Dana 27a Issue - Knuckle Bearings

So, Also just received back from the Transmission shop my front end. I went to start putting the knuckles back on and went to install the new bearing races and could not get them seated flush either. Confirmed that they are seated all the way down. Anyone ever have issues with bearing races from various manufacturers not fitting correctly? Think I should try different brand?

 

Again, compare the old parts with the new parts. The shop should have done this. You're really in a tough spot if you can't do your own work on an old car like this. Nobody has your interests at heart more than you.

My thoughts on this went on for a bit... maybe they will be useful.

I have encountered bearings that were represented to fit but wrong. Not mis-boxed, but specifically characterized as fitting but wrong. Same part re-ordered, and also wrong. In the distant past, some transcription worker took the factory manuals and printed listings and typed them in to a computer - mistakes occur, and there's no one checking these listings but you. Your best route is to get the original Jeep part number for the bearing and cross it to the manufacturers listings. Check that more than one supplier identifies this bearing as a replacement, and that you can cross between the manufacturers and get the same result. Compare the new parts to the old parts before you turn them over to the shop. Did you trust the shop to buy the replacement parts? You should at least specify prior approval of the parts before they are installed. Get a vernier caliper, and measure the parts before you approve them. This is a pain for the shop, but you are paying them, not the reverse.

 

If the transmission shop did the work on your transmission, I'd be scared. You need to find a better shop.

 

Tim's advice is spot on. I had a lot of trouble with my front axle tube "ears" that led me to sourcing a new tube at JW Jeep as the "ears" were bent and the holes for the races were out of round. I kept all the old parts and verified that the new races were the same size as the ones that came out of both before I knocked them into the new tube. I used Timken #11520 IIRC, but as Tim said measure these as well against your old ones prior to install. They should sit flush in the "ears" as this will effect the preload of the kingpin bolts / studs when you torque them to spec of (from memory) 35 ft-lbs to get your rotational torque of ~12-16 lbs with a spring scale.

 

I prefer Timken bearing anyway. Especially the old ones. The old races are gone, no more comparing so I will order the Timkens and compare to the SKF. I remember checking the old ones and they were nice and flush along the knuckle.

Thanks all.
Bob

 

I would mention - every reputable shop should give you back every part they replace (except for something disposable like an oil filter). Up to you whether you chuck them in the trash or save them. They might ask and you can tell them to discard the parts, but if you don't, they should be in a clean box or bag in the car when you pick it up.

 

X2

 

I'm not home right now, but should be back bt Tuesday. I have a set of original Timkens in a bag I can measure for you.
-Donny

 

As long as you use matching bearing/race from the same maunfacturer, I have never had any issues with fitment. Timken are now made in China thanks to the NAFTA agreement signed during the Clinton years.

 

NAFTA had nothing to do with China. It was an agreement between USA, Canada and Mexico.

 

My bad!

 

The timken kingpin bearings should cross reference to some Harley swing arm bearings. I only needed cones but this should help.

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-Taper...Ft&pd_rd_i=B071V5KTQ3&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_1_5_dc

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-Taper...20&qid=1595213345&sprefix=timken+11520&sr=8-4

 

I appreciate that. I did order the Timkin 11520 and they sit nearly flush with the knuckle. The slight difference maybe from removing rust is that area as well. I greatly appreciate the offer though.

Thanks!