Exhaust System For 1960 Cj6

I've had problems going either route. The last few I welded until the metal got too thin. Most of the exhaust shops around here weld them. You need to be sure your hanger system is correct so it won't twist apart. Many repairs on my Volvos. Bad design.

 

Just my $0.02, but I prefer to weld and flange my exhaust, just haven't had good luck with clamps over the years.

 

Walck's told me I'd have to cut one of the pipes in the kit in order to put the 20" section in the right place. What should I use to cut? What other tools will I need besides a regular socket wrench?

 

Hacksaw.

Don't take this the wrong way, but if you need advice like this, maybe you should take the kit to a shop and have the kit installed. A muffler shop that does custom work will make quick work of this.

Did they tell you what size the pipe is? We can't find parts to help you if you do not tell us what size the pipe is.

You need to weld-in the pipe, or use a pipe with slip fittings and exhaust clamps.

 

You're right of course, but I like to learn hands on. Luckily this isn't my daily driver. But I would like to know what I'm getting into before I get started. If welding is the way to go then I'll bow out and take it to a shop. Walck's didn't know about the pipe size and it hasn't been delivered here yet.

 

Ok, when you get the system, measure the OD of the pipe. It will be some inch fraction, like 1 1/2" or 1 3/4".

Once you cut the pipe, you will have two bare ends to connect to. You will need to weld or put a slip fitting on each end, then two clamps. It would be better to have your local muffler shop make the 20" pipe for you. You will need 20" long not including the ends, and two clamps. The shop will have a machine that enlarges the ends of the pipe so that it slips over the cut end of the pipe in the kit (the "slip fitting"). That would be the neatest way. You could also use a straight piece of 20" long pipe and two connectors, like shown here - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41957/overview/ Then you would need 4 clamps.

 

Will do. Will one extra hanger do it?

Is it easy enough to disconnect the current pipe from the engine?

 

Better someone who's worked on the F134 answer that.

 

If you use a hacksaw or the like to cut the tube an old trick is to use a worm screw type hose clamp as a guide to cut it straight.

 

Seriously, hacksaws?
JK,
I probably have four of them around and many replacement blades.
Another method is to use a piece of paper about 6" wide and something like 12" long and wrap it around the pipe and get it nice and tight. Mark a line around the edge with a Sharpie and cut away. A file is also handy to clean up the burrs after you cut the pipe.

 

I don't like exhaust work. If you use clamps, things are crimped and rusted together and you have to beat it apart. and if you weld it, you have to cut it apart. I can see how flanges would work better.