5 bills. I only accept cash.

 

im was in a similar situation very very recently. but i decided to just go for the full tear down and hot bath. I already have the engine out, and apart. might as well just go the full 9 on it while im at it.

 

I am still stewing about how much to do with my engine. New timing chain and gears are on the way. I ordered the Cloyes 9-1132 double row roller set (thanks @vtxtasy). I initially couldn’t find it searching for jeep options, but it was listed as an option for the Buick 225 V6. When I took off the old timing chain off, the old chain alignment marks were off by one tooth. What type of problem, if any, would that have caused? I’m assuming when I reassemble, I should line them up correctly.

I took a peek at the camshaft and played with the lifters. The lifters moved very smoothly. I’m not sure how to gauge whether the camshaft is too rounded. Nothing moved erratically, and as I have written before, my compression tests checked out fine.

So, while I stew away, I did some cleaning so I am less likely to have crud fall into the cylinders, etc. and so that the gaskets seal well. I’m pretty sure the crankcase is Dauntless green even though the head assembly looks Ford blue. I taped off the valley with the lifters and the cylinders, scrubbed with diesel, and carefully hit it with brakekleen. It is clean enough for my current purposes.
The intake manifold is pretty clean. I’m thinking that would be easy to coast clean avoiding all smooth or interior surfaces. Is that a reasonable idea?

Is there any reason I cannot brakekleen the holy heck out of the head assemblies the way they are right now then oil the moving parts when I am done?

New u joints for the propeller shafts came in today. That is my after dinner project.

 

The visible cam lobes look good. You can brake clean the heck out of it all you want at this point.

As far as taking it apart further, it's probably not needed for an engine that had good compression and looks pretty clean inside. How many miles per year are you going to be putting on it?

A full rebuild won't hurt and will be good for 100,000+ miles, but it will be expensive on the order of $2500.00 or more. You run the risk of misassembling it, having cam break-in problems, or other things that can destroy your new $2500 engine. All that can be mitigated but you'll have a lot to learn to do it right. The learning can be fun and the sense of accomplishment of building your own engine is huge.

Normally I would say get it running and then figure out what it needs but you're far past that with this Jeep. It might make sense to just rebuild it for the experience and to have a fully new Jeep when you are done.