What have I done & Thanks!!!!

First off thanks for everyone that helped out with getting my Jeep's suspension a little looser. I pulled the springs apart sanded them & WD-40 the B-Jesus out of them. They are now better making the Jeep drivable.

On a diffrent note:

232ci L6 with a 1 barrel carter carb. it was running super rick. black smoke, no get up, would backfire from the carb if floored from an idle. i replaced the jet with a jet out of a 2 barrel carb. out of a 85 CJ-7. it was ever so smaller. couldnt tell with the eye but it was smaller. with the new jet in there it runs a heck of alot better. more get up and go, no smoke, happy with the improvement.

STILL backfireing from carb. i was told it could be an intake leak. i've looked about everywhere and can't find anything not pluged. what are some tell tell signs of a intake leak?

also what is the timeing need to be around? i dont have a timeing gun ive just done it by ear where it runs and backfires the least. i'm borrowing one this weekend and would like a little idea where to set it.

thanks for all the help

SSgt. Maughan, USAF
Heavy ACFT maint./Elmendorf AFB, AK

 

A good start is set it at TDS and adjust from there. I would run it maybe 4 degrees advanced but just goodle the correct timing for the 232 I6 if you dont want to set it at TDS and adjust from ear.

 

Old mechanic trick for setting timing.
I've learned over the years that timing marks aren't "LAW". I've seem the outside of the haromic balancer spin, gears wear, timing chain slop, marks on the timing cover disappear.
We're ASSUMING your points dwell is set correctly, (dwell is beter than gap) dist cap, wires, and rotor in good shape, you've gotten rid of the gas fouled spark plugs for fresh ones.
First, make sure your mechanical and vacuum advanced work.
This whole set up takes about 5 minutes..........
First MARK your dist to somehwere on the motor as your starting point, (so you know WHERE you;ve started incase of a foul up, you can set it back to starting point)
Take off the vacuum hose at the dist and plug it. With a timing light find a mark (anywhere on the balancer and cover, as a reference mark), rev it up, the mark should move.(maybe 15 degrees).
Good?
This means you've got mechanical advance,(the weights under the rotor, you've over come the spring tension and they've opened out.Those pivots should be greased each time your under your dist cap.)
Then, rev the engine again with your finger or vacuum gauge on the dist vac. hose, your making sure you got throttle plate vacuum, (manifold vac works at idle, but you loose it for a few seconds when you rev it up, throttle plate vacum works when you rev it up and is 0 at idle).
Next, hook the hose up and rev it again, with your timing light, the mark should move MORE with throttle vac AND mechanic advanced, (prehaps a total of 45 degrees more or less. Again when you in your dist that pivot should be greased).
Yes? Good. your dist is doing what it's supposed to do, ALWAYS keeping the spark at TDC.
Now we can set the timing....
If you have a vacuum gauge, put it on manifold vac. (vacuum at idle)
But, if you don't, no problem, put it on fast idle from the choke fast idle cam on the carb, or crank up the idle to @ 2500 rpm.
Turn your dist til it revs the fastest, then back a tad.
Lock it down.
Get the motor hot, shut it off, and try to refire a few times. ground the coil wire to the dist, so it won't start. If it turns over nice, cool. ready for road test.
It if cranks, stops, or the starter cranks kinda slows (like a weak battery), it's too far advanced, turn the dist back a tad til it cranks fast and easy.
Cranks easy? Cool Beans and Ham!
Take it out, if it "pings" on a pull, too far advanced, back the dist.off a tad, (this is where a EGR valve that works comes in handy, pump a bit of exhaust gas in there to kill the ping, if you don't have it or it's not working, no sweat).
I use a timing light with a dial to check the total advance, it's a old Snap On light).
If you had to use a smaller jet in your carb, (the # is I beleive gas per something, not gallons, but it excapes me now). I use a small set of drill bit and mike them, but have used welding wire, anything that'll go in there snug and check the hole size with a micrometer).
I hope you wrote that # down somewhere???
Did you Check you float hieght, (the higher the float= more gas into the bowl into the motor), needle and seat?
It's weird that someone swapped jets on a 1 bbl, but not total off the wall. I think you put a band aide on the problem but didn't cure it, (but, I've been wrong many times in the past)!
I'm gonna bet the float sinks, (take it out and see if it drys, if you have a wet spot, it's filling with gas, if it's the old brass ones-you can shake it and listen.
That's half the fun of a old jeep-trying to figure out why:? the PO did that!
Joe
Just an old jeep addicts tips!

 

Years ago my '76 CJ (258) was running poorly. One symptom was the engine stumbling climbing and descending hills. I did all the usual stuff to remedy, nothing worked. One day at a local shop discussing the situation.......I was told that if I had a vinyl float, get a new one. I was told the vinyl absorbs the chemicals in gasoline and gains weight. Whether or not true, a new float (Hygrade FL-5) solved the problem.

 

Backfiring through the carb is usually a LEAN case. might be a intake leak. or vaccumm leak. get a can of break cleaner and spray it around all the intake and hoses. if your rpms drop or jump dramatically you have a leak