1955 Cj5 Moneypit Build

Is it possible my shocks are too thick? Looking back at my order, below is what I ordered but the order info says 4 rear shocks. Surely the front are different sizes? This was a phone order so I didnt think to double check until now...

Quadratec Maximum Duty Hydro 7.0 Rear Shock for 55-95 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7, CJ-8 Scrambler & Wrangler YJ with 1.0"-2.5" Lift

 

Is it unheard of to flip the shocks upside down? Will that screw anything up? I'm thinking the bar is small enough to clear my steering knuckle

 

I run my fronts upside down. No problems so far.

 

It looks like I may need taller mounts, I haven't worked that out yet.

 

I got a tub from willies overland motors also. On a thread for me a gentalmen told The back hack channels have wood in them so I seamed sealed them and painted over them. I hope it is not to late. Also I did raptor lined the tub under. It cost me 180 dollars but I got the gun and 6 bottles. I'm planing on doing the fenders too.

 

Nice work!

 

I'm planning on the same. The body hasn't been touched except some drilled mounting holes and other stuff to line up to the frame. I plan on seam sealing everything after I skim coat. Planning on raptor lining the inside and underneath along with the underside of the fenders. Going to color match the body.

Did you find the liner pulled off easily if it was hit? I'm finding some knicks on my frame... I used 2k epoxy primer then sanded with 180 and 2 coats. Once frame is all set, I plan on taping off and spraying one more coat

 

Tonight I worked on the shocks again. I spoke with Rocky Road Outfitters today and we discussed options; the main idea that stuck was to notch out the ubolt plates. So I did.

I thought this would solve the issue and it did JUUUUSSST barely at rest as seen in pictures, but knew if I flexed any, there would be rub by the knuckles.

So I decided to flip the shocks for now. If anyone has any ideas so I can flip the shocks back, please let me know!

I wanted to put my dust cover on the bellhousing today but my oil pan is rubbing against the flywheel. First time I noticed this. I loosened up the oil pan and tried moving it forward to no avail. This is a new crate engine that I got still in box from Jegs. The flywheel, bellhousing, and bellhousing to transmission adapter are all from Novak. Do I need flywheel shims? Any other ideas?

 

I let it sit for 2 days. I am still building my jeep. In putting the tub on the frame I did hit the liner and it did not pull off. I hope that helps.

 

The oil pan doesn't look stock to me and is probably chinese. All of my GM versions have, for lack of a better term, dimples between the bolt holes to reinforce the rail and also have plates spot welded for the 5/16 corner bolts. With the pan providing the cam cover seal surface at the front, moving the pan forward by elongating holes is probably a very poor solution that may bite back down the road. I'd be looking for an original stock pan. And, if you are going to be wheeling this in the rocks, weld a skid plate on it.

Here is what is presently on my 3B sbc. The stud holds the front of the skid under the transmission and transfercase.




As far as components and the 350, if you use some restraint and don't get carried away with tires, all will live. It took me 30 years to finally eat the D25 behind the 381 sbc. But wheeling would have been a lot more fun without the worry of hitting the throttle a bit too much and just cringing airing down the tires.

Nice project!

 

Thanks, John. For the most part this jeep will be on the road; maybe a bit of small trails to camp sites and whatnot. Not trying to build a crazy trail rig here. Tires are 31".

As for my oil pan/flywheel problem, my flywheel is on backwards. If you look closely at the pictures you can see the machined surface of the flywheel facing the engine... Oopsies I guess... I'd like to get to it tonight but may not.

 

No pictures tonight. Flipped my flywheel around and everything fits like a glove now. Planning on taking the rest of the week and weekend off; Been neglecting the wife. May spend a couple hours Saturday morning working on the transmission crossmember. Add 2 inches and a L on the drivers side and remove 2 inches while adding a L on the passenger side. The L's are so I can do through bolts on the side of the frame since I'm worried about threading 3/16 metal for a crossmember

 

Just got word my seats are ready to pick up. They went from this:

To this:

 

nice

 

Went back at it a bit tonight. Welded up my crossmember and temporarily bolted it up. Engine is straight with a 1" offset to the drivers side and transmission is looking straight now. Still an offset from the transmission to the axle but everyone here says that's fine.

The emergency brake drum is sitting about 2 inches from the passenger frame rail and measuring my mounting points to my t-case shift levers, it looks like my center plate will be off of fitting correctly by about 1.5 inches. Do I just cut to fit? Any ideas? Going to try to get the body on tomorrow to check fitment again.

 

Should I raise up my engine? Can go an inch higher.

 

I would say that’s close to where mine is. Do you have the headers yet? Put them on to see where the collectors end up. The engine does look a bit flat. What’s the angle on the carb mounting flange on the intake manifold? The carb should be close to level. Looking nice, keep up the good work.

 

Carb mounting flange is level. No headers yet... any I should look at?

Did you have to notch your transmission tunnel to fit? Looks like I'm going to have to widen the hole about 1.5 inches

 

I used the AAdapter headers. Got the plated ones but they still rusted in between the tubes. I looked at getting them ceramic coated but the chrome needs to be removed. I’m just going to blast and try the Eastwood header coating.
Didn’t have to notch the floor. If I remember, when I extended the shift rods the shifters were heated and bent in to position. It’s possible if I didn’t extend them they would be in a similar position as yours. I also have my engine centered in the frame which would only make it set more to the right.

 

@Oldriginal86 did you put a shifter boot on your t case shifters? I'm thinking of I notch then boot, it'll look original enough