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Show me yer V8 Jeep Flat Fenders!

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by sammy, May 14, 2010.

Page 5 of 7
  1. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    I was wondering about that Sammy. To keep it "old school" you might want to look for an old square-base 4-barrel intake from the same vintage as the 283 ('57-'64 or so) that used the old Rochester 4GC. That would give you the front fill tube/breather and the period-correct carb. The 4GC is also just about indestructible, and when tuned right it runs like a r*aped ape! For a little more oomph there are 2x4 intakes out there that take two Rochesters, but they are bringing more coin these days...

    <edit> Apparently 2 4GCs won't fit a stock 2x4 manifold, you'd need to run 2 WCFBs, and that's going to get into some bucks. :oops: A single Quadrajunk intake and carb should be more affordable and they're pretty decent off-road as well.

    On the other hand, you could prolly find an old 2x3 manifold and drop a trio of 2GC's on it with a progressive linkage setup.

    Or you could go megasquirt and... :twisted:
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2010
    w3srl, Sep 5, 2010
    #81
  2. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    I ran an older Edelbrock SP2P on one of my Blazers that had the front oil fill.. Great intake..
     
    Patrick, Sep 5, 2010
    #82
  3. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Last edited: Sep 5, 2010
    w3srl, Sep 5, 2010
    #83
  4. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    sammy, Sep 8, 2010
    #84
  5. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

    should be fine sammy, thinking the Qjet was like 800cfm or in that ball park
     
    kaiser_willys, Sep 8, 2010
    #85
  6. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

    do you need intake casting #'s? I have both the square bore for a holley and if i can find it the spread bore for the Qjet both have the filler tube in the front. thinkig 1968 was the last year of production with the filler in the intake, 1967 defenitely had it
     
    kaiser_willys, Sep 8, 2010
    #86
  7. avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    If it were me and I had the opportunity, I would buy the a quadrajet style manifold with the front filler. It is kind of getting the best of both worlds. Quadrajets are great offroad carbs and give excellent throttle response as well as off camber fuel control that will dam near let an engine run upside down. You will also get the classic oil filler look. That edelbrock into you show aught to work well too but a 700 cfm Holley would definitely not be on my list of carbs to use on a 283. I would look for a 500 or 600 cfm Edelbrock or maybe 470 cfm holley truck avenger or possible the 570 street avenger. A smaller carb on a 283 will help give crisper throttle response and need little to no jetting. I am sure you could get it to run on the 700 but getting it to run great is another story.
    Greg
     
    avmechanic, Sep 8, 2010
    #87
  8. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Yes, a 700 will be too much carb for even a warmed-over 283.

    A 283ci engine operating at 5000 RPM (being generous here) and at 80% volumetric efficiency (also being generous) can only use about 409 CFM worth of carburetor. Not saying that a 700 CFM crb won't work, but you'll be MUCH happier with a 450-470 CFM unit, it will have a better throttle response and it will not bog like that 700 will.

    BTDT. ;)
     
    w3srl, Sep 8, 2010
    #88
  9. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Well, I paid too much for the 700..... :D

    So if I sold it for profit, I supposed I could find a smaller carb? Or trade someone?

    Oh, $70 is what I gave for it R)
     
    sammy, Sep 8, 2010
    #89
  10. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    I'd go out on a limb and ask $71 for that Holley and see if you find any suckers I mean takers...





    :D
     
    Patrick, Sep 8, 2010
    #90
  11. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    new carbs are 'spensive.... used carbs are kind of so, and gambling on if they work or not. I dunno how to rebuild em.
    Found an Edelbrock C3B for $100 shipped. Has the front filler on it as well. May sell the Torker II to a buddy and some other crap and buy at least the intake.
     
    sammy, Sep 9, 2010
    #91
  12. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Also got an air cleaner and yes the hood ridge BARELY touches it (how's that for planning, HA!)

    And my alternator bracket came. Speedway motors, puts it off the intake and the water pump. Now I'll have to have my inlet on the radiator moved over to the other side....And I'll probably make some custom hoses and pipes for the fluid.
    [​IMG]
     
    sammy, Sep 9, 2010
    #92
  13. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Looks good Sammy..
    I never understood those long valve cover studs/ bolts/ wing nuts/ chingaderas...
     
    Patrick, Sep 9, 2010
    #93
  14. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Yeah...... they looked a lot shorter at yearwood. I like the way they attach (set screws) but they're all I had for the time being.... Prolly just replace them with nuts.

    Theres the possible intake
    [​IMG]
     
    sammy, Sep 9, 2010
    #94
  15. Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Old race engines used solid lifters for a bit more power, and they required adjustment quite often------like every race for some engines. Old style heads had pressed in rocker studs-----and they did not stay still, thus the need for frequent adjustment.

    The "T" hold downs make removing the valve covers easier, and faster.

    As with so many things from the real racing world, it filtered down to the street crowd.

    Personally, I prefer to use 1 1/4" allen set screws, as studs, locktited into the head-----then use a star washer and nut to hold the cover down. The gasket will not get out of alignment with this setup.
     
    Mike S, Sep 9, 2010
    #95
  16. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    They're allen set screws.... Forgot to use locktite, and I'll probably get washers and nuts to fit. Or the funky looking ARP valve cover bolts...Naaaw.
     
    sammy, Sep 9, 2010
    #96
  17. Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    ^This.
    When I was running a solid lifter cam they were handy just because I had to get into the top end to check/adjust valve lash from time to time.
     
    Corveeper, Sep 9, 2010
    #97
  18. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    When I ran solids the "hot" setup was those silly long chrome bolt thingies with the press-on winged head. In theory they were great, but the heads always came loose and fell off so you had to keep 1-2 of them in the toolbox so you could get the valve covers off.

    Back in the day I used 5" long 1/4-20 bolts with a nut threaded all the way on, and then screwed down into the top of the head. Cheap, the heads didn't fall off, and I could use a 7/16" wrench to twist the head of all the bolts and then spin them off by hand very quickly. I think I had about 3 bux in hardware in the whole setup.
     
    w3srl, Sep 10, 2010
    #98
  19. 54cj3b

    54cj3b Member

    This made my day nice overflow can:D

    [​IMG]
     
    54cj3b, Sep 12, 2010
    #99
  20. Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    That's a thing of beauty right there.:beer:
     
    Long&Low, Sep 12, 2010
    #100
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