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Spindle Hub Bearing Install?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Thompology, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. Thompology

    Thompology Member

    So my parts (bearings) are in for the D30 and I am going to try and get it slapped back together this weekend. Buuuuuut being as I am a rookie, I am not really sure how to drive the cups back into the hub without damaging them. Looking around a bit I may have to buy this:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html

    Or do I? I really wont want to mess this up as I have been staring at hover jeep for 3 weeks now and I'd like to get it back rolling.

    Just to be clear, I am talking about the cups that go on the inner and outer side of what I think is called the spindle hub. :?

    Hopefully that makes some sort of sense.

    Help!:rofl:
     
  2. nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    The bearing race/seal tool is probably your best bet. I didn't have one, or the money to get one so here's what I did.

    I took the old bearing race (the cup) and placed it over the new bearing race. I then placed a piece of 2x4 on top and tapped it with a hammer as far as I could get it in...but still able to remove the old race. To finish the job I took a steel punch that was flat on the end and lightly tapped the race while alternating the punch to opposite sides and around the race until it was fully seated.

    The key for this method is finesse...not power.
     
  3. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    several ways to do it
    but....
    prolly the best way to do it
    less chance of a punch slipping off and ruining the race.
     
  4. Thompology

    Thompology Member

    I may have to enlist some of the local ECJ5 talent to supervise...
    I read about using a brass hammer and a brass punch (they called it something else) but I am thinking either the above linked product and a ball peen hammer, or a press setup of some sort.
     
  5. dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

    I use a small hammer and flat bottom punch. I first place an inverted old (expendable) race on top of the new race as protection and it allows a larger surface to hit. As stated before, patience is key. Make absolutely sure the race is stated evenly as you start to drive it in place. Small hits in a cross or star pattern work for me. You will only move the race a few thousands each time, since it's not going in perfectly straight. The strikes should sound like sharp 'chinks' until the race is seated. The hits will then sound like dull thuds. After 4 or 5 thuds, the race will be seated and straight.
     
  6. Wmi68CJ5

    Wmi68CJ5 Let the Sun Shine!

    I have a 12" piece of 3/4" dia aluminum rod that I use. Wirks great and doesn't mar the suface if I do slip. I have also used wood dowels but it isn't as easy. Good luck!
     
  7. Jokenring

    Jokenring Member

    Get a brass drift and pound it home.
     
  8. Thompology

    Thompology Member

    Oh that scares me.
     
  9. Jokenring

    Jokenring Member

    It's not that bad. It is basically a 1/2" round solid brass rod that you use instead of a steel punch. Brass won't hurt the steel as it is much softer. Like above, aluminum would work too. As previously mentioned tap around the race. Like a clock, hit it at 12, 6, 3, 9 and repeat.
     
  10. Oakhurst Bob

    Oakhurst Bob New Member

    I use the old race and a light hammer.

    But first......

    Put the new race in the freezer for about ten minutes. Also, get some heat (put it in the Sun) into the hub. Makes it a little easier.
     
  11. '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member

    It's really not that bad once you get a feel for it. I've always a used a flat punch and gently tapped the race down. But some sort of sacrificial drift is the safest way to go.
     
  12. '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member

    If you need a hand, I can probably spare a few hours this weekend. I also have a spindle nut socket of you need it.
     
  13. Thompology

    Thompology Member

    OH EXCELLENT! I was looking around but couldn't find one 2 & 1/8". Ill get everything ready and shoot you a PM
     
  14. '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member

    Cool. Let me know.
     
  15. Okkie

    Okkie Member

    R)
    I've put my whole hub in the oven, and the bearing races in the freezer, but make sure the paint on the hub is dry before you put it in the oven, otherwise SWAMBO wont like you.:rofl:

    Some light tapping, and mine went in easily.

    Translation:SWAMBO-She Who Always Must Be Obeyed :twisted:

    Okkie.
    PS. Be sure not to drive the spindle bearings "roller bearings" all the way in, IIRC they should only go in part of the way.
     
  16. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    the race will stop when it is in far enough
     
  17. Thompology

    Thompology Member

    I ended up using the old races to hammer the new races in, I put oil on the ouside (I hope that is ok) and tapped it in nice and easy!
     
  18. nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    oh no...you didn't use oil!





















    yeah...just kidding.
     
  19. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Putting a little oil or grease on the race is a good idea. It minimizes galling during installation and makes them go in much easier..

    Funny Nwedgar:rofl: