65 Cj5 - Remove Front Drums

I stripped the first 3 lugnuts off on my 59 fc before I asked this forum how I could be so bad at removing lugnuts, I've done it a billion times. Someone suggested they could be LH...and they were right after that they came off super easy

 

A Rite of Passage on the road to True Jeepdom.

(Pro-tip ...look for the "L" on the end of each stud. And possibly a machined groove around each nut.)

 

Actually think it was you that suggested that

 

My "Rite of Passage" was with an old Rambler which was my first encounter with LH wheel studs. Noticed those "L" marks on the first Jeep I had and knew how to stay out of trouble.

 

Anyone have a dorman part number for the right wheel studs or am I going to have to break out the calipers

 

If so, it was because I learned the hard way.

 

Hello all again.

I am now going to replace the oil seals around the yoke in both differentials.

I was able to get the nut off with a pipe wrench backup and a break over bar. Now do I have to pull the yoke off with a puller?

Any recommendations on the best way to pull the yoke off?

 

Yes, you'll need a puller. It doesn't need to be super beefy. I've done it with a steering wheel puller before.

 

Perfect. Thanks for the tip.

I got the front replaced today and hope to do the rear tomorrow.

Next up... steering box clean up and new seals. Any tips for that?

 

Hello again,

A quick question for the forum....

What kind of fitting is it that goes into the bottom of the fuel tank? It appears to be some kind of flared fitting, but will any MIP thread fitting work?

I purchased a replacement tank (steel) from Kaiser Willys.

 

Should be two "fittings" one is for the flared fitting on the fuel supply line, the other is a drain and takes a pipe thread plug. The drain bung is the one which has a downward bowl shape which is where water will settle to.

You should use a steel line with flared fittings from the tank to a flex line going from frame to the fuel pump. The fuel line fitting on the reproduction tanks sold by KW and most other suppliers sometimes are difficult to get a good seal to the flared fitting. I had to file down the fittings on two of those tanks so that the flared fitting on the line would seat good enough to seal.

 

I would call it an inverted flare. Same as a brake tube fitting. A steel brake line will serve for the fuel line.

There is such a thing as a copper flare gasket, available in various sizes, for sealing flare fittings.


In the IPT drain hole, I put a ball-valve when I had the tank dry. Convenient.

 

Good idea to put a valve on the drain. I thought about using a copper gasket, but was pretty quick work to file down the fitting. One thing not to do is put sealant in there, it will eventually dislodge and clog up the line, don't ask how I know this.