Torque Snubber

Okay as I have indicated in a previous thread I am transplanting a T-18/Dana 20 from a 1974 CJ5 into another 1974 CJ5 that previously had a T-14/Dana 20. The fitup has gone smoothly and having the entire drive train from the donor vehicle has made the process fairly simple.

The only thing I cannot fathom is the torque snubber.
The T-14/Dana 20 configuration uses a snubber directly adjacent to T-Case mount.
The T-18/Dana 20 configuration uses a snubber mounted on an L-bracket attached to the two holes in the Dana 20 next to the front output shaft.

The problem is I cannot determine where the tie point for the other end of the snubber rod is. There is no hole in the donor crossmember where it might logically tie.

Can anyone tell me what I missing here?

Thanks

 

Here is where I moved mine to.

 

I was trying different things today to see if I could use the T-14 mounting hardware which would have resulted in a similar configuration to what you have there. The problem is the T-14 plate hits the D20.

I have been scouring web sites today to see if I could find a picture of a stock 74 configuration and I think there is a bracket that mounts using the same bolts as the crossmember. I'm guessing it replaces a couple of the shims that stack between the frame and the crossmember....

 

You can try rotating your crossmember 180°... your frame may have extra holes that match if you slide it towards the rear.... or you can brace the t case up and unbolt the cross member and modify or mock one up and build a good one. Alot of frames had predrilled holes to match up to the few combinations available to that time period.

 

I can see the L-shaped bracket that you are describing in the parts book. The bracket connects to a short snubber bushing that goes through another L-shaped bracket that is mysteriously suspended in mid-air in the drawing. There is no long rod or such. Now, all '74s use the same frame and same crossmember, so if the ghost bracket originates from either of those, it should be present on both Jeeps.

I would go ahead with the T-18 parts and try to make them work.

 

That ghost part on the drawing you refer to kept puzzling me as well. I went back to my parts box that I saved all the ancillary parts and brackets I pull from the original Jeep and sorted through them. There was a bracket there that I was sure was part of a steering stabilizer setup (had a hole in it for a rubber bushing). Looking more closely I discovered that it had two holes in it that matched up to the two in the frame that the cross member bolts through. With that bit of intelligence in hand I went back to the parts book (the frame section) and looked closely at the "cross member shims". Now that one knows what one is looking for, look close at one of the shims in the drawing there is one that is different (sort of Z shaped). The book only depicts shims on the drivers side (there are shims on both side actually) (this one mounts on the passenger side). Sure enough that was it. (removed two shims and put in the bracket in their place) I fabricate a through bolt with 1/2 inch all thread, four washers, rubber bushings and nuts. Works like a champ..........

 

FWIW...I agree with the photo above. I did the same thing. It worked perfectly.

 

Yay. Glad you got it straightened out.