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Need Help Finding A Drag Link For My 1966 Cj5

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Norton, Mar 1, 2022.

  1. Norton

    Norton New Member

    Hi Guys,
    I need some help from your vast database of knowledge. I myself don't know hardly anything, and am having a heck of a time locating the correct part. I have a 1966 CJ5 with a 225 v6 in it. It has power steering, though I couldn't tell you if it is original or an add on later.
    I was flat towing the jeep, and when I got to my destination, the drag link was missing. Yep, just gone.....
    So now I need a new one. I don't mind if I can buy just the drag link itself, or if I get the drag link and the connector both.
    I can tell you that the distance from center to center of the tie rods is 23.5 inches. This is the dimension for the pitman arm to the tie rod on the passenger side. (the missing piece.)
    Distance of the connecter that goes from knuckle to knuckle is 37.5" from center to center of tie rods. (This piece I have, but wouldn't mind replacing since I am down there.)
    I have included pictures, let me know if I need to post more information.

    Thank you very much!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    o_O

    Any chance someone stole it?
     
    Norton likes this.
  3. Norton

    Norton New Member

    Man, if so, they earned it. I only stopped once to get coffee and go to the restroom. They must of came prepared, since I was only inside for a couple minutes.
     
  4. CJ51973

    CJ51973 Member

    You could probably get one made at a machine shop. I don't know if anyone makes a kit for this conversion anymore. Others may?
     
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  5. jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Might try Advanced Adapters. They still offer a conversion kit which includes the drag link. I would assume they would sell that component separately.
     
    Norton likes this.
  6. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I would first try my local 4x4/Jeep forum. Likely there is someone in the area that can make tie rods to custom length. Your local 4x4 shop probably has a way to make them, but if you ask on a local forum, you may skip the middleman.

    Or try Herm. He has a one-piece tie rod kit which I believe he makes himself. www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com

    If you want, you can buy the material and taps and make a new tie rod yourself. Not difficult from a fab perspective, but I understand the taps (LH and RH thread) are expensive.

    Look at how few threads are bright (ie not rusted) on the passenger side tie rod end. I would suspect that there was not enough tie rod end threads in the tie rod. This made the clamp ineffective and with the vibration of towing, it simply fell off.
     
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  7. Norton

    Norton New Member

    Ironically, I manage an aerospace machine shop. I was hoping I could buy one and not have to make it. We make alot more money making aerospace parts than parts for my jeep!
     
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  8. Norton

    Norton New Member

    I suspect there was very few threads making contact as you said, there was only a couple threads that were not rusty. I will give herm a look!
     
  9. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    First year for factory power steering in a CJ is 1972. Saginaw steering, power or not, is a very popular mod for earlier examples. If you can't tell that it's not factory, that's good. Possibility of PO hackery in this area is high.
     
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  10. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    How long have you had the Jeep? I assume you bought it that way (already converted). Can you contact the seller and let them know what happened? It has got to be pure luck that the wheels stayed straight while being towed.
     
  11. truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  12. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  13. CJ Joe

    CJ Joe Truckhaven Tough!

    In looking at your pictures it appears to me that your pitman arm is upsidedown. As such, any measurement would be wrong until corrected. And the current configuration does not help your steering geometry.
     
  14. Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    Lucky it happened under tow. If the drag link fell off while driving the Jeep you would probably need more than a new rod, or maybe not depending on whether you survived the crash. Just about any 4X4 shop, or front end alignment shop, should be able to come up with what you need.
     
    Norton likes this.
  15. CJ51973

    CJ51973 Member

    I just noticed that. You'll want the drag link as close to flat/parallel with the tierod as possible. That angle probably made the drag link too short/low thread engagement.
     
    Norton likes this.
  16. Peter Dorey

    Peter Dorey Member

    Norton,

    There are Jeep specific salvage yards scattered around the country as well. We have one here in San Diego called Hard Rock 4X4. You can e-mail them a picture of the drag link and they will get back to you:
    https://new.jeep911.com/
     
    Norton likes this.
  17. Norton

    Norton New Member

    I have had it for 7 or 8 months now. This was my first long outing with it. The previous owner said he got it as a project from another guy. He got it running good and sold it to me.
    Lesson learned, when its this old, do some torque checks from time to time.....
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2022
  18. Norton

    Norton New Member

    I will flip and remeasure!!!! Thank you for this attention to detail!
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2022
  19. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    I would definitely check every nut and bolt on it before going anywhere else with it. You're lucky you weren't driving it at the time.
     
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  20. Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Typically, the pitman arms are on a tapered spline, and cannot be mounted up-side-down. My guess is, somebody heated the pitman arm with a torch and bent it up to that position. I would find another pitman arm, either straight or with a drop, that places the TRE closer to parallel to the right spindle rod end.
    -Donny
     
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