Knuckle Puddin'

Is there a front knuckle lube I can use straight out of the can? What weight and brand? Can I use syn? This is for my 48 2A.

Thanks in advance........
Rit

 

It's not made anymore. But a search on knuckle pudding should return most receipes.

 

Oh boy, I shoulda done a search...................something about worms

In the search for "knuckle pudding" I did find lots of posts telling me to search further........

One recipe said 140w and STP..........do they still make STP?

 

http://www.film.queensu.ca/Cj3b/Tech/Lube.html

 

go to a farm equipment company that sales hay balers and ask them for the lube for the "bull gear" on the balers. It is the consistency of honey and is sSTICKY. It works very well and doesn't leak out.

I can't remember the name of it.

JB

 

Thanks for the help.

Good idea JB.

 

I thought this thread was going to be about something else...my mind needs a lift out of the gutter

 

Yes, equal parts 140w/axles grease and 10% STP.

http://www.autobarn.net/chst-1014-12.html

 

I made mine from 1 qt 80/90wt and 2 tubes of grease. Heated it up on a hotplate to thin the grease and stir until it is knuckle pudding. Put back in gear lube bottle and squeeze in the knuckle hole.

 

pump the knuckles full of chasis lube

 

Fix it right and fix it once.

140 weight oil, new seals and while you are at it, new knuckle bearings and cups which are ALWAYS bad.

 

I just used grease thinned with 90W gear oil. I put it back in the grease gun and pumped it in. I'm realizing that there is no right answer to this question...

 

Take into consideration your climate. Here in Arizona, I have ample heat, and not much cold. I used chassis lube only because with the high temps, that stuff is bound to "loosen" up a bit and flow enough to keep the u joint moist. In colder climates, you'll want the 140wt so that it keeps flowing.

Something to think about.

 

So, pardon my ignorance, but is this 140wt. oil common and easy to find at any flaps? Or is it a specialty shop item? I've never dealt with it before, but I'll have to soon. And is rebuilding a D25 front axle something that a moron like me can handle?

 

Ron, you'll probably have to hunt around, all I've seen around here is 90wt.

AFA rebuilding the D25, the only thing that may challenge your skills is the R&P. I'd just measure the backlash and check carrier/pinion bearings first and if it meets FSM guidelines, leave it alone. If you do need to swap out the bearings, then you'll have to decide whether to mess with it yourself. At minimum, you'll need a dial indicator w/magnetic base, and a bearing puller/press if you tackle the bearings.

The outer stuff is not terribly difficult.

HTH!

 

The local advance auto parts here has 140 on the shelf.

 

This is what I'm runnin' -

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=44&catid=4&loc=show

It was on the shelf at both the local NAPA and Advance Auto Parts.

Was afarid of leaks, but the knuckles are tight with new seals and felt gaskets. Wish I could get my tranny and xfer case so tight.

 

WalMart also.