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Automatuc Compressor Drain Valve Kit

Discussion in 'The Tool Shed' started by Focker, Feb 7, 2018.

  1. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    I drilled a hole in the outside wall & ran a hose from the valve through it.
     
  2. 3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I have a 1/4 in. nylon hose on the drain line that sneaks out in the little gap at the bottom of the garage door.
     
  3. Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Since my compressor is back in the far corner of the garage, and I haven't drilled a hole through the wall for the drain hose, I drain my condensate into a big clear plastic pretzel container. I just crack the ball valve open, and at pressure, get a steady stream of rust stained water. I keep the end of the hose near the bottom of the container. After a quart or more, it starts to sputter. I shut off the valve and empty the container. Then I come back and crack the valve open a little wider (with the end of the hose back in the container) to blow off the remaining moisture.
    -Donny
     
  4. givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    How big of a tank do you have? I drain my 2 gallon pancake compressor after use, but that's a whole different animal than my 80 gallon!
     
  5. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    80
     
  6. givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    So, just to continue this conversation, wouldn't a drastic change in pressure also create moisture?

    My 80 gallon hardly ever kicks on unless I'm using it for an extended period, and I only seem to get a cup or less of rusty water weekly. I've seen moisture buildup in my empty compressor too, which leads me to believe it's inevitable.

    Once this one rusts enough to have a pinhole, it's probably time to upgrade or rebuild the pump and motor anyways!
     
  7. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    The air is hot from compression, and I'd guess the cooling of the air when you shut down would induce some additional condensation. The vapor pressure of water gets lower as the temperature goes down (cold -> dry). When the compressor is running, the higher pressure of the air lowers the saturation limit (dew point) and forces the water vapor in the air to condense. I would expect this to be a much larger effect than cooling.
     
  8. GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    yup, same way I do it.
     
    PeteL likes this.
  9. Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Must be nice to live in such a dry location. I've drained my condensate 2-3 times a day when I'm sandblasting, with a quart or more each time. Temperature and humidity!
    -Donny
     
  10. GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    Which state are you in? I drain mine about once a year or when the air coming out the hose gets wet, usually not a problem at least for air tools, sandblasting and painting I could see being a different story and needing a dryer in line.
     
  11. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    The air coming out of the hose is always wet. Try aiming it at a cold surface and you'll see the condensate.
     
  12. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Update.

    * Remember...I would drain my compressor after use...But changing my routine after starting this thread.

    I had to use the compressor the other day. I started it up with the drain opened to release any moisture. After the compressor turned off, I drained the moisture again. I turned off the power and walked away leaving the tank under pressure. Today I came out to the garage and popped open the drain...No moisture! I know moisture is at it's greatest after the compressor cycles, but leaving mine under pressure is creating less moisture due to not filling up an 80 gallon tank every time I want to use it. I still have 120PSI left in the tank.

    Thanks guys! :clap:
     
    Danefraz, PeteL, timgr and 2 others like this.
  13. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Keep in mind that I am usually over shop air and compressors.
    With that said , you are not supposed to drain condasate on the ground because of the oil that may be in it.

    On larger systems I try to minimize the amount of air being released by a “blow down” as it equals real money in electric use.

    May want to look into low loss drains
     
  14. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    My employer in Ft Lauderdale wanted bone dry air with very little investment.

    I had a 25 Hp Quincy recip and A 25 Hp hydrovane both with an aftercooler and refrigerated dryer...... the auto drains would look like a high pressure gatden hose.
    They also insisted on 120 Psi line pressure to compensate for poor fixture design.
     
  15. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Hmmm - about every 6 to 9 months I drain mine... rarely get even a couple table spoons of moisture.

    I just let mine blow across the shop floor. So little water its usually dry by the time the 80 gal tank empties.
     
  16. Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I have a ~30g Quincy roller. A few years ago, the drain was full, trickled out of drain. Took for ever.

    Let the pressure off, opened tank caps, rinsed inside with a high pressure sprayer, recapped, and then repressured.

    Used the air to further dry, now flowed good out of drain petcock.

    I drain it when i think of it. Sounds like something to do this weekend. Might look at a ball valve drain config.

    Great discussion.