Woodstock

I have this setup on my '67, and that is the plan on the 3B , I have a pre-AA, pre-Herm adapter and OD output gear that I am going to try. Definitely not going without a PTO winch.

 

Nick is right there is a drawback to not having power out. There are reversing pto's available it took me a decade to find this one. I would have gone with the od adapter but I refuse to deal with the only purveyor.
This one doesn't hang any lower than the T18 itself.
The T handle above the speedo is the actuator handle.

 

I'll have do dig out the PTO I think I have for the SM420 to see if it's reversing like the Dodges. Maybe the Dodges hang down lower because they reverse? And I'm with you on your feelings about the only purveyor, What a PIA to deal with. Luckily, I already have what I need. At one time, I figured I could make the adapter if I had one to copy. Would not be too tough. Thanks for the photos.

 

The pto's by Muncie, Spicer, etc are kind of generic finding the right gear to mesh with the countershaft is whats tough. Most of the literature is for later model stuff now. Somewhere I have a pdf of the different early truck 4spds and the gear # you need to look for.
Edit: many of them can be taken apart, flip the housing around and reassemble. Space under a flatfender can get complicated though..

 

For the Torrington bearings, our most difficult vendor was little help, and I thought it was ironic because he could have charged me to install the bearings before the gears left his shop. Instead, I am determined to buy the bearings from AA (cheaper and easier) and make an installation tool, and press them in myself. A piece of 1.75" DOM cleaned up fit right in the bearing, and I mated that to a piece of 2" .25" wall, with a piece of 1.625 exhaust tubing sleeved in the middle.

Assembled, this will work I think. The bearing has a thicker edge on the "number side", so I will press from that side.

With the wife out today, so Sourdough Saturday not happening, the oven is free. 350* for 45 minutes, and we have bowl gear souffle.

I ran that out to the press, in like butter.

Old left, new right. We are good to go. Notice the gear size difference.

Installed the planetary back in the new bowl, and it is ready. So I was forced to learn and do something successfully because of a vendor's incompetence. Glad I know how to do it, and now I have the tool.

 

Most don’t realize that just because a transmission pto typically has the same bolt pattern the gears are transmission specific. Few are reversing but they are out there. I had to have one custom built for my early GM NV4500 (lower 6.34:1 first gear vs. normal 5.61:1 first gear).

For you doing gear work like this get yourself a single burner hot plate and a cheap toaster oven for heating up parts. Worth their weight in gold and can be picked up cheap at garage/estate sales or Goodwill and the like. Another one is a cheap crockpot for stripping paint off parts or degreasing small parts.

 

In my dad's old shop, this time of year we had a woodstove going, coffee on top in the morning, dutch oven lunch. I think we warmed up a few gears too.

 

That looks fantastic!

 

Looking good.

 

I used to have a dive shop 20’ from the harbor water. The County wouldn’t let me convert the building for my shop because they required a toilet, but the Health Dept wouldn’t allow wastewater/septic that close to the water. I bought an Incinolet incinerating toilet and was able to open the shop.
That toilet never got used for its intended purpose, but it was great for heatshrinking parts (VW cam drive gear on crankshaft), and for stripping paint, etc. It was almost like a kiln.
-Donny

 

Clean looking dash Rich

 

With the overdrive mostly ready, I can't put off getting under the jeep any longer. This 18 case has been great for me, I built it out of a Dana 20 case years ago, and it does not leak and is quiet. I think that is a testament to Novak quality parts, following their guide religiously, and keep the oil full and clean.

The Ramsey PT-1 has also been through hell, going back to winching in Johnson Valley, and many more. In fact it made a noise I had never heard last summer trying to winch a tree out of the Rubicon River rope swing landing zone, so I will look at it to make sure I didn't hurt it.

Out, and on the table on a snowy February day. Needs a little degreasing.

I popped the cover, in preparation for tear down. Very clean, nothing to see here.

The PTO could use some cleaning, and the overdrive and PTO adapter are pretty much ready to go.

 

Cleaned up the case, and dropped all the gears out. Here are both sets, Teralow on top, stock on bottom.

Removed the front housing. Cleaned and installed new seals. This was the only place that was wet, so I will either speedy-sleeve the front output or see if I have a better one, because it does have a groove.

New gasket and Right Stuff, reinstall the front housing, the starting point.

After looking at the Novak needles, thrust washers and intermediate shaft, I am going to reuse them. Call me crazy, but I think these have a ways to go before I have any concerns. Worst case, I dig in again.

 

Installed the output shaft, new output gear, and sliding gear.

Since this case was in great shape, I tried the shim stack that was in it. Perfect at .004" end play.

I then pulled the bearing cap back off and copper sprayed the shims before they go in for good. This might help with leaking.

Next is the new intermediate gear, and I always use this Smart Blend trans assembly goop to hold the needles in, it works well.

 

A bead of the Right Stuff around the outside of the shim pack as an extra measure while it is clean.

 

An 18 that hasn't leaked in 20 years. Awesome. Details of your assembly process please. I see you use Right Stuff. On both side of the gaskets or just one side? Spray copper is what I used on the last case I did. Have yet to install and run the case though. Thanks. Keep up the good work.

 

The Right Stuff goes on the outside joined edge as insurance.

 

I know, when you say it, I can't believe it doesn't leak. My CJ5 leaks, and almost every other jeep I have had leaks. But with this one I was extra careful, and I think it pays off. About the only other trick is to use the Novak billet bottom cover. I almost bought it this time, but it wasn't leaking at the cover, so decided to put that cash to work elsewhere. I use RightStuff on both sides of every gasket, and a light coat of spray copper on the shims, and as @vtxtasy said, rtv around the outside edge. I also rtv the output splines, and under the output yoke washer.

 

Mine leaks at the one thru bolt on the cover and I was careful with it. Cleaned and used rtv. Something to fix the next time I drain it.

 

I had a hunch there was grinding involved, and I found where. The intermediate gear won't go in the case without a little relief.

Hit it with a die grinder, and there is clearance. Then the 4-handed wrestling job to get the gear lined up, the thrust washers in position, keep all the needles in place, and get the Novak intermediate shaft through. After it's in, there is plenty of clearance between the gear and the case. It is just to get the gear in, which I did not know.

It really is pretty easy, and satisfying, to get it together, and it all turns. Ready to button up.

2 coats of paint, then temporarily installed the shifters to check that it all works. Still waiting on a new front yoke.