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Supertrooper's CJ5 build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by supertrooper, Oct 15, 2010.

  1. Oct 15, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    first off, please excuse the bad phone pics. now on to the jeep. its a '69 cj5 that my uncle bought about 15-17 years ago but he has so many projects that he never messed with the cj. luckly it is relativly unmolested with no added electronics or redneck engineering other than some saab buckets that have seen better days. my uncle lives on a couple acer property the next city over that he is letting keep the cj and work on at.

    how it looked the day i got it.
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    dont know if these emblems are rare or no but both are in good shape so im going to reuse them.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  2. Oct 15, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    about a month ago i pulled the top, doors, seats, and gas tank. the tank had some really nasty gas and sludge in it. the solvent and chain trick didnt work so im going to have it chem striped but the local radiator shop wants $80. anyone know of a place in socal thats cheaper?

    some more pics.
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    the worst rust was on the tailgate between the hinges so i cut it out and pounded out a dent in the lower right corner. this is a hint on what i plan on painting the rest of the jeep. i dont know how close the millage is, i found the speedo cable disconected at the t-case.

    also put it on blocks so a can pull and rebuild the axles.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
    Hellion likes this.
  3. Oct 15, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    today me and my cousin went over and pulled the front axle and took it home so i can start working on it in the garage. only hod up was stubern brake line fittings. ended up cutting the rubber lines since im going to use stainless braided lines. some wd40 and a breaker bar was enough to take off all those rusted bolts.

    got these hub from a forum member, some fresh grease, a wire wheel and some paint later.
    [​IMG]

    once i got it home.
    [​IMG]

    i checked the R&P and it says 41-11 for the teeth count, i think that makes it a 3.73 ratio. that should be good for the 31" tires i plan to run.
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    i also pulled the drums and verified that it still has 10" drums. i plan on rebuilding them for now since i have 15'' wheels and dont want to buy new ones to fit discs or 11" drums.

    oh, for anyone that was wondering what the wheel goes to in the upper left in the last pic. this is what im used to working on and explanes all the stupid questions. any advise you can give me along the way is welcome.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  4. Oct 15, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    That looks like a very solid Jeep!
     
  5. Oct 15, 2010
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Messages:
    3,294
    looks like your making good progress :beer:
    Jim
     
  6. Oct 15, 2010
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,019
    looks good!
     
  7. Oct 15, 2010
    djbutler

    djbutler Sponsor

    Rio Linda CA
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2007
    Messages:
    727
    anyone know what the brackets are for on the passenger side of the frame and axle?
    [​IMG]

    Yes, I think they are to prevent the front driveline from hitting the bellhousing under suspension flex and torque wrap combination. There should be a rubber snubber mounted on the end of the axle bracket that will contact the frame bracket before the driveline contacts the bellhousing. This is a V6 engineering 'feature'.

    Don
     
  8. Oct 15, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    i was able to take the passenger side knuckle apart today. there were no bad surprises other than no fluid in the knuckle. lots of dryed gunk in the kingpin bearings but no shavings or gouges in the kingpins were found. i have the bearings soaking in degreaser. hopfully i can reuse them.
    [​IMG]
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    the spindle bearings and races look brand new:D.
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    other than some dirty gear lube the axle shaft and u-joint are in great shape. the splines have zero damage the the joint moves freely and easly. should i replace it anyway?
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    nothing look like its missing in the brakes. i think ill just clean it up and put new shoes and cylinders then call it good.
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    i think i need to invest in a parts washer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  9. Oct 15, 2010
    Hawkes

    Hawkes Member

    Nova scotia
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2003
    Messages:
    490
    It's called a bump stop, and yes the rubber is missing.
     
  10. Oct 16, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    thats what i thought. it allready has the rubber bumpstop on the bottom of the frame so i didnt think it needed two bumpstops on one side.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2010
  11. Oct 16, 2010
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,019
  12. Oct 16, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    i dont think so. i dont plan on jumping the jeep and the threads look good.

    update: i cleaned the king pin bearings and the upper is toast and wont spin. the lower spins but the cage looks rough. ill be heading to napa for new ones. i already pressed out the races like vern said to on his site, worked very well.
     
  13. Nov 19, 2010
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    i finally got the front axle finished and back in the jeep. most of the time was waiting for the brown truck to show up:(.
    heres the new parts list:
    4 kingpin bearings and races
    SS brake lines
    "S" brake lines
    2 wheel cylinders
    Solid Axle diff cover
    knuckle seals
    2 spindle nut kits
    herm's HD 1pc long tie rod and TRE's
    stock replacement draglink
    2 u-joints
    warn locking hubs
    u bolts
    remote breather
    [​IMG]
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    the two hole TRE is hitting the spring, hopfully a shim will space it up enough when i lift it.
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    i also got the rear axle in my garage and the rebuild parts are in the brown truck. now i need to find a hub puller to barrow. thats it for today now its time for a :beer:.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  14. Oct 21, 2011
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    its been a long time since the last update. been busy with work and got back into shooting again. now that a couple rifle builds are finished i can put money back into working on the CJ. i have gotten some stuff done tho.

