'65 Rubicon Rig

Very nice, I like the tapered curve.

 

Had a little time to get the cover tacked, and test fit.

Welded, painted, ready to go in tomorrow.

 

Tim, couple question….did this bracket come with the kit from American shifter?
And did you get the 11” or 16” handle?

 

Yes the bracket came with it. It accepts the cables, the handle, and has the ratchet mechanism. I got the 16" handle, it is a little long, but has great leverage. I was afraid the 11" would not have enough leverage. The down side is the release button is on the top of the handle, and in my first mock up, I couldn't get my thumb past the bottom of the dash while releasing it. So I lowered it on the trans. One way to solve it would be use the Lokar (pistol grip) handle, so you're not trying to push a button from the top, but very expensive, like double.

 

Merry Christmas everyone, I hope Santa was good to you, he brought me this, a reminder of summer days with the windshield down, odd fire idling along, and the smell of 90 weight.

Nick and I had a chance to finish up the parking brake and cover and boots. We pulled it out of the garage on this nice day and checked it all out. The boots fit nicely and it is a reach to the brake, but not bad.

And one more shot of Sierra out and about, we do still have stuff to do on this jeep, but nothing critical, and I want to get started on my 3B project that I have been accumulating parts for.

 

Okay, how do we all get a copy of that sign? Hmmmm?

 

Thank you, ordering mine in the morning, then maybe I can finally cross this off my to-do list.

 

I finally got a hold of an elf who gave this info
https://www.etsy.com/shop/LiztonSignShop?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=728826328

 

I think my SM420 is in the early group. This is from Novak:

• 1947-1953:
  1. No ribs on the case
  2. Grooved worm on the input shaft instead of neoprene seal
  3. Synchro rings all differ from each other. 1st-2nd synchro ring is bronze
  4. Weep hole at 6 o'clock on the bearing retainer snout
  5. Six digit casting number on the case, usually like "59xxxx" e.g., 591665.
• 1954-1963:
  1. Same as previous but uses a neoprene input oil seal
  2. No weep hole at 6 o'clock on the bearing retainer snout
• 1964-1967: Same as previous except
  1. 1st-2nd synchro ring is aluminum and 3rd-4th synchro rings are identical to each other
  2. Seven digit casting number usually like "37xxxxx", "38xxxxx" or "39xxxxx"
• 1968-1981: Military Con-Diesel version. Features the strongest case and optimized internals. Usually equipped with unique top cover, but can be converted to standard top-shift control.

I have never used the late case with the ribs, and didn't realize that affected the yoke size. Have you mocked it up? I have a bunch of SM420's (in various states of completeness) if you need something. I am not aware of any differences between 2wd and 4wd cases, if any, because I think they were all divorced.

 

Tim
What are you doing to the B?
Jay

 

Immediate (this winter) needs are new springs (broke one last summer), all bushings, longer shackles, Teralow in the 18, overdrive, swing out tire carrier. Next year's wish list is new frame, possible body stretch, and seats that don't beat me up. That's all. I think I'll start a new thread.

 

Time for some updates on Sierra. We are still looking at steering. The box that's in it is a big bore Saginaw with 3-1/2 turns lock to lock, and hydo assist. I haven't done the math to figure out the actual ratio, but during the ECJ5 run, we both noticed the 3 turn box is definitely faster, and subsequently harder to turn, than the box in Woodstock, which is a 4-1/4 turn, small bore box. This, along with the fact that it doesn't have the big stock steering wheel, makes the steering pretty quick for our liking.

I dug around and found that I had the desired box in my parts. The 5691676 casting box is what I have always kept my eyes out for. It was used in a lot of GM mid sized cars and 60's Wagoneers (where I found this one). This is the Saginaw 800 series 4-bolt mount, 4-1/4 turn, small bore, inverted flare fitting, 36 spline x 13/16" shaft box that fits and works so well in a jeep. Of note, the casting number is not tied to the ratio, or turns lock to lock. That has to be verified by hand.

Manufactured on the 169th day of 1968, by my research.

This is going to get a full rebuild, a port and tap for the hydro assist, so I blasted the outer before opening it up. Then when it's done, it will be easy to paint.

 

Thanks to you I got the same box as Woodstock, still working on finishing the setup but hope to have it finished before the new year! Good luck with the rebuild!

 

Thanks, I was wondering how yours was coming along. Rubicon will be here before we know it, so I try to chip away at the projects this time of year.

 

Time to dive into this. First, I marked the adjuster nut, lock ring and case to show where it was tightened to. I will put it back to this tightness when it's done.

Loosen the adjuster nut to hand tightness with a spanner wrench.

Run a punch into the casting hole to get the big snap ring out of the groove on the front cover.

Center the steering, counting turns, so the pitman shaft is centered and will be able to clear the housing. Remove the 4 cover bolts and push the shaft out.

With a pair of vise grips on the input shaft, turn the input CCW and the rack piston will push the end cap out. I have it tilted back so any fluid or ball bearings won't roll out.

 

Watching intently.

 

I have done a Ford gear but not a saginaw. One of those things I have no interest in doing again. Pumps are no problem though.

 

If I'm in the right mood, I like doing new things. It definitely looks more intimidating than it is. And of course cost is also a driving factor. I used to send these to West Texas Offroad for a rebuild and port and tap, but that has gotten expensive. ($400-ish).