Yj Spring Conversion

Here is my summary on the Rocky Road YJ spring lift, for those who might find it helpful. Again, thanks to those who did previous write-ups with suggestions on tools, etc!

I previously had a BDS 2.5" spring under lift with slightly longer shackles. I was never happy with ride, even with the tires aired down and adjustable shocks. But our roads are very rough.

I went with the spring under 3.5" OME kit with heavy duty front and rear, and the cheaper shocks. RR recommended heavy duty front and rear (I was hesitant on the rear because soft ride was the goal). In the front, I have a c channel front bumper with a 8274 winch with steel cable and a simple pipe grill guard. In the back I have a rear tank, bumper w/ swing out tire carrier, 33x10.50 tire, and highlift jack.

Overall, the installation went ok. Some spacers were missing from the kit, but RR sent me the missing parts for free and without much explaining. There was a lot of drilling, so sharp bits, cutting fluid, reamers were necessary. A 90 degree drill also came in handy. I also had to do some welding and bracing on my rear shackle hanger (they aren't replaced with kit) since they had bent inward and cracked at the rear cross member location. Also one of my spring hangers was not welded on centered with frame, so that needed a lot of grinding to allow the bracket to slide over it. Finally, even though it is not limited to this lift, the stock shock mounts on the frame are just not wide enough for modern shocks...I kinda wish I had done the front shock tower relocation while I had all my tools out.

The front sits noticeably higher than the BDS did but I did also lose about 50lbs up there with my winch mount change. The whole jeep is also alittle higher. The front shackle ended up about where it is supposed to (bottom slightly angled forward). The rear shackle is straight up and down despite the weight listed above, full tank of gas and a 50lb hitch basket attached. I don't have any shims on the front, and the alignment came back ok (although I am still suspicious of it).

The rear springs clear the gas tank skid plate on the rear with some trimming. I haven't flexed it out yet, so more trimming may be necessary.

I only have a few miles on it at this point and the ride is softer. It didn't do anything for the bucking, but that is life with short wheelbase. Once I break in the springs, I'll repost about the outcome and whether it was worth it.

 

That is one attractive jeep.

 

Nice. I'm saving my pennies to do this someday.

 

I wonder if this would work in a flatty...

 

In your 1st pic, it looks like the rear wheel is not centered in the wheel well...is that the case or is it just the angle of the photo?

 

I don’t think it is centered, but by the time the spring compresses, the tire kisses the bottom rear of the arch. The fender flare might also do alittle optical illusion making it worse

 

When the spring compresses, moves the shackles rearward and pushes the axle back. If the wheel was centered it would hit the body before the full compression would be had. Thats why high lift vehicles have comp cuts. When i set mine up I compensated for that by cutting the tub wheel recess a larger diameter.

 

I just think it's the loose fender flare

 

I think its the vise grips on the windshield making the back tire look off...

 

You don’t like my custom method for keeping the bikini top rolled up while not in use?

 

Just the opposite, I applaud your ingenuity.

 

seriously though, I am looking for a better way to do that.
The intermediate window frame is a new addition, and I don't think I have room for a footman loop on the front to tie a strap to. Putting the top in the it in the little channel is a pain in the ____.

 

Springs will settle a little over time. Over all. I'm still happy I did the conversion.

 

On a fatty I would suggest using oe width rear springs (from the manufacturer of your choice) on all 4 corners. On the front it involves moving the shackle support to the front of the frame and moving the rear hanger back one length.

 

What shocks? Different shocks may be able to tune the ride to your satisfaction. Good luck!

 

I finally got a few ranch road miles on the new springs. It is noticeably softer and significantly reduced the jarring jolts. It does have more side to side sway.

I did notice that I already had some interference with my steering knuckle and the shock body (small dents and missing paint). When I flexed it, I saw the problem and at full compression I can’t turn in much without the knuckle hitting the shock body. Makes me regret keeping the Dana27 even more. I also need longer bump stops in the rear. I have about 1” of shock travel but 2-3” until I hit my 4” tall bump stops.

Anyone have a solution to the front shock interference? I already have them mounted with the body on top and rod end facing down.

 

Move them to the back or top of the axle, or scope creep to a D30.

 

Well I guess I am committed to this dana27 now so it looks like moving around the shocks are on the after hunting season to do list.

 

Your shocks are upside down. You will get a better drive and less side to side sway if you turn them the proper direction...... BTDT.
When we installed this kit on steve's 71, we cut the shock mount off flush with the spring plate to give the shock more room.