F134 Setting Timing

So I took the Jeep on a nice drive today and just kept adjusting the distributor until it ran the best. It took awhile but was well worth it! I got it up to temp, drove a little while then pulled over. I would then advance or retard, lock dist back down, drive some more, and repeat. I now have the motor running the best it ever has. While I can’t gain speed on a seriously steep hill in third, I now at least maintain speed. We don’t have the Rocky Mountains here; however, we do have some nice steep hills and elevation changes. It’s not very flat that’s for sure. I can pull grades I couldn’t before, so something definitely improved! I am running 30x9.50-15 with 4.27 gears and stock 3 speed, so I’m not expecting much from my little 134! Thanks for all the great advice!

 

Hiya Pal, That's good for you. Old school way by ear is always good too . When you get some time ( PUN ) , Go thru the procedure & mark your pulley @ TDC. Then you can check it with a light against your ' by Ear " setting.
BTW, are you still running points ? A bad Dwell setting would really affect power on a hill .

 

No I swapped out my points to a Pertronix unit a few months back. I still have the plate, points, and condenser that were working fine in my glove box as a spare. I am, however, looking forward to actually setting the timing correctly and seeing how far off (or close!) I am to 5-10 degrees BTDC.

 

It fires right off, no hesitation, cold or hot. It runs about the same, maybe just a little hotter on the gauge than before. I don’t have a numerical temp gauge, just the stock one on the speedo. It settles in right at or just a hair below the center mark between H and C. It’s about 90 degrees today and I ran it for awhile. While I’m on this, where is the “danger zone” on the stock gauge? I’ve never seen it go above the middle mark, at least hardly at all, even last weekend in 100+ degree weather.

 

I am not sure, I’ve never checked it. I guess I now have a good excuse to go and buy a digital infrared temperature meter! I guess it should be noted I did install a new temp sensor sending unit and I have a 13 lb cap.

 

Getting off topic in my own “setting time” thread but since we were talking about it....I let the Jeep run for awhile and got it up to temp. I got the gauge to settle in where it normally runs (right on the middle line or just below) and here are my numbers with the infrared meter. I checked each spot a few times and these were the highest temps I could get at each location.


Water Temperature Sending Unit (in the head)


Passenger side block by dipstick tube


Upper radiator hose at radiator


Lower radiator hose

 

Your Hose & Block temps look good to me..... But about the first one of 186 degrees; is that pointed at your exhaust header ?

 

No that is at the brass water temperature sending unit on the back/passenger side of the head. I was getting a constant 170-175 on it but did find a spot that went to 185. I also attribute this to the meter, it wasn’t very expensive. That was the hottest spot I could find. All these temps I checked numerous times. I checked each location at different distances away and these numbers were the hottest I could find. My exhaust manifold was like 480 degrees! Instant burn!

 

No, it was spinning. I had the engine running the entire time, just must not have caught it on camera.

 

OK..... You may have found a rouge hot spot...... but I think your flowing fine. From my memorie of my '69 CJ5 , That's right were the needle is positioned when reading OK. Btw, the first thing I did when I took over control of my ' Rosie ', was to install mechanical Gauges. I felt like I was hang'n out to dry without them !

 

I found the back of the block was more constant and hotter than the front. the front would cycle hot to cold with the thermostat. I had good luck running a "heavy duty" thermostat not a safety but one with v notches in the brim to soften the cycle and I eventually ran a 195deg thermostat and 16mpg with everything else in perfect working order.

 

Thanks for putting my mind at ease fellas

 

IR readings of shiny metal surfaces are not accurate unless corrected for emissivity. Dull or oxidized metal (like your exhaust manifold) will give you a more accurate temp. Your coolant hose readings are useful, but the upper inlet reading is likely influenced by the hose clamp. Measure the rubber hose, clear of the clamp.