Help, I want to drive my Jeep...

I think I have a Motorcrafr 2100 carb but I'm not positive on the model.
It is a 304 V8, the engine idles pretty good but when I give it the gas to drive it always
stalls out.

I read that the possible problems are vacuum leaks, timing, or accelerator pump and power valve adjustments on the carburetor.

I'm not very familiar with this Carburetor so I'm not sure where those adjustments are to be made. If if anyone could look at the pictures and see if they can see obvious problems or vacuum leaks I'd appreciate it. I want to drive my Jeep so bad.

I located and open nozzle near the throttle linkage I put a pencil tip where is to show you, not sure what that's for.

There's also a set of nozles near the radiator coolant inlet on the engine that are un-Tubed openings.

Thanks in advance.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/...1-73fa-4d24-b87a-28c68adaf1c4_zpszxhsjmrw.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc117/jeepmarine71_2007/JEEP/0226160837b_zpsnzkz2ej1.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc117/jeepmarine71_2007/JEEP/0226160837c_zpsevc9lahv.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc117/jeepmarine71_2007/JEEP/0226160842_zps9n9rmm9u.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc117/jeepmarine71_2007/JEEP/0226160837a_zpsnv1k01lf.jpg

 

This is a 1974? What's the VIN? You should put your vehicle information in the post, or add it to your signature file.

What do you want to do, put it back to factory condition? If so, assuming it's a 1974 model, all the information you need is in the 1974 TSM, online here Jeep® Parts Manuals online
All of the vacuum plumbing is described in the TSM. Look at the table at the end of the emissions chapter for a list of the systems you have. The sections on each system describe the plumbing.

That is indeed a Motorcraft 2100, the correct carburetor for your Jeep. The tag under the cover screw will identify it. If you decide to have the carb rebuilt by someone or buy a rebuilt, remove the tag and put it in a safe place.

The 2100 is easy to rebuild. The instructions in the proper rebuild kit typically tell you how to make the correct settings. Your TSM will tell you this too.

A bad accelerator pump will cause the symptoms you describe, but so will vacuum leaks. If there is a hole in the power valve, then the power valve is open all the time, making the mixture very rich. This typically does not cause hesitation on acceleration. Remove the carb and look under the PV cover for liquid gas, indicating a hole in the PV diaphragm.

The TSM has a very nice description of the function of each of the circuits in your carburetor. I suggest you read this - it will help you a lot to understand the issues.

 

I should have added that the carb has recently been re-built.

 

Yes it is a 74, I'll add the vin. it is J4F835TH85009.
I'll check out the manual.

 

A recent rebuild could mean a maladjustment. recently I went through my Carter AFB and I missed a coulpe of things at first that led to my CJ being 4 month deadlined. As timgr mentions it is likely a lean condition perhaps as simple as the carb base gasket leaking by the mount nuts not being quite tight enough, or reusing an old decrepit base gasket

 

Be patient, probably nothing bad. Just consider checking all carefully, only one by one.
It can be a dirty carburetor, or something in the electric ignition... Maybe you can find a specialist near your place with tools to check.
Good luck...

 

Just to note - a backfire can punch a hole in the power valve. Common problem with these carburetors. Your recent rebuild isn't relevant to that. It does make it less likely that the accelerator pump diaphragm is kaput. Typically these go bad after sitting a long time... I don't know if it's the modern fuel or the parts today are poor quality, but I keep a replacement Dorman APD on hand for repairs.

Yep, hesitation usually means the mixture is too lean when you open the throttle. A new carburetor base gasket is another handy thing to keep on hand.

 

I have a new fuel pump, that came with the jeep, that couldn't be the issue could it?
I'm gonna install it anyway, the old one looks like it has been there for a long time.
I'll check those things, thanks for your time.

 

Thanks, I'm gonnat try timming the engine.

 

Unlikely the fuel pump is the problem. Easy to test. Remove the coil wire, pull the hose from the pump off, direct it into a jar, and crank the engine. Careful of fire hazard - don't scatter gas around, no sparks.

 

To add to timgr's earlier post. Another tragic result of a backfire I found on 'Black Betty' when I was having all of those troubles earlier is a backfire can also bend a starter shaft as was the situation in my case.

 

Keep it simple is always paramount. Agree with all diagnostics above, I spent a lot of time with a minor
miss and stumble on my inline six, 258. After days of diagnostics.... I finally changed the fuel filter. After replacement, the engine ran just fine.

One important item, keep a note pad nearby for a record of ongoing diagnostics.
May assist more than realize? Have owned my CJ since delivery and never regret purchase!

Semper Fi,
Gunner

 

I don't think my issue is the fuel filter it is clear glass, the fuel looks clear.
I was gonna try adjustmenting the timing, but the dagone distributor shaft won't turn, even after taking the hold down bolt out.

Semper Fi
Shad C. Rogers

 

Be patient, be gentle. Penetrating oil and some time are better than breaking it off.

 

I think I'm gonna save up for a Weber carb, had one on my first jeep and it was awesome.

 

No way... the 2100 is great on a 304.

Put a new accelerator pump in it. That sound exactly like what it is.

If you aren't well versed in rebuilding carbs I have always had good luck with the rebuilt 2100s available through auto zone.

4 of them now have been bolt on and go.

 

Plus, a Weber won't work on a V8.

 

1. Remove carb.
2. Sent it here, Guaranteed Carburetor rebuilt carburetors - "In Stock", ready for easy installation.
3. Install carb and drive Jeep and smile..

The best thing I have ever done.. They preset everything on a wet dyno and it truly was plug and play.. rebuilt carbs are usually not preset or tested, just cleaned and small parts replaced and basic settings.. These guys truly impressed me..

Bubba

 

Really, Why?