V6 225 Build

Finally got my motor back from machine shop. I painted the motor first, then cleaned. Shop bored .030 over then honed to individual piston skirt diameters. Installed cam bearings and hung new pistons on my rods and installed freeze plugs. I asked them to ream my oil pick up galleys to oil pump over .040, but they only went .020 over. .040 would of increased the cross sectional area by 10% to match the work I have done on my oil pump. .020 only gets me 4%. So now I have increased oil pump passages with TA performance booster plate, a 5/8 inch pick up tube (to replace 1/2 tube) with somewhat restricted galleys in between.

Motor taped and ready for paint


2 coats of high heat block primer.


3 light coats of gloss black


Took tape off and cleaned. Soapy water and rinse 3 times all surfaces and oil galleys.


Machine shop said they would get galleys clean. I told them to leave the galleys open. Good thing, lots of grime in there, but I got them clean.




Been following the Blue Print build when I can good stuff. Block is clean, all bolt holes chased, unpaited surfaces dried and put WD40 on them. Going to install rings next.

 

I think Terry's (Tarry's?) build log is a very important tip from that thread.

Block looks good!

JMO - black hides leaks, and makes the engine compartment very dark. I'd go with a lighter color.

 

Thanks, but I like black. Rest of motor will be different colors, heads silver intake blue. I don't think entire motor one color is attractive, although good for restorations.

 

X2

 

Nice job so far.

 

that looks real nice, i like it alot!

cant wait to see more

 

Today I did some measuring. I started with he oil control (bottom) rings. All the ring end gaps were between .022 and .035. Within the to of .015 to.035, but on the high side.


Next I checked the end gap of the top and 2nd rings. Top rings were a between .012 and .016 within the tol of .010 to .020.
2nd rings were between.005 and .011 so some need filing.


next were the pistons and bores. I measured these with a caliper and all the measurements were the same!!!! Bores were all 3.780 at the top (.030 over).
all the pistons were 3.759 at the top
all the skirts were 3.734 at the bottoms.
therefore all piston to bore clearance were a total of .021 or .0105 per side.
and all piston to skirt clearance were .046 total or .023 per side.


I need to digest this and find a ring file I have al my individual piston rings separated so I know what bore they go in.


Comments regarding these numbers are welcome .

 

I have checked all my dims and clearances. Everything ok.

THREE THINGS I WANTED TO MENTION:
1) Don't rely on machine shop to get oil galleys clean.
2) It's a good idea to check for misalignment of cam bearing oil supply hole with the oil supply hole in the cam bearing bores. I had a couple misaligned, but not severe enough to reduce oil supply. Need a mirror to do this.
3)Check ring end gaps even if your rings are NOT file to fit. I had three that needed filing to get within spec.

I'm at a standstill. I discovered that my bottom thrust bearing looks like it had microscopic porosity in it prior to machining or finishing. Even though I cant feel any roughness with my finger nail, it can be seen with a 20x glass. The dark spots are the area of concern in the picture below.



Clevite bearings supplied by TA Performance. All the other bearing halves were ok. I'm not going to use the bearing and waiting until after Labor Day to order a new set ($49) or have TA send a new set.


Misaligned cam bearing oil holes.

 

I’ve had good luck with sealed power stuff.

 

Build has been slowed:
1 bearing discoloration issue-solved
2 broke a top ring, had to wait for a new one-solved
3 at the last moment my son talked me into a double roller timing set instead of a stock set, should arrive today-solved'

Very happy so far with build. Taking my time and following the Blue Print build. Have learned a bunch and know my motor meets all specs including oil pump.. Short block very snug, takes 18 ft lbs torque to turn crank.

 

In your post #6, you were trying to measure the bores with a caliper. This tool will only give you an idea what the diameter is, maybe to indicate what oversize you are starting with. To measure bores, a bore gauge is needed. This is not something the home mechanic has, but the machine shop uses all the time.
As far as measuring rod and main dimentions, a micrometer will tell you the journal sizes. I always verify clearances using Plasigauge on a dry-assemble to double-check everything is good.
Just check and re-check, and make sure everything is clean.
Looking good on the build!
-Donny

 

Yea, at that time I was just getting a feel for it. Since I have used plasigauge and had a machine shop (other than who did the machining) chceck the cylinder clearance. Thanks for the info

 

Build is at a stand still AGAIN. My fault for assuming and not thinking ahead. Got motor ready to go in and found my thro out bearing had a lot of looseness and needed to be replaced. then I discovered my t86input shaft had play in it. I could not find specs for endplay or side movement, but pretty sure it is way out of spec.

.017 inches end play!!!!

Side play is only limited by the bearing retainer sleeve end ID.

I have done enough reading to know it is probably a bearing issue.

Your thoughts please on this situation, I know my options if I have to tear into it.

Thank you again for you help. It's nice to have experts to consult with!!

 

Most of that side play is mitigated when the shaft nose is held by the pilot bearing, provided the pilot is within spec.
-Donny

 

Donnie, Yea, I just didn't know if there was a spec for the shaft itself. Thanks!!

 

Waiting on clutch release bearing, should be here today.

Short block ready to go.


Decided to motor in as a short block so I could maneuver it easily.



Heads and other stuff ready to go on as soon as motor is in





New wheels and tires.



Other work this summer.
Engine bay clean up.
All new brakes, every single component and lines.
New shocks.
New instrument panel.
Better front and rear full axel change out.

Motor work:
Heads----New exhaust seats, new valves, new springs, new guides, 3 angle valve cuts, seals, removed smog humps in exhaust ports, all new valve train components. Parts TA performance, machine work and assembly Boydes Motor Works, Gloversville, NY.
Short Block---- Bored over .030, bores honed to piston diameters, pistons hung on rods, crank .010 under mains and rod bearings, oil pump feed galleys reamed to .500 inches. Of course cleaned and magnafluxed. NAPA machine shop, Albany, NY.

Stock rebuild, all major parts TA Performance.

Costs:
Heads 1000 labor and all parts. Valve train parts 250
Block machining 775
Rebuild parts 900
Miscellaneous approx. 500

TOTAL $3425.










Short block-

 

The input shaft movement should be fine. They move until they're inside the pilot. .017 doesn't sound like much but I've never been able to find a spec for that. I've definitely had some super loose ones. One thing you could do which is quick and easy is to install a new front bearing under the retainer. That would put you close to brand new spec if you feel its moving too much.

 

In post #10 I see you have a windage tray. Is that stock? Mine does not have one. 18 years now and I'm still finding out what PO's have removed.

 

It was just on the motor so I used it. Not sure if it was original or not, but the bolt holes were in the block for it.