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Front Hub Locks, Loose Again?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 70cj5134f, Feb 1, 2019.

  1. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Well, okay, but don't wait until the threaded holes get wallowed out and then will never hold tight.
     
    70cj5134f likes this.
  2. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Mine got wallowed out. I used a combination of studs and bolts where i opened up the wallowed holes to the OD of the studs and used high strength thread locker. Mine get used all the time I drive my jeep as they are on the full float rear d44.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2019
    Tom_Hartz likes this.
  3. 70cj5134f

    70cj5134f Member

    Maybe why mine keep loosening? Might have started to wallow?
    I'll keep an eye on, until I can stud them!
    Thanks all.
     
  4. cayenne

    cayenne Member

    Well I take back my recommendation. Went to go repack bearings and all but 2-3 had sheered off inside hub on both sides. I have a full float rear, which I understand is more abusive on these....but it was disappointing.

    Looks like I am going the stud route as well..after I try to get the broken ends out.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  5. Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  6. Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  7. cayenne

    cayenne Member

    Well, here I am again missing several "warn" brand studs on my rear lockouts despite torqueing them to spec and checking after some miles. One side is fine. The other (the one that has always made a clicking/growling noise in low speed / high stress situations) is the one with the issue.

    I haven't checked to see if they are broken off inside the hub or not yet...I am going to have to figure out what to sacrifice to the jeeps gods before I check.
     
  8. Jw60

    Jw60 That guy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I typically offer a gallon of gear oil to the shop floor then i have to roll around in it like a pig to get out.
     
  9. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Clean good condition threaded holes and using thread locker is key. I’ve had a full floater with external hubs for around 25 years and once I figured out to do this never had another problem. I also use nylon locking nuts to hold the locking hubs in place.
     
    Tom_Hartz and Lockman like this.
  10. mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

  11. Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Not sure how this is spelled , but the ' Nord ' style washers from McMaster - Carr is also the way to go. Along with Thread Locker ...... They've held very tight for me ?
    https://www.mcmaster.com/91074a331rd
     
  12. jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Last edited: Apr 19, 2022
  13. Tom_Hartz

    Tom_Hartz Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Same set up on my Jeep and never a problem front or rear.
     
  14. duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Yup, we have had this discussion before. If you look closely at your hubs, you will note that there aren't any threads in the first 1/4" of those bores. It is really important that whatever fastener you use has a solid shank going into that recess, be it bolts or studs. I've gone to ARP's 8740 bolts that torque to 45 ft-lbs and just use thread locker on them. Like Nick noted, the hub threads need to be CLEAN. Run a plug tap in them.

    These are what I'm using on the full float drive flanges.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I used the same bolts on my new full floater but left the washers off (those bolts have tappered seats) since the axle flanges were counter sunk.
    [​IMG]

    I made the studs for the front hubs out of grade 8 bolts. The bottom of the blue tape is the lockout hub/wheel hub interface.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    timsresort, 3b a runnin and Norcal69 like this.
  15. scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    timsresort and Lockman like this.
  16. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I did the exact ARP bolts from Duffer's recommendation last year. I cleaned the threads with a tap, flushed them with brake cleaner, used red loctite, and torqued to 45 ft-lb. I have had no issues since:
    [​IMG]
     
    timsresort, duffer and Rubicloak like this.
  17. cayenne

    cayenne Member

    I appreciate all the options and can’t remember if I used thread locker or not last time. The nuts weren’t nylocs but were the aviation locks that have the little divots. The threads should have been pretty darn clean after having all the broken bolts removed from the prior time. I’ll report what I find and which way I go.
     
    Lockman likes this.
  18. cayenne

    cayenne Member

    Just to follow up on this: I can confirm the studs that warn sells are junk. 5 sheared on driver rear and 4 sheared in passenger. They neck down in between the threads and I think that allows some movement and they work harden or something.

    I am going with the arp bolts and nord locks this time….I hope third times the charm.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  19. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    I’d look at the thread holes in your hubs very close and check a tap fits snug in them. If not probably worn out now or before contributing to your woes.
     
  20. Madeline3b

    Madeline3b Optimized for analog

    Gland studs of the proper length, and Stover nuts for the win! I have never had a hub come loose in 30 yrs.