Scott's '66 Continuous Modifications.

I also coated the tray in Por 15 rust converter then top coated it.

 

x4,AGM OR BUST.

 

You’ll are killing me. I just told Cynthia I was done spending money on the Jeep for a while.

My birthday is 4 weeks away if anyone needs some ideas.

 

Swap the battery with another vehicle... or someone's boat. The new stuff with start stop has agm like 2020 Ford explorers and later...

 

Scott put a couple Lithium Ion batterys in your jeep and have fun!!!!

 

What I’ve read on the Lithium Ion batteries is they weren’t meant as a starting battery, more of a storage battery for solar.

 

I started the Dauntless this morning! Only a couple minutes at a time as it had No radiator and I just wanted to make sure I had everything “mostly” correct.

Tach signal was there but jumped from 800s to 1400s a bit. Here’s the Hall Effect sensor I got from Holley.



Here’s the key to making it work.



Using the purple and green twisted wires off the Holley 10 pin connect them to the white and black wires from the sensor . The red from the sensor gets 12v. Disconnect and terminate the Yellow that I had on the HEI distributed and be sure the White off the 10pin is well terminated or unpinned (important).

In step 7 of the setup wizard select “Holley Dual Sync Distributor”. I had conflicting instructions from Holley here and “Magnetic Distributor” seemed to work about the same.

My O2 sensor was not working so I’ll swap it my spare tonight.

Currently working on the grill/radiator. The hose connections to the PS pump give just a bit interference with the bottom edge of the grill.



Speaking of the PS pump- this rebuilt pump did not seal properly to the pressure hose. Seems like the cone of this flare connection was worn and leaking before I even put pressure on it.

See the ridge near the top of the cone? I’ve ordered a replacement.

 

Not sure what type of o2 sensor you have. With the short engine run cycles, the sensor may not of had enough time to come up to temperature and give feedback.

 

The display said “ sensor not connected “. When I plugged the new sensor in the Sniper was seeing it right away. I’ll run it a bit more before I swap it permanently.

 

Trouble. Hopefully y’all can give me an easy answer.

We noticed the driver side exhaust was not getting hot like tho passenger side. Like after several minutes you could still grab the header.
Unplugging a wire on driver side seemed to make no difference in the way it ran. Unplugging the wire on the passenger side did make the engine stall. I put the timing light on #1 ,3,5 and it was getting a flash on the timing light.

The Sniper has maybe 30% more vacuum on the passenger side and I could stall the engine pretty easily by covering the intake on that side. I did manage to stall the engine by covering the driver side but not nearly as easily.



It’s a spread bore intake So each injector is separated.




Any ideas about why I’m not getting any power from drivers side.

 

You went from an even-fire to odd-fire. Your timing is wrong or you are not getting fuel from one injector. I imagine you could
look down the throttle body and see if it is spraying.

 

Classic symptoms of odd fire engine with distributor set up wrong.

 

Take your timing light and look at the injector spray pattern. They should be even from side.to side. If this was not an issue with the carburetor than you know the distributor is fine.

But if the distributor came over with the tbi then that's the issue.

Or a plug isn't firing...
Pull plugs and check.

 

This is what I was thinking about too. The timing is showing up correctly and it is running smoothly on whatever is running but it’s definitely not right.

I have another distributor that definitely has a different cap that I’ll throw in there tomorrow.

I also have a NIB HEI that would have made this all easier but it’s Chinese cheap stuff that I really don’t trust.

 

Post pictures of the caps, rotors, and label the wires with cyl number.

 

The cap is wrong and possibly the distributor. Post #728.

 

HEI Cap | ECJ5 (earlycj5.com)

 

Yes. I’m questioning whether this is even an Oddfire?? It came with a Flexplate attached. Which I’m not sure any CJ Dauntless had an Auto. Commando Dauntless I think did.

I just had another thought. And it’s not good if this is a Dauntless - I used the nearly new camshaft and lifters out of my 231 (evenfire) when I was first starting with this engine.

I think I have a picture of the Crankshaft and I’m sure one of you will tell me.

 

%#+£ !
This is the only picture I have of the inside of the engine.

 

You can't swap cams and distributors between even fire and odd fire engines. Seeing a picture of the crank will say if it's even or odd fire. Given your symptoms, it's probably odd-fire.

If it's odd-fire, you'll need an odd-fire cam and distributor for it.