L134 Oil Filters and Oil Pressure

Wow! There's a whole new world of jeep info over there... Thanks, Glenn!

 

From those pics, can somebody please tell me which line is in and which is out of the filter. My Jeep doesn't have a filter at all, and I've been collecting parts to put on a screw in filter.

I'm guessing the one going into the (timing cover?) on the passenger side is the return; but there's no need in guessing when I have a forum full of Jeep knowledge here.

 

:iagree: I agree with Glen, I have a spin on type filter on my F134 ( I kept the original canister ). One advantage to using a " bypass " type spin on is when running synthetic oil with filters designed for this purpose ( take Amsoil filters for example ) will stop a higher percentage of smaller micron particles on the first pass than conventional filters.
Some premium conventional oil " bypass " filters also have a finer media, It may come down to a matter of preference.
If you are running quality oil ( conventional, blend or full synthetic ) with regular oil changes there is no reason to doubt the performance of the old canister with a quality filter in it.

 

On my canister the in line from the engine comes into the canister at the top just under the cover, goes through the filter from the outside in, into the center bolt through a small hole then out the bottom returning to the timing cover

 

That's exactly what I needed.
Thanks!

 

Jalbrecht, Sent you a PM.

 

Let me throw a wrench into everyones Knowledge here. The early Jeeps were never supplied with a filter,..Let me refraize this. The oil filter was never a standard supplied item.
I know of many that won't use the old canister oil filters as the ealy one's had a port just above the cam shaft gears that was .070. This starved the #1 rod and front crank bearings. Willy's changed this after many failures on these bearing and went with .040 orfice. Care must be taken to make sure that you don't have an early timing chain orfice.
I can't even buy a oil filter from NorthStar Willys as they don't recomend an oil filter AT ALL!
I have two blocks in my garage now that have ALL falled at the #1 rod bearing.
The concenses on the 2A page is to use the bypass filter (it has a smaller micron filter) and make sure that you have the updated orfice.

 

:tea: Thanks for sharing the historical knowledge and a good learning opportunity, I took notes on that. Sounds like its time for some more in depth research on my end being a little more familiar with the later F-Heads.
I have seen a number of L-Heads with the canisters but they may have had the correct .040 orfice.
Thanks again.

 

To make it a bit clearer on the .070 vs .040 orifice issue.

The chain drive cams have nothing to do with this issue. They were pressure lubed from a drilled passage in the crank thru the small cam gear and splash lube from the oil filter return.

The gear drive cams came originally with the added port and jet drilled to .070. This caused overheating & scoring of #1 rod bearing under extremely hard use. Willys switched to 0.040" at L134 engine sn 3J-166871 and on F134 engines at SN 4J-250095.

Not running any type of oil filter or strainer is very foolish from the standpoint of engine longevity.

 

I just recently went through the canister(original) filter on my 51 L-134. No valves in there. There no doubt is some restriction to flow from the filter.

If you plan to paint the housing Duplicolor "Chrysler Hemi Orange" DE1652 is a very good match....

Here is half original and half Duplicolor




Finished ...nearly