    cleaned up the trans cover panels and tryed some bedliner in a can to see how to holds up, no pic. cleaned and painted the driveshafts and replaced all U joints. cleaned up and rebuilt the rear axle and brakes, sprayed some fresh paint, slapped on a new diff cover and extended stainless brakes hose. repainted the rims and a couple other little things.
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    last weeked i installed some caster shims from mcgruff and now the TRE's clear the springs. also pulled the Tcase and trans by myself since my helper got called into work last minute. mehh
    [​IMG]

    when i got the tcase and trans home i found a good 1/2" of caked on gear oil soaked dirt covering the entire bottom half. i spent a couple hours a day after work tearing the tcase down and clearing, i went through ALOT of brake cleaner and degreaser. i already posted about the ebrake arm pivot that broke. i welded it up for now as a quick fix. the Tcase and trans internals look good and no broken or chiped gears were found.
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    the bearings look good and will be reused and the gasket and small part kit got droped off by UPS last night. i still need to order a new intermediate shaft and twin stick conversion from herm.

    cleaning up the tcase internals
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    freshly painted tcase
    [​IMG]
    thats it for now time for :beer::beer:
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  15. Nov 12, 2011
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    the trany and tcase are done for the most part. still waiting on a new intermediate shaft the parking brake shoes. yes, that is a ratchet extention hopding the shift levers:rofl:. the shift lever pin and clips didnt come in the box when i got the twin stick conversion but herm is sending them and should be here soon. i still need to wire wheel and paint the trans shifter housingand lever. the trany/tcase cover is also done except for the old shift lever hole. ill make a cover for the hole when i get some cutoff wheels for my dremel.
    [​IMG]
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    im staring to collect part to finish the brakes. i already have braided SS brake hose front and rear.just picked up a new master cyl and a roll of 3/16 brake line with fittings. im bidding on some YJ swinging pedals on ebay and im thinking of going with a hydro clutch conversion. i cant find anyone that rents engine hoists so ill might just buy one from HF when its on sale so i can pull the engine.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  16. Dec 1, 2011
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    i won the YJ pedals. i wire wheeled them and sprayed some primer last weekend.
    [​IMG]

    i picked up a HF engine lift for cheap on black friday. today me and a friend went to my uncles place to pull the engine out. no major issues, only thing that broke was the muffler hanger bolts but the stock exhaust isnt getting reused. i also took out the grill and radiator. the coolant looked nice and clean but the rad fill cap area rad some blue stuff inside. when i got it home and started taking off the upper rad hose from the engine i found the T stat housing packed with some nasty orange goo. other than some surface rust the outside is in good shape for its age. it still has the original paint in a few spots and the calve cover decals are still intact.
    [​IMG]
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    the clutch looks and pressure plate ok so i might reuse them. the flywheel has no damaged teeth that i could see but it is a heavy SOB .
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    on my home i stopped at a used tire shop that just opened to check it out. they had a set of 33x12.5/15 for $30 each that i couldnt pass up. the two on top have about half tread left but the bottom ones have a little more than 1/8" left. they are better than the dry rotted 3 different size and brand tires on the jeep now.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  17. Dec 2, 2011
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    i got a little work done todoy. the cam, crank, and pistons are all thats left in the block. so far it looks block and parts are in good shape. no ridges or scoring on any of the cylinder walls and the piston tops look good. im going to replace the water pump, fuel pump, piston rings, and put in a gasket set then rebuild the carb and oil pump. im also going to put in a compcams timing set, 260 cam and lifters.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  18. Dec 3, 2011
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Weatherford, TX
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2002
    Messages:
    2,231
    The wiring looks to be in great shape as well.
     
  19. Dec 24, 2011
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    a little more progress. i took the heads, block and intake to the machine shop to get clean since they were really nasty. hot tanks are not allowed in california so i had them thermal cleaned and they turned out very nice. down side was i had to have the cam bearings removed to have the block cleaned and replaced with new ones.
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    i also rebuilt the carb. i cheaped out and only got a spray can of carb cleaner but i think ill get a carb dip bucket and let it soak for awhile to get the out side looking better. my water outlet, timing cover and water pump were to corroded to save. i already have the pump and still need to order the other two. last week i got the block, heads and intake painted and also cleaned up the prestolite distributor.
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    since i had the heads torn down i lapped the valves. all the valves were in spec and all the valve guides were also in spec so no more machine work needed for now :D. the valve seats look good so ill leave them alone for now, might get hardened exhaust seats in the future. the pistons, crank, rods, and bearings are all in good shape and in spec and got reused:beer:. i honed the cylinders and installed the pistons and crank yesterday. the gasket kit came in today and the cam and timing chain should be here early next week. i forgot to order the lifters so now i need to wait on those too:(

    enjoy christmas everyone
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  20. Dec 24, 2011
    aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    Green Cove...
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2006
    Messages:
    1,929
    Very nice looking build. I like the color of the motor.
     
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