Starter Issues

The current problem with the new starter aside.....

Intermittent starting issues seem to be a somewhat common issue with the V6 CJ. There seems to be an issue with either the ignition starter wire being too small or the ignition switch itself causing a lack of adequate power to go to the solenoid to engage it.

My fix was to wire a Ford solenoid into the system mounted on the fender like the 72 and later models.
Battery cable to the solenoid, then out and down to the battery post on the starter.
Then I ran a jump wire from the main battery post to the solenoid post on the starter.
I did this back in the late 80's and have never had an issue with the starter system since.

 

something like this
but I still think it's the battery

 

I'm going to hook my truck up again and see what happens. Battery is showing 11.6 volts but I have to buy a new multimeter tonight on the way home. Somehow my kids broke mine. Going to also replace the grounds. Right now there's a ground from the batt to the frame, frame to block, and block to motor mount. I may try the remote solenoid if that all fails. Otherwise the next step would be ignition switch, which I'll hook up a temporary push button to rule that out. Last thing to look at would be a replacement starter assembly

 

That's poor. But means little unless tested under actual load.

 

I tend to agree. My v6 was very tough to start. I was convinced it was the starter, but I have a 198 and the starters are impossible to find. I bought a new battery and it starts much better although the engine still chugs fairly slowly before starting. On the flip side, I recently installed a new battery in my dads i6 mustang and it cranks twice as fast as the 198 Jeep motor.

but based on what I’m reading, OP should try a known good battery before messing with the starter or solenoid

 

Well I had my truck hooked up (brand new cummins) and it still did nothing when turning the key. Starting to think maybe the ignition switch? Had the truck hooked up and running for over an hour. Checked all the grounds with my meter, everything (battery to frame, block to frame, starter to frame, starter to battery) ohms out to 0. Have to grab a bunch of 14 gauge wire from the flap tomorrow to fix the mess the PO made with the Signal-Stat (no brake lights/front turns) so I think I'll grab a new ignition switch since they're cheap and good to have a spare.

 

If the battery is extremely dead, will you be able to jump it even with a brand new truck? Reason I ask is because I seem to recall trying that years ago on a vehicle and we got nothing - no click from the solenoid, no slow cranking of the engine, absolutely zero.

I ended up pulling bad battery out, putting the known good battery in its place, and it fired right up.

 

The battery was purchased 13 months ago, not that that makes much of a difference. But I was having zero issues at all until I replaced the plugs, wires, and positive battery cable. The jeep started up just fine, even reading 11.6 (it's was sitting for a few weeks while I was gone after purchase). I noticed the starter solenoid sparked at the battery cable while starting it up, so that prompted me to replace the cable as it was rusty. After that I had just a click from the solenoid, then replaced the solenoid and now have nothing.

 

Well, it's time to stay cool and touch nothing, disconnect the battery.
If it is easy... to take the starter out, take it out and test it.
Sparks are not a normal way of workl
Clean connexions, and chek the key contactor maybe.
I disconnected the starter from the key system and put a push knob to launch the starter, key is for ignition only.
Then you check your battery at the same time...and water inside.

 

May have a brush hung up in the starter. Give it a couple whacks with hammer.

 

If you have two small posts on the solenoid, make sure you connected your small wire to the right one. One or both of the small posts should be labeled on both solenoids.



For your single small wire, you want the "S" terminal for start. If you connect to "R" nothing will happen when you turn the ignition switch.

Never mind - I looked at one of your earlier photos and it's wired right.

 

One of the first things I did was give it a smack

 

Would still hear the solenoid click, even so.

 

Solenoids go all the time?

 

That's why I replaced it in the first place, the old one would just click once when turning the key. The new one does nothing. Definitely possible to have a nod one out of the box. They don't make stuff like they used to.

 

If it'a a bad solenoid all you have to do is jump the two large terminals and the starter should spin. (Be in neutral!)

 

How about some simple troubleshooting.

Assuming the battery is good, the ground is good, and the cable connections are clean.

Use your test light and voltmeter. You will need a friend to run the key.

Turn the ignition to start. You should hear the solenoid click. If you don't, check for power at the small purple wire at the solenoid. If you don't have power, then you issue is between the solenoid and the battery. If you do have power, then the issue is the solenoid or a bad ground.

If the solenoid clicks, with the key in the start position, check the battery cable voltage at the starter. It should be somewhere between 9 to 11 volts. If it is very low(>9V), then you may have a starter motor issue or binding at the ring gear. If it is high(<11), then you may be looking at an internal solenoid issue. If there is zero voltage, then you have a bad battery cable.

 

So turns out the battery was bad. I'm assuming it was for a bit even though it was only 13 months old. The original solenoid I had changed out was not the issue. It was doing what it was supposed to by engaging the pinion, but the starter had froze up inside. The new solenoid was fine too, the reason it wasn't engaging was due to the battery being too far gone

 

Does it look like I have the solenoid wired up right?

Purple wire goes to the ignition start terminal on the keyed switch, the big red wire goes directly to the battery positive, and the other red wire goes to a fuse that bridges to the alternator post and also to the battery positive on the fuse box (painless kit)