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Frame Fixing Guidance Please

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by mpc, May 2, 2010.

  1. May 2, 2010
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Aug 18, 2005
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    I'm starting some clean up and repairs on the CJ6 frame I got from Baja Edition (Thanks Jim). Both front frame horns have tears around where the shackles were and cracks along the edge of the C as shown. The crack gets more faint, but extends about 9" to where the yellow mark is.

    [​IMG]

    I'll be using McGruff's plate to box this area, but what's the best way to repair the long cracked section? Should I make a cut with a disc along the length so I can get a good connecting weld between the two sides? I've read about drilling a hole at the end of the crack the keep if from spreading - Good idea or not?
    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2010
  2. May 2, 2010
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    I'm no expert by any means, but the replacement '47 frame under my '48 was cracked in almost exactly the same place. I didn't drill it, because I was afraid of weakening the frame more since the crack was on the angle.

    I pondered this for a couple of weeks before I finally ground out the crack some to get some penetration and then strapped the top of the frame. Slowly, about an inch at a time I filled in the void along the outside edge of the strap until I had enough to grind it down evenly. Looking at it now you can hardly see that the strap isn't part of the frame, and it has held up very well.
     
    Keys5a likes this.
  3. May 3, 2010
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

    Grand Mesa, CO
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    Stop drilling a crack is frequently done on air vehicle structural members. However, a doubler is installed over the damaged area to allow a suitable load path over (or around) the crack.
    Some may consider the following repair overkill, and that's OK. If that were mine though, I would stop drill the crack with a 1/4" - 5/16" bit. A repair angle, of equal or larger gauge, should then be nested inside the damaged area that extends approximately 3/4 of each flange width (that is inboard for the upper flange & down on the outer flange). The angle should start as far forward as possible and extend aft at least 4" past the stop drill. (This is a tough distance for me to evaluate given the one picture) The front of the repair angle can be cut parallel with the end of the frame (square). The aft end however, should be angled on each leg so as to taper to a smaller cross section as the angle terminates. If you have to transfer any holes to the repair angle, do so prior to welding. If they break out the edge of the angle, they should be blended so no sharp corners exist. A cut along the cracked portion should be done, so when it's welded, it will join to the repair angle as well. It can then all be welded in place.
    Adding a boxed section to that area is always a good idea.
     
    truckee4x4 likes this.
  4. May 3, 2010
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Thanks for the detailed description. The nested angle iron on the inside is a great idea.
    I was also thing to strap it per w3srl. All that along with boxing it seems like it would take care of it.
     
  5. May 4, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I cut the cracks and weld over them. I do a drill at the end, but rarely support it with an angle iron (remember the inside is rounded - grind the angle iron to match or you will end up with a gap that does no good - I just fixed this on a friends frame).

    Since you are going saginaw - I assume your boxing the front frame horns? I put a channel across the front, box the frame horns to make a solid square. It reduces flex and makes things stronger. I also build a winch mount with the bumper so it all goes together. If your gonna box it, you may not need the angle inside - I don't put it on there and have never had an issue.
     
  6. May 4, 2010
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Yes, I'll be boxing the frame horns and more than likely the entire frame since it is bare and easy to work on at this stage.
    [​IMG]
    Here's another part of the frame with an issue. For this I was thinking of making a metal rectangle the same height as the inside of the C, then inserting it and hammering it down the line to push the crushed part back out. I was also gong to temporarily weld on a support tube to the outside of the opposite rail.
     
  7. May 4, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    It's hard to reshape the areas with a belt on them. A lot of times I have to take the straping off, reshape, reapply strapping to get it to go right.

    Worth a thought - especially if your gonna box it. Do it right now and save tons of headaches down the road.
     
  8. May 4, 2010
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Roger that. I'll remove a portion of the strap before attempting. Thanks.
     
  9. May 4, 2010
    BajaEdition

    BajaEdition cj6 owner

    Riverside CA
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    Feb 16, 2009
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    frame is looking good, glad someone is getting use out of it. You should see the 67 now with the winch on it. I have those last few elusive projects to do on her and I start the 70 project
     
  10. May 4, 2010
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Yeah, it needs a little TLC, no biggie. Thanks again.:beer: I think I'll still be ahead of the game as opposed to stretching shorter frame. Pretty sure I'm going to box the whole thing. Saw your Bumper on another forum. It came out nice.

    I was going to stash the frame behind my garage until later, but I started tinkering with it already. Here's what its going under:http://www.coastaldimensions.com/CJ6B.html
    It will be a fun project.......I think.:rofl:
     
  11. May 4, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    I wish my frame was that nice. Turns out mine was twisted and rusted out in the rear, so I'm going to get some 2x4 3/16 and build a frame soon here, to CJ6 specs. I can't wait to get started, good luck with your frame it looks much nicer than mine was.
     
  12. Jun 22, 2019
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Bumping this old thread to ask some similar questions since I am making a game plan to repair some cracks I found on my frame. Here's some pics. Wondering if the above advise still holds for crack repair - drill, grind out a "V", then patch? Note - this is the bottom of the frame as it's upside down. I have just a little more wet slurry blasting to do today and then I'm going to buff off the flash rust all in one go.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Jun 22, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    I drilled mine out, ground a groove the length of the crack and welded em up. Then I boxed the frame.......
     
  14. Jun 22, 2019
    CJ Joe

    CJ Joe Truckhaven Tough!

    Pinon Hills, CA
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    Like Norcal 69 said. They all crack in those same locations over time.
     
  15. Jun 24, 2019
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    I would be careful about adding plates, it some times puts the stress at the end of the repair and it will crack in a new place. Never make a square plate and weld across the frame, I like to use a diamond shape to let the stress taper off in the repaired area. I hope this makes sense, just a suggestion.
     
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