Fuel Tanks - Steel Or Polyethylene?

They may have a way to get a one day or one week temp tag. You can get 7 day temp tags in Texas for a few dollars to allow street operation legally.

 

Don’t know if this situation would fit within these guidelines but....here’s a link to getting a temporary operating permit in Tn.

https://tnclerks.zendesk.com/hc/en-...rary-Operation-Permits-TOPs-?mobile_site=true

 

Thanks guys,

I may need to look into getting the temporary permit, I have a notarized bill of sale from the executor of the estate whom I bought the Jeep from, I have the 1968 title, and I have the paperwork where the owner signed the Jeep over to the car dealer when he traded it in on a new Buick. The car dealer never registered the Jeep, just used it on his used car lot as a tender.

I just got back in from the first night run of the Jeep. I drove it down to my barn and out around the back fields, mainly just for fun, but also wanted to try out the lights, which haven't been turned on since 1979. Lights worked fine. I put it in 4X4 and went splashing through a creek, and through some hills back there. It really runs great, and is a lot of fun to drive.

 

Tried to interest the wife in a late night run around the back fields, but she said it was time to go to bed.

She was more fun in her fifties.

 

My Wife won't even get in my Jeep anymore, that's OK with me and Peggy, our dog, she likes Shotgun anyway.

 

Here in NH a police officer will come to your location. Have you asked about that option?

 

Wish Texas was alittle easier in that regard. I have a M416 trailer I need to get a VTR68A signed off on so I can register it. When I asked how I could get the trailer there legally they suggested I put the M416 on a bigger trailer and haul it there.............."Ok, do you have a bigger trailer I can borrow?" Then for the past 2 weeks every business day I've been calling the two designated numbers that our county uses for VTR-68A inspections (both an hour away and not even in our county), no one answers and I still haven't got anyone to return my phone calls.

 

In the past the county sheriff department would send an officer out to do a VIN verification, and my brother-in-law was a county deputy, but they quit doing that in this county a few years ago. The DMV has an officer that does it out in the parking lot.

There is a shopping center that is not too far from the DMV, I will just trailer it there and drive the Jeep over there.

After I removed it I found the leak in the steel tank. There was a place in the left rear corner that showed bare rusty metal on the seam. Looking at it I think the paint they used was all that kept it from leaking for the two months it had been in the jeep. After it dries out good I may fix that leak, but I think I will keep the MTS tank in the Jeep, and just hold onto the steel one until I find someone who wants it.

After I had already ordered the MTS tank I noticed that Debella has replacement steel tanks stamped "OLAP" which is a Canadian company. Had I seen those earlier I would have tried one.

 

Had a question. Did you run a rubber fuel line from the top of the tank to the filter, and from the filter to the old fuel line that was under the tank?

 

The tank came with a hose barb fitting so I have "temporarily" used a short piece of rubber fuel line from that to the filter. This will soon be replaced with a steel line, when I remember to get a different fitting.

The rest of my system is all new steel line, with exception of the flex line from frame to pump, and that has brass fittings. I try to avoid rubber line with clamps in my fuel system.

So far, the tank has been perfect.

 

I just received my new and new steel fuel line. Thanks for the info!

 

What’s to stop me from installing the pick up on the bottom of the tank (poly) , just like God originally designed it?

 

Difficulty working with polypropylene? If there is a bung and plug molded into the bottom from the factory, no problem. I don't think it's practical if it's single thickness plastic where you want the tap. Typically poly tanks like that shed any kind of adhesive. Repairs and changes are done with hot blade plastic welding, pretty sure.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=which+plastic+for+plastic+gas+tanks+

 

Good to know. It was molded into the top. I’d have to drill and tap the bottom hole. Looks like I need to see if there are any special adhesives that stick.

 

I think I recall seeing something being sold for that, but plastic welding would be far more certain, IMHO. Firetruck bodies, for instance, are largely custom-built with poly now.

 

This is the same material they make Tupperware from. Any adhesive you try could be tested on some kitchenware. I would also test for resistance to gasoline. Realize at the bottom of the tank, it's immersed in gasoline 100% of the time, under slight pressure.

Where did you buy the tank? I think that all of these tanks come from MTS today. Suggest you call them and see what they advise. http://www.mtscompany.com/

JMO - it would be foolish to put an additional hole the bottom of this tank. Good way to ruin it. I would get the right parts for the tank, and reroute the fuel line.

 

x2. Why ask for trouble?

 

I had a poly fresh water tank that had the drain bung stripped out. It was already an area of 1/4" thickness so I took a hole saw to a 1/2" thick poly cutting board. I then took the 1/2" thick slug and shimmed it in the hole saw so it was flush and I could use a screw in the side to key it in the hole saw.
That big mess went in the biggest drill I could borrow and I friction welded it to the broken tank.
The drag on that drill was intense and hot melty plastic was right above me.

It worked well enough to sell the camper but I wouldn't do it for fun.

 

Has anyone recently had a metal tank relined? My M38A1 tank is looking pretty cruddy on the inside. It's an original style under seat tank so I think it's 18 gallons. I wonder about the cost.