Muzikp's Sometimes Driveable Build

Oh yeh, a nice dry rub and they will cook up real nice. J/K, guess I'm hungry.

Engine looks, you know... enginey

 

Engine looks nice with those wrapped headers...but you're going to discard them in favor of the factory manifolds?

I think you might be speaking of Calyx Manifold Coating...Calyx Manifold Coating
Someone here has done their manifolds with it. Looks real spiffy.

 

Calyx from Eastwood is the stuff that will leave your manifolds minty fresh!

It is so close in color and appearance to brand new or freshly blasted cast iron that when applying it, it is difficult to tell where you have been. And yes, it does smell like mint for some reason.

 

On brake line blocks, next time, heat then up with a torch, then take them apart. Heat is a good tool to use to get stuff broke lose. If you have a oxygen/settling torch you can get stuff cheery red. Things come apart easy .

 

Thanks, I'm about to go get a torch of my own tonight but a few days too late for my poor beat up brake line block. Met a lady whose father passed away and she is trying to figure out how to sell all his tools. He was a welder on the Apollo space capsule. Needless to say he has a lot of nice stuff. I've been helping her figure out what all the tools are and what they are worth. She is giving me a deal on a long list of stuff I want and I'm helping her sell the stuff I don't want. Now if I could just find a buyer for a 900 pound Lincoln 300amp TIG welder with 3 phase power

 

Sending you a pm on some of that welding stuff you are helping to get rid of.

 

Brake lines are all plumbed. The rear line with the red paint on it was long enough to go straight up from the frame to new master cylinder so I reused the rear. Not sure I like it, may redo that if it doesn't grow on me.



The front brake line goes into that block on the firewall then down to another block on the frame and connects to the existing lines.



I was going to hook up the vacuum but having trouble getting that square head plug out of the intake manifold. I need to take the carburetor off to try and get better access to it.

 

I think the next step is swap the D30 with disc brakes and locker in.

Or I could do exhaust. Either one has to happen before this is driveable again.

 

I Dont know about your master but just throwing this out. IME the front brakes connect to the primary which is generally closest to the booster/ firewall. If I'm off base just ignore just looking out for you.

 

Not sure where you are with the D30, but mine with discs is disassembled right now. If you need to see how it all goes together, you are welcome to come take a look.

 

Thanks for lookin out for me. I was going back and forth on that and had it the other way for a bit then switched it. I'll switch it back. Thx.

 

That would be cool, mine is all together and ready to go under the Jeep. I have new spring plates and U-bolts so I'm hoping it's pretty simple. I need to replace a broken bolt, I had my son assemble it with me and apparently he's stronger than I thought. I told him one of his bolts wasn't tight enough so he went over it and sure enough, it was.

Here it is. Needs cleaning tho, and probably should paint it, more like should have painted it when it was all apart

 

Sounds like you're all set, shiny new paint overrated anyway.

 

Based on Rich's advice I went out and looked closely on my master cylinder. Sure enough there was a P and S on the two outlets and I had the front hooked to the secondary and the back hooked to the primary. So I switched that around and tried to route my brake lines better this time.



I also blasted the plug in the vacuum port on my exhaust manifold with PB and after pulling the carb off I was able to get it out.



Almost done getting all the little pieces of the new brake system sorted out. I feel like it wasn't really that hard to convert to power brakes, and I made it hard on myself with the foreign car brake pedal and booster since it required more work to get the brake pedal in the right spot than other swinging pedals. If you are on the fence about doing power brakes just do it, it's not that hard.

This week if all goes well I will get the D30 in and you guys can tell me what I did wrong so I can fix it next week

 

Looking good from here. I agree and sympathize re power brakes. I've got 5 hrs in the clutch pedal alone. Must have had the thing in and out a dozen times before done.

 

Wanted to finish the last little pieces on the brake booster before I installed the Dana 30. Went to the store and got this guy



Which you can see I put thread compound on and installed it, only to find it's too tall and the carburetor won't go back on

So I went back to the store and got this guy



Which worked perfect. I now have vacuum.



I also bought a few exhaust fittings to start figuring out how to make it mount to the the manifolds. Unfortunately my manifolds are different so I will need to make two different connectors. It's never easy is it.



Then I started tearing the front end apart. Disconnected brakes, driveshaft, steering arm, shocks, u-bolts and shackles.





I left the front tires on thinking I would just roll the free axle out from under. But being the genius I am I forgot they would hit the bumper (as you can see in the above pic). So I started taking the front tires off only to find that two of the studs were spinning and the lug nut wouldn't come off.

I took a cut off wheel to the first one hoping to slice down the sides and remove the lug nut that way, It worked but not very well



The second one I decided to drill the stud until there was no stud left. That worked much much better, except for this broken bit.



After much fuss and work the wheel was off the old axle.

Then I wire wheeled the spring where the axle sits so I could spray some rust preventer.





Then I cleaned up the Dana 30 and since I didn't want to regret not painting it, I painted it. I also removed all the tie-rods and steering stuff since it will all need new tie rod ends.







Then I was really tired and did no more.

I've seen some of you use some really nice beefy looking tie rod ends, where do I get them?

 

Should I do the tie-rod flip? What does that involve? I have a two hole knuckle on the passenger side, do I need other stuff to flip them?

 

Do it!

Goferit Products!

Ruff Stuff also has some insets and TREs but I think they are a bit overkill unless you are building a buggy.

I am also building my own tie rods with 1" OD .188 wall DOM. The ID works with the 11/16 x 18 thread of the stock TREs.

 

Wow, the bushings for the flip are more than I expected, but I think it's worth it to keep them out of the rocks.

Make my own tie rods, I like that idea. Did you buy the DOM local?

I'm working on making 4 degree camber wedges today for my Dana30 swap, couldn't justify spending $40 on a triangular hunk of metal with a hole in it. Besides this project is always over budget every month, now I can be $40 over on some other part