"new" 2100

I decided to order another carb that was professionally rebuilt. Picked this up from National Carburetors. It's a slightly different setup, so I'm trying to figure out where the throttle cable attaches.

Old:



New (hole not in the same location):



Any idea, or pictures you may have? Thanks.

 

The important measurement is the distance of the ball stud from the pivot. That determines how much the throttle plates move in reponse to the pedal.

Was this carb sold as a direct replacement for your original 2100? If so, I would expect it to have a ball stud in the same location as the original. My fiorst inclination would be to talk to the seller and ask why it's different.

You could modify the new carb to match, if you want. The ball studs are available from Holley. But I would not until I talked to the seller.

 

I'd advise against it. The end bracket is swaged (riveted) to the throttle shaft. To change it, you'd have to remove the throttle plates and slide the shaft out. The screws in the throttle plates are split (typically) and not meant to be reused. Also, rebuilders often use oversized shafts to fix a worn carburetor body - you'd need to make sure that the two shafts are exactly the same diameter.

 

Is the cable supposed to connect to the stud? My cable on the original is currently mounted through a hole above the stud. The new carb doesn't have that hole as you can see in the second picture. This is what caught my attention.

 

My 2100 on my 75 connected to a ball stud in the position as the first pic.. Your cable appears different than mine.. And it does appear that the cable connects to a ball stud in the top pic. You could drill a new hole and use one of the old studs. They should have a nut on the back..

Is that a piece of wood under your carb?

 

When I read ball stud, I thought of the stationary stud. Yes, mine does connect via a ball stud with a nut. My bad. My thought is to drill a hole in the same location as the old.

No, it's not wood. Its that phenololic (whatever) plastic resin material. The dark spots are where the gas is leaking through the gasket.

 

You can buy a ball stud that is threaded, like a bolt. I'd check with the rebuilder before I started drilling holes in the carb. But you can add another ball stud if you want to.

 

I would expect that brass stud to have been connected to the automatic transmission kickdown linkage.

 

It is on a Ford. Not on a Jeep though.

 

I will email this picture to National Carburetors and ask what vehicle this came from and if there is an alternative to me drilling where I'm pointing in the picture and not void warranty:



Here are some more pictures of the carb. Any of you know the vehicle? Sticker says it's "newer"

 

Again, here is my existing with a better picture:

 

There is a code on the carb that will tell you the exact vehicle this was originally installed on. Pony Carbs in Las Cruces NM has the info.. I dealt with them a few times before.. They ID'd a 2100 I bought off fleabay..

 

Interesting. The external choke pull-off suggests to me that this is a Ford 2150. Jeep used the 2150 too, but all Jeep's 2150s had a big aneroid altitude compensator on the back side AFAIK - not present here. I had thought all the 2100s have the choke pull-off on the top of the air horn, as with your original carb.

 

So you're using the original 2V Motorcraft carburetor on an aluminum 4V aftermarket manifold? With a phenolic adapter? Why not ditch the 2V altogether and buy a new Holley 470 cfm Truck Avenger carb? Except for the first few that had some kind of manufacturing defect, reviews of the Holley TA have been universally positive. About $400 new - not a huge premium over a professionally built carb... and you've got the manifold. You'll get equal or better mileage than a 2V (if you keep your foot out of it), and more power when you want it. And! Holleys are easy to tune, as carbs go, much more tunable than a Motorcraft, the tuning and repair parts are widely available and cheap, and you eliminate the 21xx problem with blowing out power valves due to backfire (new Holleys add a valve to prevent that). If I wanted a carburetor, it's what I would choose.

Plus the replacement Motorcraft likely does not have a spring-dampened float that Jeep used, so it won't be as good over broken ground as the original 2100.

:?

 

Yes, the 4v manifold is an edelbrock sp2p. I found the manifold when looking for a replacement to my original cast iron one with severely clogged egr ports and read some good things about it on the 304 related to fuel mileage. Changing carbs never crossed my mind because I wanted to keep it stock for the most part (even though now I was sent a non-jeep carb).

 

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-90470

So this will bolt directly to the manifold, and I can still use my stock air cleaner?

 

Yep, that's it.

Pretty sure your original air cleaner will fit on a Holley 4V and hide it completely. I know the diameter is right, if the bowls don't interfere with the AC body. I have used a 304 air cleaner with a Holley 2300 (2V version of their street carburetor - NOT recommended) and it fit like factory. The 4V should be ok too. Your manifold has more of a non-stock appearance than the Holley will.

The only other reason I can think of not to go with the Holley is that it won't pass emissions inspection (visual part) in some areas.

If the manifold is a 4-bolt square (Holley) pattern, then yes, it will drop on. Should be ridiculously easy - drop it on and drive it. The carb tune from the factory should be close enough to start. I would use an insulator between the carb and the manifold.

Holley has a chart - they say to contact Holley for a 300 cid engine. http://www.holley.com/data/types/pictures/TA_IntoZOOM.jpg They may recommend some parts swapping before you install the carb.

The electric choke is a neat solution too.

 

I'm sure that somebody on here has first-hand experience with these carburetors. Doesn't Chuck (Warloch) have one of these on a 225? Maybe post on the earlyCJ5 forum?

 

I just read some of the posted experience with the Holley. Googled some good experience on a 304. I'll think about it, as I'm still waiting to hear from National Carbs.