trailer ramps

I wasn't sure if this would go here or in Off Topic. Here won, apparently.

The short ramps that came with my new-used trailer are way too heavy (and short) and I'm thinking of making new, longer ones. What thickness steel do you think would be best? I think the existing ones are 3/16" or1 /4" 2" X 3" angle iron. I don't plan to haul anything like heavy equipment, although a skid steer now and then might be nice. Mostly the CJ or an occasional street vehicle. What do you think? Can I get by with 1/8" 2 X 2 angle? Maybe I should go with 2 X 3 box tubing on the short end.

 

Well I had a set of 3/16"x2x3 angle ramps, about 3 or 4 ft long. Loaded a skid steer on the trailer and bent both of them.... Too heavy for anything else, I agree. 1/8"x2x2 might be heavy enough for a CJ.

I'm keeping an eye on this one, since I will need to biuld a new set eventually.

 

I was thinking also about putting a truss under the ramp legs, made out of 1" round .095 wall to help distribute the load. That changes how I'll mount them under the back, so I'm still considering it.

 

Hadn't thought of channel. Good idea. Could be a possibility, as is the boxed tubing. I probably won't need new ramps for a while, because the first vehicle I'll put on it will be loaded with a fork lift and there's plenty of time to give this some more thought. The last open race car trailer I had, I built long ramps and extensions out of 1 x 2 box, probably .095 wall. They held up very well but I only used it for race cars and other light weight vehicles.

On the skid steer, I guess that's realistically not an issue, because the last time I rented one, it came with its own trailer.

That's why I asked. 8)

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Neat idea.. how about using rebar for the truss material ? Kinda like how you would truss an axle.

 

I decided to go with two inch channel, two inch angle cross braces and expanded metal. No trusses due to ramp storage issues. I've got one done and will post photos tomorrow when I fix my router. I'm sending this from my phone, which is a little tedious.
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I like the truss idea.
I built mine using 1/8" thick 2x2 square stock for the uprights (see photo). Those are welded to 1/8" 2x2 angle stock at each end, and extruded steel mesh (for traction) on top. Ramp is 4 feet long. Heavy? Kinda, but not overly so. Heavy duty? So far so good...

 

I like that design, but didn't want hinged ramps for mine. Here's what I came up with in the attachment below. You can see how short the original ramp is and it's much heavier than the new, longer one. I had most of the iron laying around from other projects, including the expanded metal, which is a little heavier than the stuff in the background right of the photo. I'm thinking I may need to run a wheel barrow up there some day, so a smoother surface seems like the plan.

If I get some flex, I'll throw on a truss or two in the future. I've got one more to build, then finish welding both and design some sort of bracket underneath for them.

 

That new one in your picture looks really good...very pro. I bet flex will be minimal. Are you going to store the ramps under the deck of the trailer?

 

Thanks. Even if they do flex a bit, that's okay as long as they flex back.

Yeah, under the rear deck but I haven't decided exactly how, yet. Either side by side or stacked. I'm hoping to get back to it today and finish the second ramp, then I'll start playing with the storage configuration. Stay tuned...

 

Finally finished up on the ramp project yesterday. Seems I'm a little color challenged on matching the trailer. R) I couldn't find any silver even close, so I just went with Dark Machine Gray. Another one of my 100 foot paint jobs, complete with my goober welds.

While I was at it, I put on electric trailer brakes and a couple of side markers up near the front. The PO said he rewired the trailer but by the looks of the painted wire (same over spray color as the trailer), I'm thinking he maybe rewired the last foot or so into the plug. Pretty crude. It's now a seven-way plug and done right. :smash:

Now I've got to build a spare tire mount and add a dodad box on the tongue. It's just time ...

 

Looks real good, Bruce.
I built a spare mount from a Chevy Blazer holder. I'll get some pics and post them tomorrow. Be warned, though; the welds look awful (it was windy and it HAD to get done).

Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks, Flat47. Judging by my welds these days, yours can't be all that bad. Turns out my best welds on this project are on the undersides of the ramps and rack.

 

Okay, here are some pics to give you an idea of what I did (not trying to hi-jack your thread).
It sits a bit high because of the construction of the tongue. I used a spare holder out of an '80s Blazer and cut it to shape for the trailer. One thing I haven't yet done is weld in some angle stock below the top rail so the tire hits a flat surface. Right now the edge of the top rail is denting the sidewall of the tire (hey, it's just a spare...right?).

Hope this helps.

 

Those are nice ramps. Mine are short too as it is a equipment trailer. tractors and Jeeps only the J20 dragged as it came off.

 

Not a hijacking at all.

That's pretty much what I had in mind for my spare. My trailer doesn't have a center piece between the tongue side rails, so I'll have to put in something so the tire doesn't drop down. However, class starts for me today and it takes us old farts a little time to academically ramp up after a summer off. No garage work for a little while.

 

Thanks. I've struggled with short ramps on other trailers, so I feel your pain. But as long as it mostly works, huh? R)

 

If you've got enough bolt length you can always put a shot piece of pipe behind the rim with a large washer that would let the tire stand off just on the bolt.