Build - 1970 CJ5

Howard Eisenhauer · Feb 4, 2017

the star wheel come in two versions- right hand thread & left hand thread.

When the silver part hooked to the cable & spring comes down & pushes against the adjuster teeth the two ends of the adjuster should move apart; if you have them on the wrong sides of the vehicle then they will self adjust bring their ends together which will move the shoes away from the drums in their rest position causing the symptoms of a pedal that gets closer to the floor over a short amount of time.

H.

FireFighter0817 · Feb 17, 2017

Howard Eisenhauer said: ↑

the star wheel come in two versions- right hand thread & left hand thread.

When the silver part hooked to the cable & spring comes down & pushes against the adjuster teeth the two ends of the adjuster should move apart; if you have them on the wrong sides of the vehicle then they will self adjust bring their ends together which will move the shoes away from the drums in their rest position causing the symptoms of a pedal that gets closer to the floor over a short amount of time.

H.
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Gonna check on this next to make sure they are correct. Just finished the new brakes.

FireFighter0817 · Feb 17, 2017

The new master cylinder is in. It did feel good to get back to work on the jeep. Didn't help that I hurt myself at work in the middle of this but it got done.

I bought some universal manual master cylinder/pedal arm/bracket off eBay. I bought it expecting to have to cut it up and do some modifications to it but surprisingly I was able to make it work right of the box.

This is the bracket and where I positioned the arm on the bracket. It is 14" in length which was able to mount to the firewall and sit flush against the inside of the dash panel without any trimming, worked out great.

Took the old MC out. Took a lot longer than I was thinking.

Installed the master cylinder and my thought was I had to mount it, cut the pedal arm and get it welded to move it were the original pedal was. I was able to mount it just on the left side of the column, leaves room for the clutch pedal and isn't too far away from the gas pedal. So I cut all the holes in the firewall, bought some new thicker gauge sheet metal and made it tie into the hinge support under the hood.

Then I bought a motorcycle brake light switch because before my brakes lights stopped working. Maybe a lack of pressure or something but I just wanted to get rid of the 2 brake switches on the brake lines. Had to buy a spring at the hardware store to make it work but seems to work well.

When I mounted it I cut a support bracket I didn't use, the switch kind of hangs down but I can live with it.

Everything is back together now, wiring is re done, new brake lines are in, brakes are bled and first test drive was a success. The brakes work the same as they did before in there best day but it requires a lot less pedal pressure. Might bleed them again just to be sure but the only tire I can get to lock up is the passenger rear, the furthest away from the MC? I need to buy a proportioning valve still and find a way to prevent pedal from coming forward (better than rubber zip-tied to column) but it's 90% done. Feels good.