Early Vs Intermediate Difference

I have some pretty decent skills and like building. I am glad to hear that driving while I build is not out of the question. I’d be happy to share what I get and do here, However I doubt it will impress much as my budget requires me to plan out stuff then save up lol I don’t have piles of cash to throw away usually. Even if I did I am in the built not bought group.

Thanks again to all who have given input.
Really helped in my search.

 

I’m not recommending anything illegal here but I’m sure you can get an intermediate CJ and scrounge up a pre 66 title and data plate to slap on and beat the emissions nonsense. Not that I would know anything about that.....

 

Interesting. I have wondered how many people have taken a rusty tub n n done that. I’m sure it’s happened

 

Here's what I know. Had a 67 CJ.. It was nice and did Jeep stuff well. BUT, the driver compartment was so short that I had to put my heel on the tranny cover to use the gas pedal. . Even then I'd get cramps in my leg. It is a real PITA... Then I got my 75.. Problem solved..

 

What is the emissions cut off year in AZ?

 

1966

 

Would you say your 75 did jeep stuff well?

 

But there were Henry J's with the same F head and they weren't exactly speed demons either.

 

Kinda limits my choice but I don’t mind doing the work to one I can drive while playing with it. Hence all the questions about weather I could make do with the 4cyl till I could swap it

 

So you need to be older than 1966 or 1967 ?

If 1966 is good then buy a 66 Dauntless CJ and upgrade it from there.
Otherwise you need to do an engine swap.

 

I have seen 2 and 3 core radiators in (AMC)CJ's. 2's behind I6's and 3's behind the V8's. Maybe the 3's were aftermarket?

 

Regarding the Jeep 4-cylinder...

The Jeep 4-cylinder originated with the Willys Motor Corp in the 1930s. The 134 has a very long stroke, which gives it a lot of torque at low speed. This was typical of engines in that era. Torque is force, not power. HP is power, and HP is basically torque times RPM, so it's force per unit of time. The same force, delivered faster, is more power. If an engine's torque curve were flat, power would increase directly in proportion to engine speed. However, at some point torque will start to fall with engine speed. The shape of an engine's torque curve strongly depends on he engine's geometry - a long stroke means the torque peaks at a low RPM. Short stroke engines torque peaks later, and have little low speed torque but make more power at high speed.

With its very long stroke, the 134 torque curve falls off after about 2000 RPM. The long stroke also means that piston velocity is high for a given engine speed, which puts rod bearings at risk if the RPM limits of the engine are exceeded. This is the F134 power curve - F4 Engine Dyno Test on CJ3B.info - this engine turns really fast at highway speeds, and ...

I suppose, but the VW Beetle came to the USA with 36 HP, and was only 40 HP through 1965. Barring cross-winds, these were (are) quite highway capable. Howard can comment on that. The Fiat 850 Spider with 43 HP was said to have a top speed of 90 MPH. Wind resistance is a mighty barrier.

 

My '74-80 Jeep factory parts book says there was one radiator for model 80s 1974-75. Jeep PN 999435. Could be an aftermarket change, but I don't know whether the original radiator was 2 or 3 row. I have the original radiator for my '75 in my junk pile, but it will have to wait until the snow melts.

 

Yes wind will kick your butt. I am looking at a 66 that has a 4cyl and overdrive for a very good price almost rust free. It’s a clean lil Jeep. But I would want to put some v6 preferably a duantless, there is a v6 67 near me no paperwork but good motor I could get as a parts jeep. I’m weighing my options right now

 

If you get a '75, they have a cat and it should be really easy to pass with a new cat.

 

The most popular conversion nowadays is the 4.3L Chevy V6. These are super-plentiful ... you can buy an Astro Van or S-10 donor vehicle for less than a Buick would cost at the junkyard.

 

Ok can that be set up to run a carburetor? I like simple and not needing a laptop to see what’s wrong. I have seen s10 for free before

 

Sure. Early versions were carbureted. Many (most?) are throttle-body EFI (TBI), which can be picked up and transferred as a unit quite easily. This is a positive attribute, not negative - TBI is great for a Jeep. The GM EFI is well-documented and comparatively portable. Don't let TBI put you off to a potential engine donor.

 

Emissions for 1967 and older vehicles in Arizona is only for the Phoenix and Tucson Metro areas......all other counties are exempt...