Norcal69's Common Sense Build.

Love the Corvette crank trigger set up, and that ECM bracket is perfect!

A small part of me is contemplating giving that a try when I put in my TBI....Not sure I could pull it off though with beginner fabrication skills, and it wouldn’t help anyway without a means of converting the odd fire signal to something my system could work with.Maybe one day!

 

I'm hoping the locking hub will be the weakest part...... its the easiest part to fix in the field.
I carry a spare drive flange just in case I break a hub.

 

RCV axles are installed. There's really not much to see..... by way of installation.

The lower ball joint stud needs to be shortened. I installed the knuckle then ground the stud off flush with the nut.




The upper balljoint needs to be ground on for clearance.





Now its time for the *$(*U*U*$&@JLKNO#YV ....... I mean fun part.....
If you haven an ex that things went really sour with..... you will be calling these things the same names.....
This video is from RCV's website....... this guy makes it look easy......




The finished product.

 

Ahah, i have a hard time too installing mine. Its really a tight fit. They must have filmed the guy about 1 hour just to take the last 5 minutes.

I remembered saying to myself....i just hope i dont need to get them out too early

 

I tested out the RCV front axle shafts yesterday. 4 wheel low, ARB locked up..... I can turn the front wheels to full lock in either direction and throttle the Jeep up. No binding, skipping, u joint clicking! Just pure forward drive!

 

Been four years i have mine's

I use to break 1-2 shaft per year before. Never have to think about axle again.

Riding full lock you may come to the point you will need a ram assist. I was struggling with overheating fluid and burning pump prior going ram assist.

 

I am finally getting around to calibrating my sending units to the fuel gauge. I started off my putting 5 gal in the front tank. The sending unit was reading around 1/4 tank. I pulled the sending unit and bent the float down until it read 1/2 tank on the gauge with 1/2 tank of gas!!!





Next I added another 5 gal of gas to the tank to verify that the gauge would read with a full tank. As expected it did. Now I need to run the rear tank out of fuel, drop it and repeat.
I also picked up this USB cigarette lighter replacement. I had 2 cigarette lighter plugs in the dash so this gives me more versatility.

 

Pull the sending unit. Build a cardboard box open on one end the same height as the fuel tank. Put the sending unit in it and work it up and down. I got a few pics on my build. Should be the last page.

 

Got the rear tank sending unit knocked out this morning.
Previously the front tank would start out and read full but be down to empty when there was still 5 gal in the tank. I ran the tank dry, then filled it with 7.5 gal of fuel and set the float to read 1/2 tank. Here is how my float arm ended up.

 

Good work, i always find hard to make fuel gage work

 

More fun!!!
Last week we had our first 110 degree day...... still not a good enough excuse to leave the jeep home.
So off to irrigate we go. About 1 hour in to irrigation I noticed the water temp was creeping up. Idling at 200-210 is really not a problem when you factor in the ambient temp of 110........ but it was creeping to 220-230. No biggie... I'll set the hand throttle for a 1500 rpm idle and cool it off..... Wrong...... I was unable to use high idle to cool the engine because the flex fan was too soft and flattening out, thus not pulling any air.
I have had this radiator setup for 5 years but this was really the first ever hot day since the fuel injection install. My thought is that the A/F optimization of the fuel injection makes for a leaner mixture than the old carb setup which I always ran a little fat.
I started off and threw an old 6 blade solid fan on. This took care of most of the heating issue and allowed me to set the idle high to pull more air when the engine did get warm. The downside to this fan was the blades protruded forward and were completely inside the shroud. Fan to radiator clearance was also only about 3/4" which made me nervous.
So I ordered up this Dearle HD flex fan. This fan was definitely stiffer and had larger blades.... just a little too large......
After some careful measuring I trimmed up the backside of the blades and sanded edges.







This fan moves some air!!! It flattens out about 2500 rpm which quiets it down pretty good. At idle it holds a shop rag on the grill and any throttle blip will suck the rag through the grill and onto the radiator.
While I am dreading the next round of 100+ degree temps, I am looking forward to seeing the operating temps.

 

I always thought in your previous posts when you said "time to irrigate" you meant get some beer, but you are actually irrigating crops?

 

I thought he had to take a leak.

 

I'm diving into the cooling of the tux here soon. What size is that, and where did you get it?

 

I don't doubt your analysis at all. I'm wondering though, if you by chance had enough time to connect your scan tool and checked what the BLM and INT readings were. Could have been confirmation of what you were thinking.

 

The radiator is a CC2374 by champion cooling. Its a 3 row for a early Mopar. I modified it a little as it is a tad big for the CJ platform. At the time champion cooling did not make an all aluminum radiator for early cj5's, now they make a direct fit unit that works very nice. We installed one in Steve's 71.

CC6571 is for the early narrow grill shell jeeps with v6..... CJ (70-85) Aluminum Radiator
CC7071 is for the later wide grill shell jeeps with v6.....CJ5 CJ6 Radiator (70-71) Buick V6
The fan is a Dearle 17015, 15".
The shroud is a summit universal unit that I modified to work.

 

Last time I had the scanner hooked up the BLM was 128 and the INT was in the 127 to 130 range...... The A/F is darn near perfect as far as I can tell. The exhaust smell is just about right too.

 

Temperatures do have an effect on the fueling based on the tables. I was just curious if you had, had time to look.

 

I have an orchard on my property where I plan to build my house. I have also stupidly planted a bunch of evergreen trees, maple, ash and other fall color varieties that will create a spectacular views below the house. I have been going round with the the power company for a year now...... and stuck running the well off of a generator...... but we are getting close to getting something started for real electricity. Then automatic timers and drip system can be installed. Right now the whole process takes about 2 hours every other summer evening.
As far as beer goes..... no evening jeep work would be complete without a couple cold ones in the lunch box. I start off with a couple sparkling waters before enjoying a couple beers while bouncing around my 10 acres of rolling hills, moving hoses from tree to tree. The occasional wild pig shows up which goes wee wee all the way home with me. I have access to another couple thousand acres of private property to roam on..... but not enough beer in the cooler to fully enjoy it.

 

When i did mechanical fan/shroud on my jeep i got a standard flex fan and a flexalite version of the hd fan. I dont have room for the hd so i used the standard.

The engine temp usually stays at 180 but when its hot outside engine temp gets up to 210 when idling in traffic or driving at freeway speeds. I think i still have the hd fan, ill have to give trimming the blades a try. I think the standard flex fan blades are just too small and flexable