Hub Carnage.... what should i do? whats cheapest?

Well, after a day of plowing snow, i realized my one hub wasn't locked in and therefore my 4x4 wasn't working. i then realized that all the bolts holding the warn hub on we're sheared off, my guess a couple loosened up and it domino'd the rest. anyways, i figure why not, let my try to just shove the peice of the bolt in the hole and try and lock it in, 4x4 started working, then the hub exploded. now i'm left with a warn hub split in 2 and 6 sheared off bolts...what is the cheapest/easiest way i can fix this so my 4x4 works again, i don't think i really need the manual locking hubs anyway since its and open diff (front axle). Thanks, (this is for a 1974 cj-5 with amc 232) i'll upload pics of the carnage in a couple hours..

 

I would think a set of axle flanges from a quadratrac jeep . didn't have lock out hubs . should work . might be hard to find. but never know you might get lucky

 

If all 6 bolts are sheared off in the inner hub assembly it may take more to get them out than to buy a new hub to replace. I believe your 74 has a Dana 30 axle with a 27 spline end. So what ever you buy locking or not make sure the spline count is right.

 

A good used bearing hub and either a used drive flange if you can find one or a used locking hub. I'd use studs and lock nuts with threadlocker to hold the studs in the hub to eliminate this problem for the future.


Sent from my iPhone

 

None of these parts would cross over to a d27 from a 69 cj-5 would they? i have one laying around.

 

The bearing hub will work, but any locking hub off a 27 will be a 10 spline. Usually easier to find a set of cheap used hubs then to find a set of quadratrac drive flanges. Probably several people around this site with both on a shelf though.

 

What Daryl said. If you don't have all the parts you and can't find them local out an ad in the classifieds. Also, do NOT mix and match the bearings and races from one hub to the next. They wear together. If you change out the bearing hub use the bearings and races that came from that hub (keeping outside bearing with outside race) or use the bearings and races from the other hub as a matched set.


Sent from my iPhone

 

What's this about Quadratrac drive flanges? The flanges for a '74 look just like the D27 flanges except for the spline count (27 splines?). Before about 1975, all CJs came from the factory with these flanges, not just Quadratrac CJs. In 1974-75, Jeep started offering locking hubs on the CJ as factory equipment, but plenty CJs were delivered with plain flanges. Thousands of flanges were removed to install locking hubs - there should be plenty of them still in existence.

 

"Thousands of flanges were removed to install locking hubs - there should be plenty of them still in existence."

On ebay right now -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1981-J...es&fits=Model:CJ5&hash=item2586911cc6&vxp=mtr

 

Thousands of them were removed by the dealer and 4x4 shops when installing locking hubs and thrown into the scrap bin. Time has not been friendly to the survival of the 27 spline drive flange. As the quadratracks get thrown away, as there is no replacement available for the front output shaft that wears badly and most really can't be rebuilt anymore, they are the easiest way to find them.

 

To add to what Daryl said, it's common for the splines in the drive flanges to be worn out as well. I have a pair I keep for trail emergency backups (also works for my full float setup if needs be) but it took me about a year to find a pair of good ones. They may be available new but that defeats the point of "cheap".


Sent from my iPhone

 

I have a 74 without locking hubs, they are always locked, I guess they would be drive flanges. I am switching over to wide track axles from an 86 CJ7. You are welcome to them, only problem is I live in Canada close to either Port Huron Michigan. I can ship them to you.

 

Given the fact that those sheered bolt aren't shiny, and the amount of rust INSIDE that hub, it's been loose for some time (might want to check the other one).

Since you're planning on new components anyway, have you given any thought to trying to extract the broken bits? Being the cheap bastard that I am, I'd give it a few hours of effort.

Waggs

 

I see penetrating oil, easy outs and a lot of cussing in your future.

 

I safety wired mine at all four corners.
It takes a jig, lots of patience and 1/16” drill bits to drill holes in grade 8 bolt heads but it can be done and I haven’t had any issues with loose bolts since.

 

I agree, I probably will you that route as i too am cheap and not 100% sure how to pull the hub without looking it all up and dont really wanna have to pull it all apart.

 

Judging by the amount if rust on that side I'd highly suggest you pull the other side apart and check it too or you may be doing the other side shortly.
Check the wheel bearings also. I bet they are rust pitted unless you get very lucky.


Sent from my iPhone

 

"I safety wired mine at all four corners.
It takes a jig, lots of patience and 1/16” drill bits to drill holes in grade 8 bolt heads but it can be done and I haven’t had any issues with loose bolts since."

They were supposed to be installed with lockable tabs under each bolt-head, as I recall.

 

WOW!!!

That is absolutely the worst I've ever seen...