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Fiberglass For Trans Floorpan Cover?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Nov 2, 2022.

  1. neohic

    neohic Gentleman Jeepist

    I was thinking the same thing. As a metal worker, I’d be inclined to follow through with making most of it out if sheet metal. Not being afraid of a sewing machine, I’d think making essentially a big shifter boot with multiple peaks for each shifter would look great too. A sturdy marine vinyl would work fine. Prototype with a cheap fabric.
     
    Ol Fogie and Fireball like this.
  2. C-dubb

    C-dubb 1961 CJ5 restomod

    Built mine out of plywood and then fiberglassed inside and out.
     
  3. termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    If I did that the mice would eat it within a month:rolleyes:

    Looks like your on the right track.
    Might take a start from the top and bottom approach and work your way into the middle.
     
  4. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Think this will work....its not designer stylish....still lots of work to finish it up with welds and paint etc. Thinking I probably cannot cleanly weld the thin sheet metal along the butt seams without burning through - so will probably create some strips to overlap the seams and 'spot' weld....I tried to build overlap flaps into the pieces so I wouldn't have butt-seams, but it got too complicated and beyond my ability, so I just made puzzle pieces to fit the spaces. I am also thinking of stripping front floorpan to fresh metal and trying to roll in some sort of heavy duty paint/bedliner:ninja:/sound deadener type stuff that would also go over the cover and sort of cover up my ugly edges etc - no plans for carpet or anything like that for now.
    [​IMG]
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  5. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Looks good! Weld thin sheet metal like that with hundreds of overlapping dots. Don't do continuous beads. Keep moving your dot making around so any given area of work doesn't heat up too much.
     
    Ol Fogie likes this.
  6. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Maybe....that is what I did with various body panel repairs, but that stuff is 18g, and even then its a bit tricky - this stuff is 22g. Where the seam is tight, its probably doable, but I've got a few 2-3mm gaps that even with a copper spoon behind it, not sure I can bridge the gap and make it look okay. Also, there are a lot of seams - that is a lot of dots and grinding - lots of time. Thinking its way faster to just overlay the joints and spot through weld with pre-drilled holes.
     
    Fireball, dozerjim and melvinm like this.
  7. dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    That looks really nice (y)
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  8. SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    As a complete non welder I would overlay the seams and use a series of screws or pop rivets to assemble. I think screws would give it an 'industrial' look. Of course all of the Phillips Heads should have the drive slots aligned.
    I need to check my birth certificate, my middle name might be Bubba.
     
  9. 3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    X2
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  10. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Ol Fogie likes this.
  11. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    I like the way you left some space at the back to sink a couple of cup holders in there :D

    upload_2022-11-16_15-58-54.png
     
  12. Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Good job James. That tunnel cover looks great.
     
    cmcnev and FinoCJ like this.