1957/12v/m38a1 Tub/ Custom Wiring Help

hi,
like title says, I have a 1957 frame/engine, f134 (from the serial number tag) but then it's topped with a m38a1 tub. Not a scrap of original wiring on this thing.
I've spent the last year or so getting it running, so I know MOST of the wiring works ( lights, turn signals, horn, ignition)
however, I cannot get the battery to charge. Still has the Generator and voltage regulator.
I can get pics if that helps, but basically, it has the 3 wires running from generator to volt reg, then has ONE wire (batt) running from volt reg into the cab. it's not plugged in anywhere though.

I've seen lots of diagram pics and they all show wiring for the cj5 cluster. Mine has all individual guages. My oil pressure is mechanical and the temp gauge is not the electrical kind.

I do NOT have the circuit breaker on the back of my light switch. There is a Ammeter but it's not connected.

I'm not looking for dash lights right now, I don't even care if the Ammeter is hooked up. I put my battery on a tender to keep it charged.

The diagrams I've seen that most relate to my set up have another small wire running from the volt reg to the started solenoid. Mine doesn't have that wire. if I run another short wire from the volt reg to the starter solenoid, would that complete the wiring set up and start charging the battery? I know I have to get it up around 2k RPMS for the generator to start charging.

any ideas?

thanks

 

generator problem?

 

@Tyler, I don't think so. I think it's not wired in correctly. I'm not sure though, that's why I'm asking

 

me nuther, im kinda just guessing

 

I had an alternator with external regulator in mine and it gave me fits. Eventually went to a one wire alternator and all was well.

Not sure if any of the diagrams here may be helpful to get your generator wired correctly. If you’re not running an ammeter, it looks like the 4th regulator wire would go straight to the battery, but don’t quote me on that: Wiring Schematics

 

I started over on my A1 with an EZ wire harness. Well worth it IMO. Not a fan of the one wire alternators, I used a 10SI in the 3 wire format.

 

x2 on 10SI

 

thanks guys, all good info. hopefully when it's not 28 degrees outside and in my pole barn I'll go out and triple check my current wiring and compare to the diagrams provided.
I'll keep in mind the 10si upgrade for the future. I have PA antique plates on it and I don't really plan on driving it much. I don't even have wipers installed yet

 

my wiper motor isnt hooked up, and no blade. not even a way to use it (theres only one)

 

I was just fighting this fight the last couple of days on my 12V generator/F134.

For me, I ended up starting at the basics and confirming the generator itself was good.

I disconnected all the wires to the generator, jumped the ground screw to the small diameter terminal (in my case it was a 3/8 bolt) (Field/F).

I then ran a temporary wire from the negative battery terminal to the same ground terminal on the generator.

To ensure proper polarization, I touched the positive battery terminal to the large diameter terminal on the generator (7/16 bolt) (Armature/A)

Started up the engine, tossed a volt meter from the negative battery terminal (you could also take it from either the F or Ground lug on the generator) and the positive lead to the A Terminal on the generator. At idle I was seeing 3 to 4 volts. Bumped the throttle a bit (I believe at around 1000 RPM the generator should be generating about battery voltage) until the voltage climbed. At a fast idle it was holding 13ish volts, I don't know what the RPM was scientifically, but by ear I would call it a 1000 rpms.

The wiring from the generator is pretty straight forward, the Field Terminal (small diameter) goes to the F terminal on the control box, the Armature Terminal (large diameter) goes to the A terminal and I ran a ground between the control box and the generator.

For some reason my Control box is controlling the generator to 12 volts, but my Cut Out Relay isn't cutting in. I've ordered a new Voltage Control box.

Now for the disclaimers, this worked for me, I'm 99% certain my generator is a 'A' type circuit (the name plate is long missing and my generator looks nothing like the 'stock' prestolite listed as the correct generator for the F134), jumping the ground wire to the field can cause the end of the world, or possibly burn up the generator.

 

Thanks everyone for the assist. I used the diagram above and my battery is charging!!! i don't have the ammeter in place yet. I might add it later after i drive the jeep around a little and enjoy it now that the weather is nice.

 

Don't need 'em with the windshield folded down.

 

Modern wiring would skip the ammeter and instead install a voltmeter. Not as dramatic as the ammeter movement, but arguably tells you as much. The wiring is significantly safer and requires a lot less and smaller wire.

Won't pass safety inspection here without wipers.

 

Amen X2!