Clutch adjustment - out of ideas

Well I have tried everything I can think of, and hopefully you guys might have some ideas.

I have recently rebuilt my t14 and d18, Installed a new Center Force clutch, throw out bearing and cable (1971 model) and believe it or not everything works great except I can't get the clutch pedal adjustment correct.

I can adjust it so that it shifts smoothly, but the throw out bearing is in contact with the clutch. When I adjust it so that the throw out bearing isnt contacting the clutch, then I don't have enough pedal movement to disengage the clutch.

I have tried adjusting the body (to give the pedal more play), different cables, routing the cable different ways but always the same thing, to make the clutch disengage, the throw out bearing is spinning with the clutch.

Some thoughts:

Advanced adapters kit with a clutch tube with the tab.
Moving the cable higher on the clutch pedal to give more throw.
A longer Throw out bearing
Doing nothing and let it spin.

Any thoughts.

 

I remember having this same problem on my truck.
I ended up drilling a new hole on the fork, closer to the pivot ball and grinding a new "V" at said hole. I netted enough throw this way for smooth shifting and no bearing ride.
just my $.25 worth, inflation adjusted of course.
Good luck to ya.
Alan

 

Is the ball stud inside the bell housing adjustable? This is the stud that the clutch fork pivots on. Some are adjustable. It may help. ?????

 

do you have the tube for the linkage the right way?I had a similar problem with mine when i switched to a rod and heim joint system,a quick flip and it was easy to adjust.There are pics here on the changeover it is really alot nicer to drive.

 

My pivot ball is not really adjustable, but I can reach in. Would you suggest lenghtening it?
I have the cable system that was used in 1971. I don't know when they stopped using the tube.

 

Check the clutch pedal release rod. The distance between the cotter key holes should be 10-1/4". Your free pedal should be 3/4". HTH

 

Yeah, that's where my clutch wasn't working. I ended up curring and bending mine to work.

 

Take the shaft that the cable attaches to and switch it around so that the longer tab attaches to the cable, and the shorter tab attaches to the rod. I believe that is what Tinker was trying to say. It will improve your travel. At least on the WWII jeeps it is easy to get backwards. OR..!!!!!...........Since Mcruff says in the next post that a pivot tube doesn't exist on a 71 CJ..........Maybe you should listen to his advice.R)

 

Guys on a 71 setup there is no tab, no tube or anything. It is a complete cable from start to finish. The only parts are a cable, clevis to attach to the pedal arm and an adjusting screw to attach to the clutch arm, thats it. Every body that I have heard about that used a Centerforce clutch in the v6 ended up having trouble of some kind in the adjustment department, they usually get it figured out but its time consuming.
I'm sorry I have no info to help you with your problem other than to say stay at it. I still have my stock clutch disk and have never had a problem with the adjustment of the cable setup. My bet is that the throw out bearing is to long for the Centerforce clutch, even a 1/16" would make a huge difference.

 

You know; After I made my previous post, I started wondering about the set-up. Thinking that 1971 was kind've new for it to be like the jeeps that I am used to!

 

I was thinking of trying a different throw out bearing, but I thought I would have to to with a slightly longer one. What are your thoughts on drilling an additional hole in the clutch pedal, between the existing cable hole and the spring hole? This would give some additional travel.

 

might work. but in order to add more travel, the tab needs to be longer. when i swaped in the t14, i added about 1/2" to the tabs on the cross-shaft and it made a big difference in force needed to push in the clutch (FYI: i also added a new stock clutch at the same time).

 

My setup just has the cable. I don't have the cross tube with the tab, but I have been thinking of adding one, then adding to the tab and use the AA Chain system.

 

That would work if you get it in th right place. But remember that doing so would make it have a higher pedal effort

 

Please read my above post, the 71 is the simplest set up clutch from the factory you can get, there are no other parts like earlier models simply a cable, no tabs, tubes or any other parts.

 

My old '63 GMC v6 had to have a new clutch plate years ago. Couldn't get the clutch to work right. Then I found out that the pivot ball came in different lengths (three of them if I remember right) Frustrating, to say the least.

 

the pivot balls are slightly different between a finger type clutch and the diaphragm type. The 71 should have had a diaphragm clutch from the factory.

 

Thanks, I was concerned about that. I've got very little pedal effort currently which is great. What are your thought on using the cross tube that has the tab? Maybe adding to the Tab if needed, then try the AA Chain or a similar system. Would you try drilling an additional hole in the pedal first? How would I find the correct spot?

 

Pivot balls come in different lengths

There are about 5 different throw-out bearings and sleves. See the Novak www site.--

Different clutch and flywheels use different combos of each. See the Novak www site.--

There are different lengths of clutch forks too--

Also you could shorten your clutch pedal arm if needed.

 

They make a chevy pickup pivot ball that is a 1/4 inch longer this should fix it.