Pocket Hole Jigs

I went cheap and just got the one where you have to clamp it in place with a pair of vise grips with flat swivel feet. When making face frames you might have to place it in many different places that might be on long runs. Sometimes cheaper is better. The screws also doesn't have to be perfectly square, you're not using dowels to attach, just screws and glue. When screwing your pieces together, use glue and clamp it so that when you screw the frames or whatever together, they dont go out of alignment. I also prefer to NOT pre finish as sanding can eliminate some issues and the glue will adhere correctly.

 

Guys, I used the single hole version. I have a pile of the flat swivel pad vise grips that i use for a lot of things. the jig had nothing special to clamp it with, just a plastic body and a steel drill guide that i set the stop on the bit with. I would clamp the material and the jig to the table and drill the holes. Some of my face frame rails or stiles would be up to 8 feet long, so there was no standing them up to drill the pockets.There is nothing to break with the single or double jig that I use. Its faster than dowels and easier than biscuits. Honestly, what you really want it to do is give you quick and easy clamping of the glued surfaces. The mechanical fastening at that pont is just a bonus. Wood Glue is VERY strong if applied and clamped correctly. You can buy cheaper flat pan screws too that work just as good as the Kreg ones. They are the same, just industrial.

The real expert here is Ryan. He makes really awesome stuff. Rounded cabinets and carcasses and face frames.

You can do wood working very cheaply. Using a steel guide you can make perfect cuts like a table saw with a circular saw. I use that technique to initially straighten rough lumber as I dont have a long bed jointer. Get a drill for the pocket joinery and maybe a mitre box. The cheap electric ones will allow precise cuts for molding or any other thing you need. A router is only required if you want a different profile or need to cut slots. You can also cut slots with a saw to fit 1/4 pylwood for the backs of the carcasses. Use a piece of steel to use as a saw guide screwed or clamped to the material

There are lots of work arounds to make great stuff if you're inventive. Remember you can work wood with a knife and a hand saw too. You dont need a lot of expensive tools to do good one off pieces.

 

Craigslist is your friend. Do a quick search for "pocket hole" or "pocket screw" before you commit to anything. Who knows what you might find.

I'm not a huge fan of the Kreg line that utilizes the stepped drill bit. The style that pre-dates that fad was the tabletop unit made by Porter Cable that manually used two routers to cut a swath, then drill the hole. It's a far-superior design that uses carbide bits that hardly ever needs maintenance or attention. I see them come up on CL sometimes for cheap. Their only downfall is that they only accept up to 7/8" stock.



Porter Cable must've sold that design to Castle, who now makes a professional line of floor units that are all air-actuated, but use the same basic design. for 10x the price.

That being said, I use the snot out of my little mini Kreg Jig - in places that are too big to fit in my Porter Cable. Or on boxes where I forgot to put holes before I assembled them. For the weekend warrior, I'd even recommend this little guy as your primary jig. I've used the bigger models from the R3 all the way up to the pneumatic floor model, and I've gotten the most use out of the Mini. It fits anywhere, has the same bit and metal sleeve as all the other models, and it's cheap. It's actually close enough in price to a replacement step-bit that you can just buy another Mini when you break the tip off your first bit.

Shop Kreg Mini Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Kit at Lowes.com

One more thing I will add... the "Vice Grip" brand footed clamp is superior to any of the Kreg clamps. Just my opinion, but I'd save money on the cheaper Kreg Mini, and spend $50 on 2 pair of Vice Grip clamps.

 

Love my K4. Started with dowels, moved to biscuits, made one thing mortise and tenon joints (uhg). All those tools are gathering dust as my Brother told me would happen when I got the K4.

 

I had a woodshop for 10 years and made lots of cabinets, bookcases, furniture, etc. I used the Kreg K4 on my install trailer on the job sites and the Porter Cable one in the shop. The hole angle on the PC is less than the Kreg so the wood does not "walk" as much. But they both work very well. I seldom used glue with the pocket hole screws. With a good joint and proper fit, they just don't need glue. I also could make correction in the field if I did not glue.

It is critical the thickness of the wood match for a good, clean joint. You cuts must also be 90* and clean. If you cut face frames you also must have the ability to duplicate lengths of stiles.

You also need to match the screw the hardness of the wood. Great system.

 

I've had a kreg k4 for 20+ years and love it,agree with allison.

 

I have the r3 kit and have built quite a few dining room tables and cabinets using it with a c clamp.

 

I have the K4, bought it at Lowes a few years ago. I only used it once (I don't do much woodworking) and I LOVED it! It was a piece of cake even for a novice like me.

 

Have the single hole and another still in the box waiting for the right project. The single hole has miles on it, handy and effective.

 

I got a Foreman years ago, it's air operated and is slick as can be. I Love it! I also have the regular one and carry the single clamp on one for on the job.