King Pin Studs Necessary?

I found the L top king pin with 4 bolts and the R top Kingpin with 3 bolts and a stud. Kaiser Willy Jeep lists the stud, and the description says for Kaiser Willys Jeeps with the F134 engine. Does that mean I don't need studs on my '67 CJ5, 225 V6, Dana 27 front axle? I don't know where this Dana 27 axle housing has been (haha).

After reading a bit, it seems like the stud is used to tighten the king pin cap so the bolts don't loosen and cause a kerfuffle... or worse.

Since the king pin bolts need to be sealed, because they tap through the knuckle, wouldn't a (n aircraft) sealant work just as well on a bolt? Gooped sufficiently of course.

Thanks!

 

Not so much tightness, as fit. The unthreaded portion's diameter is critical in that location. So, yes, studs.

I don't know if that applies to all axles however.

 

Anytime you can use a stud to keep bolt threads out of the bearing surface, it's a WIN.
The same goes for fastening locking hubs to the wheel hub.

 

Of all of the 2 dozen-ish or whatever Dana 25/27 axles that I've taken apart, probably 3 had studs instead of bolts and I'm inclined to say that my memory tells me they were all OLD Dana 25s.....early 50's at best. The MB axle also had studs but it had steering arms that were incorporated with the king pins as well.

The torque value on the king pin caps is relatively low. I wouldn't be concerned with studs vs bolts in that respect. I've never ever had a king pin bolt come loose, like locking hub bolts have.

All that being said, I'd generally agree that studs are always better choice but not always "necessary."

A bolt with a correct length shoulder remedies this. If I am understanding your statement correctly. The original king pin bolts are shouldered appropriately.

 

Yes, you are correct. Finding a 'correct length' shoulder bolt can be tough.
Always keep track of bolts during disassembly.

 

I agree, I was wondering what the need was for studs in the knuckle caps if they were not steering arm caps? Thanks for posting.

 

My 1950 pickup, too.

That's what I was thinking of when I said the the stud fit is critical. I went through a spell where the steering arm kept getting loose, not a good thing.

 

Napa had them first try: Grade 5 with the correct shoulder!

 

The kingpin studs in the Toyota front axle in my 3a have tapered bushings that wedge the pieces in place. Awesome design.
Actually, the lockout hub studs have them too.

 

I remember having this conversation when I did the spindle knuckle studs on my CJ. The concensus was, studs not needed on the kingpin caps.

 

I used regular hex bolts for mine.

 

...unless they are steering arms. Trust me on this.

 

So, G503 and Willys pickup

 

I wouldn't use bolts on the kingpins . I use studs only
I have had the bolts stirp out and Yes I used A torque wrench.

 

Chevy high steer arms/knuckles use wedges too. I've also seem some full-floating rear axles use them on the flange bolts.

 

Yes, And If I remember correctly my old 1972 f-250 did too.

 

Common on big trucks

 

My '65 W100 Power Wagon had those on the rear Dana 60 axle shafts...talk about factory overkill! It was quite the effort just to do a brake job.