62 Cj5. The Miami Project.

Had to convince a stud or two to let the nut pass...

 

Clutch went in with no problems, as expected.

 

Wonderful!! I know the feeling to get all that back on the frame! Looks fantastic!

 

I see what looks like a Blanchard grind on the flywheel. Did you send it out, after your turning it on the lathe?
Also, hows the runout with the bellhousing I dropped off for you to try?
-Donny

 

Keen eye! I was not completely happy with the finished product. I want to do everything as good as possible to the extent of my possibilities and I did not want to risk having to disassemble all again just because "it looked fine". I found a machine shop in Opa Locka that did it for 25 bucks. Honestly, came out better that what I had done. I tried the lathe because I like to do things myself and because I have access to one, but it did not feel right to install it like that. I was not pleased.

The last try I attempted with my bell housing and the contraptions I fabricated to act as offset dowel pins yielded amazing results! I was fiddling with it and snapped one of those brazed bolts off. Then with one installed and a regular bolt on the other guide I started to turn the offset bolt until I got it down to 0.003 TIR. Tightened all the bolts half way and I realized I could fit one of the original dowel bolts in the guide where I had the regular one. Snug fit, re-checked and it stayed under 0.004 TIR. I made sure I marked the position of the offset to mount it the same upon re-installing the bell housing after mounting the clutch and pressure plate. I think it went better than expected. Oh, by the way (I don't know it that made a difference) I stoned the mating surface of my bell housing and cleaned again the section of the block it touches. I noticed several shiny spots, so maybe that was the cause of such horrible readings. Let me know when do you want your piece back. Thanks a million!

 

I had installed the new u-bolts and shim! Shock absorbers are in also! I have plenty of clearance on my TRE over the springs, an issue I corrected with the shims. Maybe in the future I will do a try rod flip, but for now I am happy. The old u-bolts were not in a good shape. Next step: steering. I need a worm tube and steering wheel to put that section to rest.

 

I am having second thoughts about converting to hanging pedals. I think for the time being, I will use the original configuration and in the future, if I think is not working out the way I want I might go ahead and change them. For now I will go with what is already there, replacing any worn out parts with good ones. That brings me to the next issue: since I will not (for now) install a MC on the firewall and I am converting to front disks, which MC can I use that will work with disk/drum that I can install in the frame?

 

Herm has a dual cylinder kit that I used. I also used a proportioning valve from Cherokee with disk/drum from u-pull-it. New valve is like $75 from Herm.

 

Thanks! Do you remember the year of the Cherokee? Or at least the specs of the valve needed?

 

Nope, I think what matters is that it was disk/drum vehicle that the valve came from.

 

That is what I thought. I am mot trailing at all with it, and I do not run over puddles of water that might splash up. I'm getting all the parts needed to bring my set up to new-like condition and I will take good care of the lubrication part.

 

Front driveshaft in...

 

Awesome! looks brand new!!!

 

Thanks!

 

For some reason I just now discovered this thread. Great work bringing things back! I'm subscribed for more!

 

Thanks a lot! I wish I could go faster, but I have a ton of other projects (honey-do list) pending. Slowly but surely will get this baby back on the road.

 

Alex, back to your January photos of the backup light switch on the shifter top. I assume the push switch acts directly on the end of the shift rod? Did you seal the shaft? If not, I would expect an oil leak when things are hot and operating.
-Donny

 

How do I do that? There is no space in between the rod and the housing. And the reverese rod at least, goes all the way out, so a cap is out of the question.

 

Besides, a real jeep leaks oil...