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Clutch Going Out of Adjustment

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Boyink, Sep 10, 2009.

  1. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    OK - I need some eyeballs.

    It seems I've having to re-adjust the clutch on SSDutch every other week - even with infrequent driving.

    For those not up to speed, it's a T18 4-speed behind a 4.3 Chevy with the stock D18 and clutch pedal.

    Here are some photos:

    Clutch fork end disengaged:
    [​IMG]

    Clutch Fork end clutch engaged:
    [​IMG]

    It moves maybe 1/4" to 3/8" - is that normal?

    Looking down the clutch cable towards the clutch fork:
    [​IMG]

    Clutch Fork End:
    [​IMG]

    Clutch linkage tube - attached to the outer frame rail:
    [​IMG]

    The clutch cable is always tight - it doesn't feel like it's stretching or coming loose through use, but with that little travel it wouldn't take much (I wish I had better pics of the clutch cable setup on Dutch - it seemed like it would be less influenced by frame and drivetrain movement).

    Would an AA chain setup be better?
     
    Boyink, Sep 10, 2009
    #1
  2. lamar

    lamar Member

    Check you transmission to bellhousing bolts to make sure they are tight. also the bellhousing to block bolts. Had it happen to me once. They slowly loosened and let the parts separate and changed the clutch setting. I caught it before it all came loose and fell out in the road.
     
    lamar, Sep 10, 2009
    #2
  3. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    [​IMG]
    I'd drill the hole closer to the end of that ear giving the throwout more travel, and make a link with baby heim joints.
     
    Patrick, Sep 10, 2009
    #3
  4. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    What Patrick said. :coffee:
     
    Glenn, Sep 10, 2009
    #4
  5. AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    I have to disagree with this one. If the hole is closer to the end of the tab you would get more clutch action with less foot pedal action. Seems like these clutches are already to "on/off". If anything you want less clutch action for the foot pedal movement to allow a more gradual, controlled clutch uptake.

    Anyway, it doesn't seem like the clutch going out of adjustment would be related to the tab hole position. It's possible but not likely.

    Perhaps check the motor mounts? Also possible but not likely if they're fairly new.

    I would not switch to the AA chain setup. My impression of that is that it might work well but comes with it's own set of issues.

    Good Luck.
     
    AKCJ, Sep 10, 2009
    #5
  6. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Oh. My clutch has never been anywhere close to on/ off. It's fairly gradual..Has been with 3 different clutches, three different transmissions, two different throwout forks, and several iterations of linkage.
     
    Patrick, Sep 10, 2009
    #6
  7. uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    AKCJ x2 per hole drilling.
    Is there any sort of plastic bushings in the cross tube?
    Andfor the least likely, broken pivot ball on the throw out arm.
     
    uncamonkey, Sep 10, 2009
    #7
  8. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Thanks guys...

    This setup does have a very short throw - and it's very stiff. MsBoyink has never tried to drive the thing and I'm not sure she could. I can't even sit at a light and keep the clutch in for that long...:rofl:

    I haven't off-roaded with it much but have noticed even parking off-camber for a ballgame that the clutch was affected. Hate to see what would happen in some serious rock....

    It's about time to get under the Jeep and put a wrench on things anyway - so will check the motor mounts and bellhousing bolts, etc.

    I also wonder if re-working that middle linkage would help take some slop out of the clutch - there is a fair amount of it by the time it all comes together.

    I briefly checked out the hydraulic setups that Novak is selling...but honestly if it comes to that will probably be looking to begin a 700R4 conversion instead. For my use this T18 is going to waste (and I still think it shifts like crap...)
     
    Boyink, Sep 11, 2009
    #8
  9. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    With my setup (pretty much stock, a lot like yours) and with the baby rod ends, I rarely get any linkage binding. It's gotta be twisted up pretty hard.
    That cable is so short, and large in diameter, that I cant' imagine it stretching. I'm wondering if your lack of clutch travel is making the adjustment touchy. I'd think if you could extend that lever arm by moving that hole out it would make everything a little more forgiving.
     
    Patrick, Sep 11, 2009
    #9
  10. Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2024 Sponsor

    Boyink, Go with the hydraulic clutch setup from Novak, its one of the best projects I did! It does require changing over to swinging peddals if you dont have them.
     
    Rozcoking23, Sep 11, 2009
    #10
  11. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Yeah.maybe you missed where I already mentioned why I don't want to go that way? :)
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
    Boyink, Sep 11, 2009
    #11
  12. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Mike - I had a clutch very much like what you are describing. It turned out to be the fork was the wrong length. I don't remember measurements off hand, but I believe Novak has something about it on thier site as well.
     
    Warloch, Sep 11, 2009
    #12
  13. cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

    can you see if the bellhousing piviot ball is in the socket of the fork , I've had mine pop out and kind of give a variable clutch feel that always was changing. I have a AA chain and it gives me no problems but it's 25/30 years old.
     
    cj6/442, Sep 12, 2009
    #13
  14. AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member


    What's the story on that clutch fork? Looks like it's been welded - as though it's been extended? With a longer lever arm there you need more travel at the pedal.

    Going back to the tab at the jackshaft - it doesn't look like a stock tab to me. It's almost as though the hole used to be out towards the end but was welded shut and a new hole was drilled closer in to the center of pivot.

    Both of these items would cause the need for more pedal travel which for my setup would be desirable, however, it may be too much so now you need to try going the other way.

    I agree with the idea of fabbing better linkages with better hardware. Smoother action and less effort.

    Just greasing everything on mine makes a huge difference - especially the pedal pivot. I added some zerks to the jackshaft so it's easy to get some grease on the inside for the ball pivots (t-case end and frame end). It's a bit messy but works well.

    One more thing. I had the hat channel crack that holds the pivot ball at the frame so I was loosing the motion when I stepped on the clutch pedal. It finally broke off so I had to drive home without the clutch one day. In the pictures yours looks fine but it's worth taking a look at.
     
    AKCJ, Sep 15, 2009
    #14
  15. AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    I'd be interested in the details of what you have. I have (and have read about many other) an "on/off" type clutch action. This can make it pretty hard to finesse things when the going gets tight. And gets tiresome for everyday driving.

    Probably has to do with linkage, fork, and throwout bearing groove location.

    There's some really good reading on this subject at the Novak web site.

    Patrick, if you could spill the beans on this one it would be much appreciated. Dimensions, part numbers, pictures, or whatever info you may have. I'm trying to avoid the switchover to hydraulic.
     
    AKCJ, Sep 15, 2009
    #15