Vibrations

I will add this, the shims that came with the Rough Country lift are aluminum and should be replaced with steel shims like the ones from WFO. 1.75". I used 6 degrees shims in the front to correct the caster. But I really need to replace the rear shims from aluminum to steel.
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/search.html#!sq=shims

 

I must have been on the “nice” list. These are steel. I’m thinking about putting them in front to replace the 3 degree ones I had

 

Roughly, how much did that set you back ?

 

Call Tom Woods. They'll tell you exactly.

https://4xshaft.com/collections/jeep-cj-products/products/cj-rear-drive-shaft-double-cardan

I used one in my YJ and it has been a good investment.

 

There are several options but delivered it was $479. X spline, greaseable joints and the 10 spline yoke for the T-case.
Just make sure to follow the directions on measuring for the needed length and be sure of the spline count for the T-case yoke.

 

Interesting. Someone must have corrected the use of aluminum after I ordered mine. Were they 3 degrees?

 

No, they are 8 degree

 

Ok, shims are out, and I was wrong…they are aluminum. 1 have 2 1/2 degree at the diff and 3 degree at the transfer case. The driveshaft is a whopping 21 degrees. Haven’t driven it yet, but is that excessive?

 

Yep........ AFAIK.

 

Its not so much what angle the actual drive shaft is at but what the angle is at the yokes and that the match each other and that the angle is within the ujoionts operating angle specs.

Also, the shim at the crossmember might help the rear drive line angles but it will increase the angle at the front drive line but the front is always a compromise anyway.

 

Ill be taking it for a drive tomorrow and post the results

 

Did you measure the angle at the yokes yet?

 

Yeah, that makes sense. I agree to just run it for awhile too, the jeep is still sitting high on the new springs. When they settle in the drive shaft will be pretty close to 15 degrees

 

Just a thought - have you had the shaft out and the splines apart? The two yokes MUST be synchronized.

 

No, driveshaft has always stayed put.

 

If it doesn’t work as it is now, the double cardan is the next step

 

fwiw my 5 had 4 degrees at the case and almost 5 at the rear never gave me any issues

 

Just got back…better but no cigar. It’s bearable, but now that I’m aware of it, i guess a new driveshaft is in order. Coincidentally enough, I’m going to the DMV Friday, and there’s a driveshaft shop in the area. Providence or chance ?

 

A picture would really help.