1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

1957 CJ6 + 2000 TJ = ? (Building a CJ6)

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by don87401, Nov 24, 2013.

  1. Agar426

    Agar426 Member

    Awesome! Thank you so much for the pictures. Much better than what Genright has on their site, and there's aren't bad. This helps a ton.....
     
  2. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    More progress on the Roll Cage. Not complete and nothing welded out yet.

    Driver side Bar fitted. Cross bars fitted the front half.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The back half. Passenger side front where the side bar meet the stanchion and lower front cross bar meet the side bar.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Upper cross bar meets the side bar. The joint in the side bar you see has TMR tube slug inside for reinforcement. The view from the rear with all the cross bars fitted.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    All tubing is 2" DOM. The Tube slug and the bolted fittings are all from TMR. Nothing is welded out yet still making more bars to fit and install. So this is only part of what it is going to be. The blue straps just keep tension on the cross bar so they don't push the side bars outward and then fall out. The bars are about 1"below the cross angles above that you see. This whole thing is being designed to be unbolted and remove able. I don't have a good reason for that other than that's just the way I wanted to do it.
     
    Valentino84 and ITLKSEZ like this.
  3. givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    Looks really good!
     
  4. bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Very nice work!
     
  5. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Another bar added, the B pillar.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    There will be 3/16" quarter panel guards on the out side as a backing plate. Next set of pictures. Still just fitting nothing welded.
     
  6. fesser

    fesser Napa, CA 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Great work! I was thinking that it would be helpful if you made every part twice. Then when you were done you could ship the extra parts to me so that they wouldn't be in your way.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2016
    Bajatransit likes this.
  7. Bajatransit

    Bajatransit Member

    This is inspiring.
     
  8. givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    I was just thinking about this project the other day, do you have any updates ?
     
  9. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Yep I have moved forward some more I need to figure out how to post pictures again after the site was up dated, last time I tried I had a mess.
     
  10. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Building seat mounting rails.
    20160924_153019.jpg
    20160924_153019.jpg

    P1020069.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  11. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Roll Cage progress, during welding
    P1020155resized.jpg
    P1020156resized.jpg
    Took it all apart and primed it and put it back in.
    P1020177resized.jpg
    P1020178resized.jpg
    P1020181resized.jpg

    Have some more progress pictures in the camera, will up load then when I get them on the computer.

    Yea I figured it out!
     
  12. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Also new accessory in the shop.
    P1020147resized.jpg P1020150resized.jpg
     
  13. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

  14. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Very Nice.
     
  15. givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    This is still one of my favorite jeeps ever built. I'm glad to see you are still making progress, and I can't wait to see pics from its first drive. I think Mopar copied you this year with their cj66 concept!

    Are you still happy that you took this route, and would you do it again if you had the choice?
     
  16. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    I have always liked the CJ6 even as a kid. I have been enjoying building it. I had done some bumper and such fab work but never body work so it was and still is a learning curve. I was originally going to just piece it together with found parts and such but with the old frames being what they are I decided to at least get a decent frame under it and it took on a life of it's own. Now I have way more money in than it will ever be worth and a LOT more time than I had planned I hope it would have been driving 2 years ago but I just can't put in that much dedicated time so it has drug out much longer. I am currently working on all the gear shift mounting (4 shift levers to mount) I will have pictures of them up soon I hope; just about have it figured out finishing the fab this week I hope and will have the tunnel covers all back in place.

    Looking back I would have waited or hunted down a newer model some thing in the early 70's I have seen some sense then that had 304s in them and that would have save some of the engine/trany swap work as I would have probably left that alone and just beefed up the frame and stayed leaf spring with new modern leafs.

    I think I am going to have fun with it when I finish it. I built it to drive it. Is it a show Jeep no, but it is different. I want to bring it back East for some of the big Jeep shows like Batam and York maybe a few others.

    I did see pictures of the CJ66 from SEMA it is a nice looking rig kinda makes me green with envy.
     
    givemethewillys likes this.
  17. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    I promised more pics about mounting all the shift levers. The Jeep has an Twin Stick Atlas 4.3 t-case and 2.77 geared Klune-V in front of it and a 700R4 Auto trany driving it. So 4 shifters have to find a home in there some where. So here are some pictures of what I did to get them in there.

    Mounting plate for the twin stick and KluneV. I am adapting the Klunev to the third shifter of an Atlas 4 speed. Going to be mounted between the seats.
    P1020183resized.jpg

    Not mounted yet but is where it goes.
    P1020184resized.jpg
    You can also see the flange I made to build a cover over the tunnel. The plate is the original trimmed and drilled for the flange
    P1020185resized.jpg

    The shifter plate sitting on it mounts but not welded yet.
    P1020187resized.jpg

    Figuring out the auto shifter on the new cover for the tunnel
    P1020190Resized.jpg
    The shifter and the boots for the cables to come out of sitting on the cover plate. By the way the shifter is Lokar floor mount cable shifter.
    P1020194resized.jpg
    Holes cut in the cover plate of the shifter and the cables.
    P1020198resized.jpg
    Welding the cover plate to the flange and filling in the holes.
    P1020202resized.jpg
    All the original floor plates and new cover plate bolted in and things sitting in the correct location.
    P1020207resized.jpg

    As normal there are more pictures of this process in the link. It is a couple a post up.
     
  18. rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    That's great.. shifter tower looks nice
     
  19. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    I like what you're doing.............Although that sure is geared low...................4.3 Atlas with or without the 2.77 auxiliary you'll need a fairly low stall speed converter and some decent sized brakes to overcome the fluid coupling when going down a steep hill in drive.

    What type of shifter are you using on the 700R4?
     
  20. don87401

    don87401 Member 2022 Sponsor

    The shifter is a Lokar floor mount cable shifter. I also bought the electronic position senor and a dash mount indicator all from Lokar. They make stuff for hot rodders but it should work in the Jeep.

    Yep the gearing is going to be low but very versatile, it is close to what I have in my LJ Rubicon. I have an auto trans with a AA Rubicrawler (2.62) in front of the 4 to 1 t-case and 4.88 alxe gears on 35 tires. The CJ6 is 2.77 klunev, 4.3 atlas and 4.56 axles and 35 tires. I have found most of the time I am running with the Ribicrawler and High 4 in the t-case...if I need lower I kick out the rubicrawler and go to 4 to 1....But if I really really want to go slow I use both and usually leave the trany in high (D) gear so if I need to stop it is just one click to neutral. The autos don't have the deep 1st gears (3.03 is about the lowest in autos) of the standards. My Scrambler with the NP435 Grany 1st (6.69)and 2.62 D 300 and 4.56 axle gear on 35 tires goes about as slow as the 4 to 1 with the auto. I had a CJ5 with the 700r4 and a 4 to 1 D300 kit, I did not like that combo. If I was running with a bunch of stock Jeep on steep forest service roads I either had to work the auto hard in High range or drop to 4 to 1 and rev the engine high to keep up. With the rubicrawler or klunev I have near the same gearing as a stock Jeep to run with them and lower gears for hard crawling.